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Old 09-09-2016, 09:06 PM
TubularFab TubularFab is offline
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Flowery Branch, GA
Posts: 42
Default 1940's International Crew Cab Diesel

Ok, I bent some tubing, welded, and cut on the firewall, so I guess I have officially started on my build. I will make no claims about the rate of work on this project - I hope it goes quickly, but if I get too busy this is the first thing that will suffer.

So, I picked up a very rusty set of 1940's International KS-5 sheet metal about 6 years ago:

I picked it up with the intent of building a rat rod, and figured it was in good enough shape to be perfect for that. My initial plan was to work the front sheet metal into a COE type nose and place the engine in the back. I was going to trim the bottom off the cab rather than do a chop (at least the internationals have a pretty low window stock!) and use the nose for legroom. However, now I have changed my mind on this for 2 reasons. First, I would be losing out on one of the coolest parts of a rod - being able to see the engine while driving. Second - the overall length of the truck was going to be longer than I wanted in order to get all the driveline in with a mid-engine design. So, I am now switching to a more conventional layout with the engine in the front.

Another major design element for this build is the seating requirement. I need to be able to seat 2 adults and 3 kids. I have 3 boys - 10, 8, and 6. My last project car was a 2 seat sports car, and every time I drove it we had battles over who got to ride in it first. It was impossible to go as a family to any kind of car show, etc without 2 vehicles. So, this build needs to haul the family. I've looked at old truck cabs stretched into a crew cab, but don't really care for the look. So I am going to try a different approach. I am going to cut the entire back out of my cab and fabricate a 68" wide, 36" long sleeper to connect to it. It will look like a period correct sleeper off a tractor trailer (though with more windows) complete with rounded corners. This will have a bench seat in it for the boys.

To mock the sleeper up I bent some 1" tubing and tacked it together in the planned dimensions. Here are pictures of the mocked-up layout:

From those pictures you might have noticed some of the other plans. I want to go dually with rather tall tires. I'm going to look into something like old style 20" truck tires, but for now will be going with typical heavy duty pickup 235-85-16" as I have a spare set of wheels and several old take-offs to play with. I have a low mileage 3.55 rear end out of a '91 F250 diesel that will be used. Since it was not a dually rear it is actually shorter, and should work well even with duals on it - and not be crazy wide.

I'm planning to keep the front end very short rather than doing the typical stretch. I just prefer the look - will probably be pushing the front axle centerline back and let the engine stick out in front. This will help give it a nice turning radius - which is important since I plan to drive it to work in the city.
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Old 09-09-2016, 09:22 PM
I-R-POPS's Avatar
I-R-POPS I-R-POPS is offline
''Rusty Mopar Slacker''
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Tome, New Mexico
Posts: 3,555

Sounds like a heck of a plan. It's always fun to include the kids.
Post lots of pics for us.




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Old 09-09-2016, 09:27 PM
53 stickfigure's Avatar
53 stickfigure 53 stickfigure is offline
Rusty Rat Rodder
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Ohio
Posts: 397

Happy to hear you will be driving it to work. Antique steel needs to be driven daily.
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Old 09-09-2016, 09:59 PM
Bamamav's Avatar
Bamamav Bamamav is offline
Rusty Rat Rodder
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Berry, Alabama
Posts: 5,000

I would use the fenders and the nose. Those old Farmalls have a great looking front end on them. You could always run without the hood if you wanted.
When you start sitting the front axle back, you can start to get the nose heavy look with a lot of engine, frame, and radiator sticking out in front of the tires. If it's not long enough for the engine you plan on using, you could always extend the front behind the tires. Look at Peterbilts for example. They have a short nose and a long nose, the difference in the hood length is behind the tires. Not counting the sloped hood aero design with the setback axle Petes. That is a different look entirely.

I like the sleeper idea. Your tubing bends look a lot like the old flat top sleepers of that era. You could probably get some nice windows at a RV parts place. Might be a bit claustrophobic riding anywhere but in the middle though even with side windows!

Just my $.02, worth maybe less....
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Old 09-09-2016, 11:36 PM
soltz's Avatar
soltz soltz is offline
The Rat Captain
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Temecula, Ca
Posts: 4,467
Thumbs up

nice start, like the way your thinking and the boys will thank you with ever ride.
keep us posted
Be Safe
Be Creative
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Old 09-10-2016, 01:13 PM
TubularFab TubularFab is offline
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Flowery Branch, GA
Posts: 42

Thanks everyone. I am definitely not going to be using the front end sheetmetal on this build - the goal is to have a very "mechanical" look on this project. My last project car had cycle fenders 1/2" off the front tires, and that was too much front sheetmetal! So, if you know anyone looking for fenders, hood, grill for a cornbinder let me know!

I did not mention what I'm using for power on this thing. I have a Detroit Diesel 4-53 turbo 2 stroke I am going to use. For those not familiar with these engines the model number means 4 cylinders at 53 cubic inches each - 212 cubic inches total. It's a 2 cycle so it fires every time the piston comes to TDC. It has a roots type supercharger on the side of the block to provide the pumping action and charge the cylinders with fresh air via ports in the bottoms of the cylinders. There are 4 valves per cylinder in the head - all exhaust! This engine is a turbo model, so it has a turbocharger feeding the supercharger to achieve some boost. Stock this engine is 175hp and 425 ftlbs of torque, and sounds like a mad chainsaw doing it. I think it brings a lot of character to the truck.

For an idea of the sound look up 4-53t on youtube.

I need to assemble my engine - but already have all the new parts for a complete rebuild.
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Old 09-10-2016, 02:33 PM
kenny c kenny c is offline
Rusty Rat Rodder
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: West Greenwich R.I.
Posts: 3,078

Cool build. I'm not a fan of the Detroit only because of the noise. I've had to work next to one on occasion and end up deaf before the day is half over. I've been told that two different governors are made for these. One for stationary use and one for use in a tractor where rpm changes with the throttle. The latter would be the one two run one a street vehicle if this is the case.
Tetanus Tornado 49 F6
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Old 09-11-2016, 09:14 AM
Old Iron's Avatar
Old Iron Old Iron is offline
Rusty Rat Rodder
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Willard Mo.
Posts: 12,324

The nose forward is not my style but, I do like lookin at them
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Old 09-11-2016, 04:57 PM
akatao akatao is offline
Rusty Rat Rodder
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: mass.
Posts: 429

I've worked on trucks that had the 4-53 noisy doesn't start to explain it, definetly different
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Old 09-11-2016, 08:06 PM
oneeye oneeye is offline
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Palisade, MN
Posts: 158

Love the sleeper and Detroit ideas! I grew up operating Detroit powered logging equipment and just love 'em - even though they made me deaf.
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