Welding a Ford axle

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jjibs

Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2007
Messages
10
Location
Southwest Pa.
HI, anyone arc weld hairpin brackets to a Model A Ford front axle? If so what amp setting and rod did you use? Thanks
 
Hey Jjibs, Don't take this as a dig, because it is not really ment to be one.

If you have questions about the amp setting on the machine, maybe you should not try such an important weld. The reality of the question is machines are different, and are we talking arc, mig, tig,220, 110, or what here anyway? Also different welders (the people) like settings a on each machine to be a little different. I have hade welders come to work for me and find the sweet spot for them to be different than the last guy liked it.
This is really not info you can get from the site. you may be able to try some scrap 1/2 plate and see how your welder likes it, and go from there. Good luck on this project.
 
Bonehead is right. Take some advice here. A LOT of pressure and stress depends on that weld and if you are even asking for a recomendation on what setting to use, that is one you are better off to pay to have done. Sure, it might survive otherwise, but are you willing to bet your life, your families life, and your friends life on that weld? Because that is exactly what you are doing.
 
Why do you have to weld them ?cant you just build some bolt on ones?
I shy away from welding on axles when i can.Just in case!
 
BoneHead is right about that.
Depends on what rod is used as well.
Being a welder by trade I'd suggest leaving that to a pro or at least play with a lot of scrap to get a real feel for what is right!
Just some advice not a dig!Nobody wants to get you hurt by just throwing out a bogus heat setting!
 
The size of the rod influences the current required.

The type of welder also makes a difference.

I think AC machines create the same amount of heat in the part and rod.

DC machines create more in one than the other,which gets the most heat depends on the polarity you are using.

DEFINATELY do some research,and practice on something else first.

Ford axles can be welded,narrowed,bent and stretched.
Done correctly,the results will be safe.
Done incorrectly,you might have to walk home,if you are lucky.
 
Rough rule of thumb: start with 1 amp for every .001" rod dia.
Measure the small end of the rod.

3/32" .... 94 amps
1/8" .... 125 amps
5/32" .... 155 amps

From there,adjust up or down,to suit the job.
The beads should wash in on both sides,no under cutting.

RESEARCH what rod is appropriate for the job you are doing.
Do you need 6011,7014,7018,7024,etc ?? ?

BUY NEW RODS.
Don't try and save $5 using some crap
that has been sitting around for 20 years.

Practice on something that is not critical.
Then practice some more.
 
Yea you guys are right, I'll just buy another axle. Was going to weld them on because the perch bolt holes are egg shaped. Thanks
 
I have been welding for decades, and have a torch, 3 migs and a tig machine and I would think twice before welding on an axle and then I would consider the engineering of the weldment carefully first.

Then I would call Bonehead and ask him what he thought.:D
 
If i had to weld it then i would make a bolt on safty braket that went around the front of the axle and bolted to the weld on braket .Just in case it broke loose .If it held up good then after a while you could take it off ?
 
Jjibs, Sorry, I misssed the ARC in the question, that darn speed reading course that I never took. I also think you should not give up so easy. You may still be able to work with that axle. Can you post a picture? What I picture in my head is probably not the same.
I like the idea of making a bolt on saftey. The thing you have to look at is what the base metal is in the axle. You can tell alot by running a grinder lightly over the axle. Cast iron usually throws of heavy dark sparks, as compared to steel which throws a lighter color and smaller spark. Hardened steel throws a very light and very small spark. We used to test metals with a torch, but it screws up the metal. Cast won't cut, ( or wont cut well with a torch), but the sparks let you know what metal you have. This also takes experience, knowing what I am talking about and being able to compare sparks.
Once you know what you are working with, Don't even bother welding cast, even with Nickle rod, or MIG, for an axle, you cant trust it to hold. More than likely you have a drop forged axle, which is great to weld on. The fact that the holes are egged out means that it is probably softter metal, unless they are worn holes. I think you could either drop in a bushing and weld it, or weld it shut and re-drill. If you are worried about changing the properties of the metal pre heat and post heat the area you are working with. Even drop forged can get brittle if it cools too fast. (Don't use water to cool it down). For ARC welding, generally you have more options with a D.C. rig.
But rod size will make a difference as well. Mild steel rod like 6010,6011,6013 will work, or a Low hydrogen rod like 7018 will make a harder weld.
This is just the tip of what you need to know. Thats why I say if you don't know this stuff, it could be dangerous. Post us a picture.
 
Jjibs, Sorry, I misssed the ARC in the question, that darn speed reading course that I never took. I also think you should not give up so easy. You may still be able to work with that axle. Can you post a picture? What I picture in my head is probably not the same.
I like the idea of making a bolt on saftey. The thing you have to look at is what the base metal is in the axle. You can tell alot by running a grinder lightly over the axle. Cast iron usually throws of heavy dark sparks, as compared to steel which throws a lighter color and smaller spark. Hardened steel throws a very light and very small spark. We used to test metals with a torch, but it screws up the metal. Cast won't cut, ( or wont cut well with a torch), but the sparks let you know what metal you have. This also takes experience, knowing what I am talking about and being able to compare sparks.
Once you know what you are working with, Don't even bother welding cast, even with Nickle rod, or MIG, for an axle, you cant trust it to hold. More than likely you have a drop forged axle, which is great to weld on. The fact that the holes are egged out means that it is probably softter metal, unless they are worn holes. I think you could either drop in a bushing and weld it, or weld it shut and re-drill. If you are worried about changing the properties of the metal pre heat and post heat the area you are working with. Even drop forged can get brittle if it cools too fast. (Don't use water to cool it down). For ARC welding, generally you have more options with a D.C. rig.
But rod size will make a difference as well. Mild steel rod like 6010,6011,6013 will work, or a Low hydrogen rod like 7018 will make a harder weld.
This is just the tip of what you need to know. Thats why I say if you don't know this stuff, it could be dangerous. Post us a picture.


Yeah, thats what I'm talking about. What he said.:D
 
What I did.
 

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Most axles are forged,so they can be welded,if necessary.
Some of the new aftermarket axles are cast,to save a few bucks.

Look at the parting line to figure if it was cast or forged.
Cast parts will have a narrow parting line.
Forgings will have a wide parting line.

How badly are the perch bolt holes distorted ?
Did they get wrecked when someone tried to drop the axle ?
 
Im hip! I gave my axle to a pro for that weld. I wasnt confident(stupid) enough to trust my welding to something that would kill me.:D
 

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