My 1939 Ford PU Build

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Boltbreaker

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 25, 2008
Messages
468
Location
Palos Heights, ILLINOIS
I am nee deep into my 1939 Ford PU build but never started a thread of how I got here. My goal is to build a traditional/rat style hot rod. I basically want a kick but little toy:D
Back track to Oct 2007. So I bought a cab up in Wisconsin and then bought a donar 69 Galaxie that ran like a raped ape here in Chicago. It has a 351W motor, FMX trans, and 9" rear end. I parted out the rest of the car to get my money back out of it and help the restoration guys.
I will keep posting pics in the thread till I get up to this weeks progress.

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Cool, so this is like a prequel. Build pics are always fun to look at. Keep em coming.

I wanted to start from the beginning so as to help the new guys out. When I started I was clueless on how to get from a body to a driver. Maybe they wont measure once and cut three times like I did at times:D:D Heck I'm still an amature at this.
Brian
 
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Once I got the Galaxie stripped I brought the cab, drive train and rear end assembly out to Voo Doo Larry Kustoms to get a frame made and the top chopped. I did not understand the geometry and didnt have the welding skills yet to make a safe frame. So I had them do it. While it was there at his shop I had him take about 4.5" out of the top.
I picked up my front rims off of ebay and the rear coil overs as well. I bought a tube axle, spring, and radious rods from Speedway.

Larry did a great job chopping the top and fabricating the frame.
I just wish I would have found these websites sooner and learned how to do it myself. The truck sat for months til I saved up enough money to get started again.
Fast forward to this:

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I bought a 35 grill shell and mounted it, and picked up a pair of Model T headlights and also mounted them.
 
Some more pics and info from the build (about 2mos old).
I installed 1940 Ford brakes up front.
The steering box got mounted. I think I have the front of the drag link bolted on the top of the steering arminstead of the bottom. I need to flip it.:eek:
Brian
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Nice beginning. I'm with Gastrick, build threads are fun to follow. Keep updating as you go.
 
I like how they angled up the front instead of a Z, kinda wish I had seen that before I built mine. Oh well, next one!

Sean
 
The bed was started a couple months ago and is still under construction. I needed to get the bed frame done to finish up the truck frame brackets and kick up rails. I will show those later.
After the bed frame was done I cut the side panels out of cold rolled carbon steel sheets. The framework is 1 1/2" square tube with 1/8" wall. The side sheets are made from 16 gauge steel. I had a local welding shop bend the top rails in a brake because they where so long I couldnt do it.
The bed is 49" wide, by 62" long. The bed is A little heavier than needed but I figured I could use a little extra weight over the rear tires. I also picked up a set of rear wheels from Wheel Vintique to match the 40 style fronts. The rears are 15"X8" style #14 or #16, I cant remember exactly. I cant wait to order up the Radir pie cut wide white to see how they look.
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Sorry about the back to back posts but this will bring me up to the current status of the build to date.
I welded plates onto the back of the front radius arms this weekend. I used 1/8" wall sheet and cut it out with a plasma cutter. I thought the arms didnt look beefy enough visually (in my goofy brain). I also want to drill some 1.5" speed holes in them so they look a little more hot rod. Hopefully the new holesaws will come in today and I can get started on the holes tonight.
I also picked up a different grill shell last week from a eBay seller. The new one has all the fins intact where as my old one had a bunch of fins missing. My thought on the trucks finish is to Scotchbright pad the cab, and grill shell and coat it with WD-40 so I still have the Patina but with a little preserved look.
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Nice work you are doing BB. The radius rods should look great with holes in the plates. I know a lot of guys use Gibb's oil on bare metal. I have used JB-80, which I got at a local home improvement store. It seems to work real well. Any auto parts store that carries Justice Brothers products will have it.
 
Nice work you are doing BB. The radius rods should look great with holes in the plates. I know a lot of guys use Gibb's oil on bare metal. I have used JB-80, which I got at a local home improvement store. It seems to work real well. Any auto parts store that carries Justice Brothers products will have it.

Bob,
I guess this is a newby question but is the Gibbs oil and JB-80 oil for cutting the holes in the plates or for preserving the bare metal on the cab and grill shell I mentioned? I hate to look like a dummy asking but I am getting good at it:D
 
I use it on bare metal to prevent any further rust. Gibb's is hard to get, typically you need to order a case by internet. I used way less than half a spray can of JB-80 on the roof of my Crosley wagon. It looked oily for a while but then dried out. It doesn't sit out in the rain so I'm not sure how effective it is over a long period of outdoor life. Might have to reapply occasionally. For a couple dollars you can try it on a piece of scrap metal. Oh, it might work ok as a cutting oil too.
 
I like how they angled up the front instead of a Z, kinda wish I had seen that before I built mine. Oh well, next one!

Sean

I knew the frame had to be either Z'ed or pie cut because I couldnt channel the cab. I opted for the pie cut rise look. My wife has a 36inch inseam and she would have been all scrunched in the cab.
 
Im looking for some opinions on wheather to mount my spun aluminum gas tank exposed above the bed rails or wheather I should just conceal it between the frame rails and under the tonneau cover. I looked at it both ways and I cant decide. I will post some pics I guess to help.
 

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