'34 Dodge Brothers, double build.

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I'm quite happy with the new draglink rebuild kit from Andy Bernbaum and I hadn't taken a very good picture of it the other day. [pic 1] passenger side tire and end of draglink.
One of my dreams for creating the Dodge spear was this gismo, [pic 2], but it has no throat to speak of so that's out, and so is my bead roller, because it has a deep throat but no width of throat.
I wrestled the left hand fender off, [pic 3] and tested one of the Plymouth ones on there. There are a few problems to solve, let's say. So I beat out some more dents [pic 4].
 

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I thought that I should get taking my motor a part today, I did. I took the bellhousing and transmission off.
But, those dang fenders kept beckoning me, so I welded a few cracks up and learned a wee bit about hammer welding. Some of the shot holes in the front were from a more powerful rifle and the lead reared up a bump on the back of the fender, so I tried to heat them up and tap them down as they were cooling. There are no pictures of this, ----- and there won't be any.
 
Looking Good Mac.[cl :D :cool::cool:
I learned hammer welding back in my youth when I learned to gas weld. It's still my favorite form of body metal welding but to do it in a timely fashion it really takes two. One to gas weld and one to hammer and dolly.
I was the hammer and dolly guy when I first learned, then eventually got to move over to the torch.
[P [P [P
Torchie
 
From your talk and a Gene Winfield video, I realize that I wait too long before hammering, oops.
I'm grappling with a philosophical question now. How rough should I leave this ratrod, because there's a large band of 'apparent builder quality' between 'beat to death POS' and 'too dang smooth for a ratrod'. I can't get it to the latter without body filler so probably I shouldn't try for perfect.
 
I personally don't like big dents, rips and tears. I fix these leaving them so you can they were fixed. Small dents and imperfections add character. My 28 has a few fender cracks the were crudely fixed many years ago, they will stay as patina.
 
As far as what you do to the truck....In the words of the Mighty Isley Brothers.
"It's your thing. Do want you want to do. I can't tell you. Who to sock it too."[cl :D :cool:
If any of the guys that taught me are still alive they's be his age by now. Over 90.:eek::cool:
You really need to hammer and dolly the weld/metal area while it's still almost welding hot. It's tricky by yourself unless you've got some way to hang up the lit torch while you grab your hammer and dolly.:eek:
[P[P[P
Torchie
 
Am I right that it is pointless to hammer MIG welds?


Not to hijack Mac's thread. My 2 cents on that...
Migs are much harder a weld then Gas. When a good gas/hammer weld is done there is very little grinding left to do, because you not only re stretch the metal but flatten the weld.
If you watch a video of someone like Gene Winfield do it you can see he takes the hammer, while he's doing the hammering and rubs the head of it across the weld. That way he can feel weather he needs to flatten the weld some more or not. That's the way I was taught.
When I hammer on a mig weld all it does it stretch and move the metal. Doesn't do a thing to the weld. More grinding.That's why I use easy grind wire.
Just my method.
Jump back in here dutch....I suspect you have forgotten more abut welding sheet metal then I ever knew.:eek::D :cool:
Torchie
 
Torchie, any time you guys are teaching me some 'hotrod building', or telling a good story, you're not hijacking my thread. Anyhow, I didn't do any welding today. I worked on replacing a spring hanger, loaded a tractor engine to take to a friend, and plowed snow. We aren't getting spring yet.
Oh, and I test fit that fender again and drew some more marker lines on it.
 
I personally don't like big dents, rips and tears. I fix these leaving them so you can they were fixed. Small dents and imperfections add character.


I agree, and brazing or stick welding tears leaves great character scars [cl[cl[cl

my motto is, if it flaps, or chatters, it gets fixed.
 
I like all of your advice, guys. Mostly I was fixing things to learn more about tin bashing. There was an old, four inch, hay wire weld on the drivers fender that didn't look that bad, and had character, but I had to fiddle with it. Now it has a different character. I welded up the bullet holes because they really bug me, not so much the holes but the jerk who put them there. I'd like to weld his trigger finger to any other finger.
Anyhow, I fought with the passenger side spring hanger but finally got it rebuilt. pic one.
The passenger side fender is off now. pic two.
 

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I jumped a round a wee bit today. [pic one] is the first trial run of a '57 Dodge steering wheel and column. It needs to slide down through the firewall about three inches and maybe drop down into the toe-board some.
I have both fenders off now and I think I have to bend the channel iron bracket that holds the headlights and fenders, down a bit at the insides of the fenders, and both ends should go up. This morning my brother phoned and asked if the English wheel would smooth out dents in tin on his tractor. I said I had been wondering about that, but didn't know. Well, I tried it on one of my old fenders that had lots of wrinkles and dents. It worked somewhat but I should have used the hammer and dolly first.
The passenger side wheel, drum, backing plate and spindle are off again and a plan was hatched for making the kingpin fit properly in the axle. I found five sets of new, old stock kingpins and none of them are the same size. I filled the worn axle end with the welder and now I have to hone it to the right size.
 

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