Bamamav's 1947 Lincoln Club Coupe build

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Frame might have gotten hit at one time and they

just made the front sheet metal fit.....I'd do some measuring at the frame rails and see if it's off....3/4 inch is a bundle.....only saving grace....you can't see both sides at the same time...oh...unless your looking straight on...lol...let us know how that works out.......[P
 
it looks like that left front corner took a pretty good whack at some point in time, dent in fender and paint scraped off of end of bumper. could account for tire appearing too far to outside.

take left front wheel off and put gunny sack full of sand inside fender with lumber backing and use porta-power against frame to push fender out.
 
I said 3/4", that is the distance the left would have to move in to make the right side equal. Right side is in 1.5" farther than the left, which is flush with the fender. The dent in the left fender was minor, a side swipe. They swiped another fender against the car. I doubt that would have tweaked it 1.5".

There is a possibility that the frame is bent, but I haven't seen any evidence of it. The sheetmetal all lines up good.

The front end has a factory panhard bar, and cross steering. It also has a factory sway bar. I guess I need to measure the distance from the wishbone mounts to the frame and see if they are the same. I wonder if the spring could have shifted? Looks like the panhead bar would have kept it from moving over much.

This is my first buggy spring car, so I'm learning as I go.....
 
Is the panhard bar level ?
If the car has been raised or lowered it will make a difference where the axle ends up side to side.
 
Not much to report this week. I did get a couple of boxes from "Speedy Bill" :D One had my new wiring harness, the other the firewall mount swinging pedal and booster. I have been stripping out the old wiring and old unused brackets under the dash. I have the pedal assembly mocked up, with a template under the hood to make sure the booster will clear the hood hinges. Got to figure out how to cut the big azzed hole for the booster. Hole saw would be nice, but I don't own one that large, and bet it would be $30-40. May just use snips.

I also bought my lug nuts today. Why do they package nuts 4 a card, or 16? For a 5 lug, you have to buy extras. I ended up buying two sets of 16, fronts are different size due to the adapters.

Sorry, no new pics.:( I didn't feel real good today, and didn't get much done, and didn't even think about the camera.:eek:
 
One thing has popped up though, and I'm not sure what to do about it. The front tire is 3/4" too far to one side. I don't know if it will re center after it moves a bit, or if something is pulling it off center.
This side sits inside the fender, the other sits flush with it.

Sounds silly, but with some of the goofyness I have seen from the previous owner, what is the chance that the backspace of the wheels is not the same from side to side? I'd guess, however, that you are probably correct in that either the fenders are tweaked, or the frame perhaps took a hit and moved the mounting points inward on the suspension... I probably missed it, but does this car have independent front suspension?
 
Those are the wheels and tires I had on the Maverick, and I never noticed them being different offset on it. Possible I guess.

It's a solid axle, buggy spring with a panhard bar, like a 47 Ford would have. I think it might be the panhard bar is bent, somebody probably hooked a chain on it at sometime to pull the car.:eek: I decided not to worry about it too much until I get it off the trailer and move it around a bit. It will probably be different sitting on the ground.

Just one of those unexpected surprises!
 
Most people with expensive wheels also buy a set of locking lug nuts (one per wheel).

4 regular+1 locking=just right.

Good answer, I didn't think about that. Matter of fact, the sets I bought had 16 nuts, and 4 puzzle locks. Doubt I'll use the puzzle locks, they are aggravating to me. And having to keep up with two "keys" would be a pain.
 
Got started early yesterday and got a big job {for me anyway} out of the way, got the pedal and booster assembly mounted.
Started with a cardboard pattern:


After insuring everything fit without interference, I marked the holes, cringed as I drilled the pristine firewall, and hoped I'd measured right. Everything went together nicely after that.

 
I took my gauges out as I want to refinish them and paint the dash. Keeping the stock speedo and clock, going to do the battery conversion on the clock. Opened the bezel for the other gauges, looks as though my Stewart Warner gauges will fit with a little work.

 
Not much to report this week....

Haven't gotten much done this week. Did manage to get my SW gauges installed in my stock bezel. Still need to make a couple of straps to hold the rear panel on.




My power window kit came in, have got to gut the doors and install it.


Hope to be able to do some this week. Off most of the day tomorrow, so maybe I can get in a little shop time....
 
I like what you did with the gauges but maybe paint the chrome outer rings of each gauge black so they don't look like an afterthought.....

I wish I had of thought of that! :( Too late now, they're glued in place. The rings don't really show that much when looking at them from straight on. They are more of a satin silver than chrome, so they do match the bezel anyway.
 
Decided to take out the under seat heaters this week. I'm not going to use them, so they were just in the way, and I wanted to see how the floor looked under the carpet. A little disappointed, several rust holes.



 
Floor is still strong, so I'm just going to overlay it with fresh metal. That will be easier than patching every hole, and easier than trying to cut out the old floor and fit a new one. Reckon I need to paint the old floor with Por 15 before I weld the new sheets over it?:confused:
 
I would overlay sheetmetal over the rusty floor. Cut out and replace what needs to be replaced. The future owners of the car will thank you.
 
After spending all day last Sat on something that didn't work out, and having to work on the lawnmower this week, I finally got to get somthing done to the Linc. I started installing my power window kit yesterday. Here's the original hydraulic unit in place, it was rusted solid and wasn't even attached to the glass. The glass was held up by screws through the door panel!



Here's the unit out of the door
 

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