Mini Muscle Car

Rat Rods Rule

Help Support Rat Rods Rule:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Couple of questions?

Wouldn't it be better to triangulate a upper brace off the top, maybe just below the windshield, and maybe one down lower as well? Or do you have that in mind for after the dash is in place?

Is there a sleeve on the shaft? Doesn't look like it in the pic, but I could be missing something...

I said a couple, well, one more....

With the steering going through where it is, that close to the transmission, where will the gas pedal go? Looks like the room is disappearing quick down there...
 
bob w said:
Lots of other stuff in the way lately. Finally got the steering from the rack to the steering wheel done, except for final welding. Trying to use parts I have. The column runs so far from the firewall, and there is no dash yet, I had a time figuring out where to bracket it. Settled on this "T" section member that angles up from the frame. It is sturdy; no side to side or up and down movement of the column. It will be a left foot braking deal with that brace in the way.

With engine forward there is a lot more foot room so, it was all worthwhile. 'Course there's still a crap ton of work to do. Next will be the trans tunnel and floor.

BTW, I still watch Bad Chad. As long as he's building a 50mph drag car, I'm ok with it. Like it or not, the body is one of a kind.
Click to expand...

LOL. It sure is bob.
I see chad's got you drilling holes in stuff now.;:eek: :p
You build is looking great.:D [cl :cool: :cool:
I have taken to looking at his subject matter for the day before I waste my bandwidth on watching all of his posts.
I see he was plumbing in the radiator today using copper pipe. Some one commented that "They hope he knows that he has to solder all of it.":eek:
Torchie
 
Bamamav, First I triangulated to the upper firewall. The legs were 24" long and the cowl and firewall are not a strong structure to build from even though I added a length of square tubing up there. It was wiggly. So, Plan B, which is what you see.
Yes, there is a tube over the upper shaft with an oilite bushing in each end. It U-bolts to the "T" brace near the top.
There is plenty of room for the gas pedal. That was one of the area that made the car hard to drive. Should be a lot better now.
 
bob w said:
Bamamav, First I triangulated to the upper firewall. The legs were 24" long and the cowl and firewall are not a strong structure to build from even though I added a length of square tubing up there. It was wiggly. So, Plan B, which is what you see.
Yes, there is a tube over the upper shaft with an oilite bushing in each end. It U-bolts to the "T" brace near the top.
There is plenty of room for the gas pedal. That was one of the area that made the car hard to drive. Should be a lot better now.
Click to expand...
As long as you're happy with it that's all that matters. Not me being there, the pics don't do it justice. I'm sure you'll make it work, you always seem to!
 
Yeah, I’ve been watching Bad Chad, too. I don’t get the big controversy on the firewall in his case. It’s a stock flathead six going 1/8 mile. No more dangerous than a motorcycle, 4 wheeler, or a go kart IMO. The guy repeatedly gets Gene Winfield’s stamp of approval; Gene’s been on his show several times.
 
Right, zz. When I realized he was building a pretender and not a real drag car, I backed off.
I keep getting interrupted with stupid stuff like family obligations. Just kidding, my family. So not much progress lately. I cut the square shaped driveshaft hoop and crossmember out because it was in the wrong place. Made a cathedral shape out of it and welded it to the former trans crossmember. Began framing in the floor.
The second pic shows the room available for the gas pedal. The width is fine and is the length from the seat.
 

Attachments

  • floor framing 001.jpg
    floor framing 001.jpg
    74.2 KB · Views: 26
  • floor framing 002.jpg
    floor framing 002.jpg
    96.8 KB · Views: 26
I got enough of the floor framing in so I can start making patterns for the sheet metal. Went to Wally World and bought an 8 pack of poster board. Debating about an angles toe board, as shown or not.
I buy 30" by 48" sheet metal panels at a steel supply yard because they are easier to handle/carry. This trip each 20 Gauge panel cost $45.00. A 4 by 8 sheet of 18 gauge at another supply house is $135.00. $100.00 for 20 gauge. I guess I paid a premium for the handipanels because they are handy..
 

Attachments

  • Posterboard 001.jpg
    Posterboard 001.jpg
    36 KB · Views: 18
  • Posterboard 003.jpg
    Posterboard 003.jpg
    61.1 KB · Views: 18
  • Posterboard 002.jpg
    Posterboard 002.jpg
    59.5 KB · Views: 19
Last edited:
Smaller pieces always cost more per inch. It is convenient to be sure.
$150 here for a 4x8 -18 gauge.
That’s next weeks purchase😎
Looks good bob. Nothing like a good “cad” ( cardboard assisted design.)
Torchie
 
Made and tacked into place a two piece toe board. The rest of the floor on the passenger side is flat with just a little trimming needed here and there. After the driver side is done, the fun will begin as I attempt a transmission cover.
 

Attachments

  • half floor 001.jpg
    half floor 001.jpg
    57.4 KB · Views: 19
  • half floor 002.jpg
    half floor 002.jpg
    71.3 KB · Views: 15
  • half floor 003.jpg
    half floor 003.jpg
    66 KB · Views: 14
The driver side toe boards are in and the rest of the floor is cut to fit. Started on the Trans tunnel. Started by staring at it for a while deciding on its shape. Settled on the angular style. It will be removable so there is a mounting flange bolted to the firewall. The tin you see will be welded to it after some fine tuning.
 

Attachments

  • trans top 002.jpg
    trans top 002.jpg
    70.7 KB · Views: 22
  • trans top 001.jpg
    trans top 001.jpg
    75.2 KB · Views: 21
Your trans tunnel design makes perfect sense when I look at it. Matches the bell housing. The thought never occurred to me to do one that way. Big likes! [cl
 
Not much building time today. Senior Citizen medical appointments, you know.
The passenger side is semi finished. If sheet metal wasn't so expensive I would do this over now that I've seen the error of my ways. It will look better finished. It will be covered with sound deadening material anyway. Yes folks, a nod toward comfort in the little French car.
Cup holders? Thanks for reminding me. Maybe French (get it?) some in on the angled surface.
 

Attachments

  • tunnel side 001.jpg
    tunnel side 001.jpg
    67.4 KB · Views: 25
  • tunnel side 002.jpg
    tunnel side 002.jpg
    48.7 KB · Views: 25
  • tunnel side 003.jpg
    tunnel side 003.jpg
    60.5 KB · Views: 26

Similar threads

G
My 49 Plymouth coupe build
2
Replies
39
Views
4K
smallfoot
smallfoot
zzrodder
Second Wind - a Packard Gasser
29 30 31
Replies
602
Views
94K
05snopro440
05snopro440
G
The Goldcar Story, cont.
10 11 12
Replies
223
Views
17K
Bamamav
Bamamav
G
The Goldcar Story
Replies
8
Views
1K
bob w
bob w
bob w
TBT: Bob's Car Adventures
2
Replies
36
Views
29K
Dr Crankenstein
Dr Crankenstein

Latest posts

Back
Top