Lincoln 225

So I know my 110 MIG won't do thicker metal for a frame. Two days ago I scored a buzz box for free (traded a couple things I had laying around). The plan is to learn how to use it, then do my own frame which I've always wanted to do.

I have no time frame so can spend some time learning how to make good welds. Hopefully this will work out or I'll just have a pro weld it up for me. I posted a question on Weldingweb and got slammed for even thinking I could do this.

Does anyone have any helpful comments or suggestions? Who here has done frames with a Lincoln 225?

http://alec.tamu.edu/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=Y67TTX05uzY=&tabid=625

I stick welded everything except sheet metal til about 17 years ago. I taught myself when I was 16 years old. Later, in college (I was going to be a shop teacher) I took some welding courses.

Read and practice. It would be nice if you had an experienced welder that could evaluate your work.

I didn't check but there might be some tutorials on Youtube.

Thanks Bob!

Yes, I would love to have someone look over my shoulder. I'd love to take classes, but life won't allow that right now. I work, wife has a job and is taking classes, coach the kids, etc. You guys know the drill. Lot's of stuff on the 'net and as long as I play nice the guys on WW and here seem willing to help.

Maybe a side job for someone: Welding coach? Have helmet, will travel....

Nothing wrong with stick. It is the way I certified years ago, and the only way to go for the longest time, on frames. The key is practice, practice, practice. And then, practice some more.

Every few years they come out with some hot new welding setup that makes anything before it obsolete and unsatisfactory. Tig is the new hot button but in a few years something else will make it old hat.

Arc welding is a VERY good way to join two pieces of steel together. For years I only had the same red Lincoln 225 that you just scored and I built a lot of stuff with it , including my 27 that I still drive today. Nothing has ever broken and the welds still look very good, considering I am far from a great welder.

I know my limitations, and for years I would tack weld stuff and then take it to a pro welder for completion. Now I have my Son Dan, who is a really good welder, so I tack things and have him finish the job for me. He is a lot cheaper than the guys I used to pay.

One thing that I bought for my Lincoln arc welder were something they called "contact rods" I think. They were powdered metal instead of a solid rod, as I recall, and even I could lay down a good bead with them. They were more money than standard rods, but they melted in like butter and made a pretty and strong weld.

Some of our expert welders on here may know something about them, if they are even still available. I know they helped me quite a bit on several projects I did and when I tried going back to regular rods I couldn't do half as well.

Don

I'm no expert welder but I've put together a lot of 2-wheeled trailers, carts and a lot of other stuff over the years and I used a "Farmers Special" Stick Welder for all of them.

I started with and stayed with the rods in what I call the "6000 series" of rods.
There a lot more different types for different uses which I haven't used.

For light metals, the 6013-type rod is a shallow penetrating, nice flowing or finishing rod. They aren't known for a good solid weld on thicker or rusty metals.

The 6011-type is more of a DEEP PENETRATING rod. For heavier metals (such as frames, braceing etc, the 6011 will do a good job on this type of steel.

Rod Size selection will make a difference on each type of rod, the lighter the metal, the smaller diameter the rod.

Heat/Current settings on the older stick welders can make a big difference in the bead/flow of the joint too. I use (mostly) the 100 amp as a starting point when using a 1/8th-inch rod and go up or down to get the match between the rod and metal. Do a little experimenting before you actually start on the job.

Practice, Practice and more Practice and remember what rod # and thickness of the metal, as well as the rod thickness, can make good welds if you've done your part.

I have a MILLER 140 Auto that I bought a few years back and use that for lighter metal and my ole "FARMER SPECIAL" still gets-the-call when heavier metal is to be welded.

welding

55 years ago we got a forney buzz box arc welder on the ranch, supposed to keep the farm equipment running but after we got the welder it was used mostly for our buddies and us building cars. We had a big farm forklift for stacking hay , fast way to pull a motor or body off. I used 6011 ac rod to cut-burn with, soak the rods in water then turn up the amps melt the metal then push the blob out of the way with the rod. small dia 6013 for sheet metal work. and a carbon arc torch to heat or braze thicker pieces. 6011 is called farmer rod by the pro's, it will work thru paint and rust, but leaves a lot of spatter. there are lots of welding sites I get a new video every week from welding tips and tricks. jody shows how to use all types of machines. presently my son has my old lincoln buzz box and a small wire feed. I have a lincoln 255 square wave tig and stick with a thumb controll torch, lincoln sp200 wire feed. they are large comercial size. an old airco with ac dc and high frequency, the airco Hi freq works on stick welding as well as tig. , hi freq makes easy starts but will mess up your neighbors radio and tv reception if you share a power company transformer. 2 oxy acety setups, and a plasma,.. after a while you think you need one of everything. now mabe an inverter tig with variable frequency and balance would be neat.
My son called last night and wants to borrow a few of the old welding helments on the shelf.
He and a buddy are teaching a group of Boy Scouts the NEW welding merit badge. A couple years ago I went down to go with him and his Boy Scout group out to Bonneville to see the cars run on the salt. He might be able to get the boys interested in building something. A friend in Calif had a bunch of 16-17 year old Scouts building a rat truck a couple years ago.

If your pretty good with your mig then you know how to weld ie heat ,speed,penetration and to push or pull and so on.So then your stick welder is the same kinda. It will not take very much to get used to it.

Great info, im using a Lincoln 225 Red Box for my frame.

I have a Lincolin 225 that I use on everything.Its a good all around welder[P[P.

i have had several arc welders over the years. about 10 years ago i got a industrial hobart that will do ac, dc and dc rev polarity and i really like it. if i had something hanging over my head i would trust a arc welder holding it as much as any. i have a mig and tig but on thicker stuff i like arc best. i have to admit i hate to breathe the fumes any more though.

If you must.... use 6011 rod... 3/32 McKay runs well on the thinner stuff. 6013 runs well but only in flat position.

For years I used 1109 rod - it was what dad had in the shop then I went to the welding shop and found out it was 6011. that is a true story guys