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Electrical... Talk & Q&A! Electrical Q&A.. The shocking truth, tips, tricks & more! |
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#11
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![]() I like the idea of putting a set of terminals or quick connects up front for access. I think I'll do that. |
#12
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Welding lead makes good cables
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#13
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You only have to run the cable as far as the starter.
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#14
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Gotta luv that grill
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Hot things look just like Cold things ![]() Offroadrolls build: http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23696 42 Chevy PU build: http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthr...ht=42+chevy+pu |
#15
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10 ga. isn't near heavy enough.
I use #2 welding lead |
#16
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I agree with Bama and Old Iron. Welding suppliers are an excellent source for quality cable by the yard.
Quote:
'99 Ford 7.3 TD Starter Motor Diameter: 3.4" Current Draw Under Normal Load: 230-630 AMPS Normal Cranking Speed: 150-200 RPM Minimum Stall Torque @ 2.5 Volts: 27.5 ft-lbs Max Load: 2400 AMPS No Load: 170 AMPS Your diesel had two big capacity batteries originally, something like 850 CCA each... that's 1700 available amps in tip top condition... So, you'd be wise to provide as much power as physically possible. As the specs above dictate, you can expect starter draw up to 630 amps. In cold conditions, expect that much draw and possibly more. For those reasons, the shorter your cables, the better... and likewise, the longer your cables the larger they need to be. Also consider the length and size of your ground cables. They need to carry the same amperage as the hot cables. Check the link below for cable specs and length restrictions... https://www.wiringproducts.com/4-0-gauge-battery-cable .
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#17
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Excellent. Thank you guys.
I'm second guessing my placement in the back now. I need to minimize length. I think I'll create an enclosure in the front by the engine and use the back for the fuel tank. Thanks for looking up the 7.3 current draw, Doc. |
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