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Bruce R

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 27, 2016
Messages
100
Location
Shamokin, Pa.
Anyone know if there’s any instructions or articles out there that describes step by step how to install a M-2 front end that’s been cut out of another car ? The reason I ask is because I have a Thames with a M-2 front end with all new parts. I’ve decided to go the gasser route with the Thames and use a narrowed econoline axle. However, I just bought a 62 Falcon and I wanted to use the M-2 front end in that. I’m sure the front end in the Thames was cut out of a mustang, not a kit. I’ve emailed several kit manufacturers, and they sell crossmembers, but they tell me that over the years they have improved on the original kits and my stock Ford parts would not fit the crossmembers that they now sell.
 
Check my build thread. We have a stock MII we cut out and reinstalled. Everything you need to know should be covered. Please feel free to ask if there's anything I can do to help!

http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36240&page=6


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Ok, I’m about done with this forum, I have to login to post or reply, so I do that and it welcomes me by name. Then I spend 20 minutes pecking out a reply to something and when I hit submit reply, it tells me I’m not logged in. AND while I’m logging in again it erases the damn reply that took me 20 minutes to type. I’ve had it, this happens every time I login here.
 
Ok, I’m about done with this forum, I have to login to post or reply, so I do that and it welcomes me by name. Then I spend 20 minutes pecking out a reply to something and when I hit submit reply, it tells me I’m not logged in. AND while I’m logging in again it erases the damn reply that took me 20 minutes to type. I’ve had it, this happens every time I login here.

It's not the forum, it's your browser. Are you using the unsecure address (http://www.ratrodsrule.com) instead of the secure (https://www.ratrodsrule.com)? That's what I have to do, otherwise I was having similar issues. You can also copy your reply before you hit submit just on the off chance it boots you out.
 
Check my build thread. We have a stock MII we cut out and reinstalled. Everything you need to know should be covered. Please feel free to ask if there's anything I can do to help!

http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36240&page=6


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I don’t think I understand ride height, I have no idea how much the suspension will squash when the engine is installed, since I’ll be starting with bare frame rails, I see no way to determine that. I have no idea how high the tail will be after putting in stiffer spring leafs or air shocks, I don’t even know what tires and wheels will be on it until I run across a set somewhere.
 
M2

What if my frame rails are wider or narrower than the crossmember ? Add a piece or take a piece out of the crossmember ? Then the rack wouldn’t fit.
 
I don’t think I understand ride height, I have no idea how much the suspension will squash when the engine is installed, since I’ll be starting with bare frame rails, I see no way to determine that. I have no idea how high the tail will be after putting in stiffer spring leafs or air shocks, I don’t even know what tires and wheels will be on it until I run across a set somewhere.


That'll be a problem. We know the tire sizes we're going to use. We know what the "rake" or angle of the frame will be. That's our ride height.

We expect our rear suspension will need adjustment to achieve the desired ride height. It might be too stiff or too soft, too tall or too short, but we have space to work with.

Fully loaded, the lower MII control arms should be level with the floor. We did our mock up with the springs removed. We made simple fixtures to keep the control arms in that position. (I don't think I showed that, but I'll find it for you.)

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What if my frame rails are wider or narrower than the crossmember ? Add a piece or take a piece out of the crossmember ? Then the rack wouldn’t fit.

That's the fun part of fabbing from scratch and not using store bought kits.l:D

If it needs shortened, relocate mounts, shorten tierods. If widened, add a piece, relocate rack mounts and stretch the tierods.
 
What if my frame rails are wider or narrower than the crossmember ? Add a piece or take a piece out of the crossmember ? Then the rack wouldn’t fit.

Measure the overall width as it is now. (Outside of tire to outside of tire.) Is it too wide or too narrow for the Falcon? It should be in the ballpark.

If the width is good, fabricate the rails to fit the crossmember, not the other way around.

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You can buy longer or shorter tie rod ends. You can also cut and re-thread the tie rods if they are too long.
The frame rail modification is the way to go.
 
Fully loaded, the lower MII control arms should be level with the floor. We did our mock up with the springs removed. We made simple fixtures to keep the control arms in that position. (I don't think I showed that, but I'll find it for you.)

Like this...

attachment.php


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I ran into another lesson while finishing a previously owned, stalled project. Make sure you can adjust your caster and camber sufficiently BEFORE you weld everything on permanently. Keep your upper ball-joint slightly behind the lower one.
Keep on tinkering.
 
Ok, got this figured out. Found a company that sells the blueprints for the M 2 crossmember with detailed installation and set up instructions, 16 bucks. I’ll build my own. Something that just occurred to me though, after the shock towers are cut out and plated, what is done with the export brace ? That thing is important, right ?
 
Depends on your structural plan. If you're building a full frame, it becomes "body on frame" and the braces are no longer required.

If you're grafting the MII, the body is the frame and the braces are critical. If that's the idea, you should fabricate/relocate the export brace. A "Monte Carlo brace" would be a wise addition as well.

For example...

B3UrhlvAys_CiUumsIiFQAMzrobsW2oABP0oi_w25sTQdE2EE2kCui1VfGXO9UFelp9iQJNEuemg65CWELR_nyUAbP4tYZxLUOGVu9mmYVadlTtuckVvUB9l7jS4s0iKMUL0mmyRXkd6beH1EKQkhds


Before I flap my lips any more... what is your plan?


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My plan is to remove the shock towers and suspension mounts, steering box and column and install a M2 front suspension, a slightly warmed over 302 backed by a 5-spd with a narrowed 8.8 posi rear with 3:25 gears. Also an Ididit steering column.
 
No subframe connectors?

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Hadn’t thought about it really, I’ve never seen a set that actually looked like they might contribute anything more than marginal stiffness to the body. If I would make a set, they’d have a flange on both sides for the full length and be spot welded every inch and a half or so
 

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