1933 chevy tudor sedan aka Project Copper Tone!

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endicott_jb

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 19, 2013
Messages
1,352
Location
Havre, MT but may as well be the north pole
So, I got the ford and I got the chevy Tudor. Time to get to work. Plans are, use the existing frame but box it in along with z notching the rear end. Gonna run a ford 360 from a 76 f-150 backed by a 4 speed from a 73 f-150 2wd and a ford 9 inch narrowed down. The wiring harness will be from the f-150 and I'll see what else I use from the f-150. Anyhow, pictures are worth a thousand words so...

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Not gonna run fenders or a hood. Bare bones rod if y'all know what I mean. I got lucky as the guy normally doesn't sell anything and I got this car at a steal at 800 bucks. The lot is awesome. So many coupes and convertibles. I had a hard on walking through his place.
 
Hi Endicott_jb. Nice choice! but you walked right by a shoebox coupe on the passenger side of your Chevy and just look at what you left behind the Chev, a Minneapolis Moline,[possibly a GBD no less]. I'm one of those shifty characters that look in the background of pictures a lot, just like skull[ddd. Go man go, you got a real nice start there.
 
I didn't walk right past them all. This guy normally doesn't sell anything as he's a bit of a collector/hoarder/builder. I knew what I was looking for and because of that I'm sure he trusted me more than most others. A lot of people stop buy but he never sells. I just got incredibly lucky is all. Anyhow, hoping that I can go back tomorrow and pick it up. There are lots of places like this out here. You just gotta keep your eyes open.
 
Really good start to a rod.
I'd like to ask why a 360 ford. The Ford doesn't raise the question, just the 360 part [P
Do you know something I don't, about that engine [S
 
Nothing special about the engine at all other than I already have it. It is a torquey engine though. And with the 2 barrel carb that's on it, with the transmission, and rear end gears(even turning 31"x12.5 tires) it gets between 18 and 20 mpg on the highway. In a lighter car, it'll do pretty damn well.
 
Mostly cause I already have it. Secondly because it runs damned well. Anyhow, finally pucked the car up today. Boy was it a pita. Got high centered in my pickup, tried getting it back up on the lot to no avail. So I walked over to a neighbor to see if he could help which he did thank god. So instead of loading it directly onto the trailer I pulled it out to z more open space then hooked up to the trailer again and began the 2 hour ordeal of loading it up. All in all an okay day. I'm glad it's over and to know the brakes aren't locked up is a definite plus.
 
Nice looking build. I like the mish mash of part on hand going into the build. I will be following along. [P

I sent you a PM on the fenders too.
 
So after being gone all weekend I got home and started shifting through what all the car came with. Came with the front seat backs, all the seat springs, the window regulators, all 6 cranks, a carter carb, the hood, the grill, and the radiator. The grill is in okay shape aside from the screen but I figure I can make something work for it. More will happen once I get into the shop to start really working on it.
 
So, I've been trying to figure out a way to convert the old spring brakes over to juice. Been looking through speedway and it seams that they don't make a kit for chevy front ends so I think I've devised a way that'll be kinda cheap and easy. I'll cut off the old spindles, weld on trailer spindles, use a trailer hub, and bolt the disc straight to the trailer hub. Does this sound like a good idea or am I better off buying a whole front end kit? Or does anyone know if the speedway kits do in fact fit chevy front axles?
 
No offense, but your plan may give new meaning to the term "suicide front end". :eek:

I've looked into conversion kits for my '38 Chevy and found a few vendors, all of which appear to come from the link below. Take a look...

28-40 Chevy passenger car and Pickup - with Straight Axle
(will not fit '33-36 cars with light duty spindle - call for details)
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica]EC-711S....................................Basic Kit $ 180.00[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica]EC-711SCK..........................Complete Kit $ 450.00 [/FONT]

http://ecihotrodbrakes.com/early_chevy_discbrake_conversions.html

.
 
Thanks a lot crankenstein. I have been looking for a company like that but all I found was speedway and all their stuff is for the reproduction ford axles that they sell. I didn't want to have to toss these axles that I have(one on the car, the other from a truck). I'll haveta give them a call.
 
Today, I spent the day tearing down my "spare" front end. Now here's a question. How do I know what year the spindles are from? The inside of the spindle, where the bearing rides mics at 1.356" and the outer mics at .75". According to the link you posted above, they say will not work with 33-36 light duty spindles. I guess I'm just really new at this stuff.
 
Today, because I was bored mostly, I decided to pull the intake, exhaust manifold, and head off the engine. I'm hoping that it'll help in the removal of the engine. I found wasp nests in 4 of the 6 cylinders. Holy crap are they big suckers and wow is that head light. Maybe the engine is just as light. Hopefully, I can get this pig into the shop next month. My buddy left for AZ on Monday and when he gets back I go to Kansas City, KS for training so it prolly won't be until August that I can really start wrenching, cutting, and grinding.
 
Today, I spent the day tearing down my "spare" front end. Now here's a question. How do I know what year the spindles are from?

Sorry I didn't reply earlier. Here's and easy way to determine which axle (and ideally which spindle) you have. Measure the kingpin boss as shown below.

1.75'' is light duty and 2.125'' is the "normal" axle.

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