Mashup 35 Dodge PU/30 A Glass Coupe

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PA41

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 5, 2008
Messages
872
I'm in the middle of combining two builds that I was not satisfied with into one That I hope pleases me more. The first was a Glass A coupe that it seemed everyone around me liked, but it just never rang my bell--don't know why. I tore the car down and let the body sit till the floor rotted out. The other was a 35 Dodge PU--real rusty, with a long laid out stance and a Ford T bird IRS and a 1/4 elliptical front axle from a Chevy van. I welded the cab to the frame --there was nothing but a skin, so I had to build structure to it, and I got the wrong angle on the cab frame--looks broke backed. Both are built on a Dodge Minitruck frame, so they will body swap pretty easy. Heres where I started.
 

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Been admiring Gassers since I was a kid, so want to incorporate some of their styling in the 'new' car. I've been intrigued by this jacked up A coupe for years, but wanted a little more tail dragger. Also not a highboy fan. One of the few things I liked in the coupes previous life was the Turbosonic drawthrough system. Cost 60$ at a swapmeet years ago. They had a reputation for blowing up engines, and I did smoke a motor with it, but I think I've got it figured out. I originally had it in a 10-1 350, and this time I'm using the 8-1CR, 5 liter Ford. It shouldn't make much boost in that configuration. It's not intercooled, so you can't get too aggressive with it. It's from the 60s, so kinda period appropriate. looks kinda weird too, and I like weird stuff.
 

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I built the chassis for this project a few years ago when I traded into this ford IRS, and wanted to use it in a 'generic' frame that would work on an A, or a 26T or the Dodge PU I had. All bodies I have on hand, so it was sorta planned. I scrounged a number of Dodge mini truck frames because I like the way the frame pinches together and Zs up in front and stored them in my little personal junk yard.. It follows a 26T real well, and tucks under an A acceptably.
 

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I got the Dodge cut off the chassis and got the glass coupe on, and shortened up the front springs. I'm interested to see how the 1/4 elliptical work out. This is where I stopped working on the car and started working on insulating and heating/cooling half my tin shop. I'm finished with that, and am trying to get the A started up again and moved into the 'new' shop.---- I ran out of space on my internet for a few days, so will have to post the pics in 4 days.
 
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I have wanted that style of coupe since i was 12 yrs old i guess ,, the 40 ford coupe was in 2nd . I dug one of these out of a bank that had fell in on it from years of laying on its side ,,,,,dirt had washed down and inside of it over the years . It took me about a 1/2 day to dig it out and everything about 2 inches under the dirt was gone ,, I hated that , I was around 13 or 14 then
 
The A coupe is 'Iconic' . I guess we are kinda brain washed to like it. The movie didn't help much, but they chose it for the same reason--it just pushes the buttons. Yard driving it today and put it in the 'new' shop to do the details--wiring, turbo, grill etc.
 

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Took the draw through off my 'donor' and disassembled it, and stacked it on the 302 Ford. The carb mount is a complicated 2 chambered thing with some boost actuated check valves between the draw chamber and the boost chamber. The red small joint is pressure, the bigger 3" on the side is the draw side, non compressed. The turbo exhaust pipe will need stretched a little, but it will be in about the same place. The engine exhaust headers are for twin turbos, but I will pipe them together across the rear of the engine and mount the turbo on the cross pipe. I will probably build a mount/spacer plate between the engine and carb mount, as it is two stacked adapters now. Real early in the install process, but the general idea..
 

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Very interesting! Are the valves similar to a reed valve? More photos, please!

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They are little discs held with a through bolt. They were not too successful, and stopped production in the 60s. I got this one 15 years ago at a swap meet for $60--near new. He had it on a 65 chevy 327 bob truck, and it got his motor after a few miles. It looks like the Accel had some water cooling adapted in the transfer tube...I blew the head gaskets off a flat top piston 350. It ran great till about 3500 RPM and then wanted to boost way big in a hurry. If I can keep the boost down to 4-5 psi with a smaller low compression motor I think I can make it liveable, just Not a big HP adder--maybe 50 or so. Mainly a special interest thing, and they have a sweet tone--great muffler. Heres some web pics of them and how mine was on my 350.
 

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I've got one of those laying around. Never tried to use it. Saw one on a '55 Chevy a few years ago. The owner claimed he had the bugs worked out and it ran fine.
 
Made a little progress today. Replaced the carb mount with a 3" riser that also goes forward an inch over the distributor. Cut the T3 mounts off the headers and rewelded then on flat--easier to work with. Have 2"exhaust pipe to the turbo on each side, 2.5, or 3" might look better, may use that, haven't decided. Have a couple 3" 90s ordered for the vacuum side, I'll decide when they come. Was considering making the vac side tube out of 2"x3" sq with 3" attaching nipples.
 

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I've got one of those laying around. Never tried to use it.

Does the one you have have the Accel marked vac side tube like the pic? I was thinking off making a similar one and was wondering how they used water fittings. I'm not sure if they for heating the tube or cooling. They may ice up. Had a log ram manifold icing once.
 

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Thanks for the pics. (Springs on the valves?)

I can't imagine the Accel piece would be heated... no advantage to that in my mind. It's probably meant for marine applications... fresh, cold water to reduce intake temps makes better sense (to me) than heating. [S

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(Springs on the valves?)

fresh, cold water to reduce intake temps makes better sense (to me) than heating. [S

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The little fiber disc check valves are just hanging down in the boost part of the adapter with no springs. When the air fuel mix from the turbo starts it pushes the checks closed and the boosted mix is all there is. Cooling is the big deal with turbochargers, but this setup is running water to the non boosted part of the rig. Venturies in the carb changing liquid gasoline into vapor is the basis of airconditioning, and lots of cars have heated intakes. For sure hose barbs in and out on this blue one. Dunno.. I just like the looks. (Deep thinker)
 

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When I was driving with this setup, it always ran down the road totally through the turbo with at least a pound or two of boost. Pretty pleasant to drive --real torquie feeling. It loved hills, didn't know they were there. That's how industrial (tractors) use turbos. Torque enhancers. Torque is not really fast, but it is fun.
 
Got a little more done on the drawthrough install. Fabbed up a 'draw' tube for the turbo out of 2"x3" sq tube. Was going to use 3" 90 degree tubing, but it was too big, so went faactory style. Welded up a drain plate for the fuel pump flange and used one of the big 90s to straighten the exhaust a little. Installed 2 1/2" tubing for the exhaust crossover/turbo flange and got that welded up and installed. Waiting on some gaskets and water injection pump, but closing in.
 

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I was testing the boost actuated butterfly on the carb adapter, and the seals were shot. Pressurized gas/air was flowing through the actuator and back through the turbo. No wonder it was running away with itself. Might even be why I got it for $60.. Just gutted it and plugged the holes. Took out the butterfly and the piston and rod. Started pluming the oil feed/drain. Here's a good shot inside the adapter at the little round check valves.
 

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