36 Ford truck on Ranger

Rat Rods Rule

Help Support Rat Rods Rule:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Looks like it came out in that truck :cool:
Put the mouse over each pic, use the mouse's scroll wheel, push down till it clicks, it'll open the pics in new tabs, then click back and forth from pic to pic , it looks like you're speed shifting [ddd
 
Thank you guys.
You know that return spring that's wrapped around the cross-shaft of an old Ford gas pedal to hold it up off of the floor and keep the carburetor at an idle? Well, it broke or unraveled, [it's only 79 years old], so I put a newer style spring on the throttle shaft and had to make an anchoring arm. I like to make things look old and maybe stock to the naive. [;)
Oh, here's a peek at a two barrel, 'teapot carb' that comes on a Mercury flathead. :cool:
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1559.jpg
    IMG_1559.jpg
    64.6 KB · Views: 42
  • IMG_1560.jpg
    IMG_1560.jpg
    97.5 KB · Views: 45
  • IMG_1561.jpg
    IMG_1561.jpg
    132.3 KB · Views: 46
:D You guys are going to swell my head. :D
Today I put a return spring on the choke linkage to keep the choke knob in against the dash.
Lately the dang truck has been bogging out after each shift so I guessed that the accelerator pump was not doing its job. I popped the top off of that 'teapot' and sure enough the accelerator pump rubber piston was shrunk enough that it wouldn't pump. I hunted around for a stiffener and found an old used carb kit for my hemi and robbed a little round spring out of it and squashed it into the rubber piston. Then out of another old carb kit I used a little wee washer that just fit over the end of the pump rod to hold the Hemi spring in there.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1562.jpg
    IMG_1562.jpg
    116.6 KB · Views: 25
I have finally got almost around to fixing the little bugs in the '36. It was warm outside and I thought I was done fixing on the '55 Merc so I planned to exchange the two trucks [the inside, warm one with the outside, cold one]. If I only could have started the '55 up and got it off the hoist I could have done the whole truck swap and the Merc would be out in the cold shed. This is only lateral movement and NOT my life going sideways, yet again.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1630.jpg
    IMG_1630.jpg
    115.2 KB · Views: 34
After testing lots of electrical stuff, I finally found that I'd inadvertently unplugged the big wire coming out of the coil, so the '55 Merc would not start. The vacuum connection to feed the power brake booster is right near the coil and when I changed the booster I unplugged and replugged the vacuum line a few times so I probably touched the coil wire some times. Anyhow that's fixed and the Red truck is put away in the cold shed, and the black truck is my focus now. I still have a vibration in the driveline so I've taken the driveshaft off and delivered it to a shop in town to check it out. While I was there I asked the boss if could shed some light on my drive-line angles. My transmission angle and rear-end pinion angle are the same but big numbers. [7.5*]. He said,"You have to have the pinion facing the back of the transmission and the transmission shaft facing the pinion, or as close as you can get." On my truck, the line extending from either of those devises did not touch the other one. I'm making that happen. I took 6* wedges out of each side on the rear-end. Now the pinion lines up with where the tail shaft of the transmission will be when I get it to be about 2 or 3 degrees.
The first picture is the new brake booster in the Mercury.
#2 is putting the finishing touches to taking the wedges out of the rear springs/rear-end perches.
third pic; a pretty good pinion angle, I think.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1625.jpg
    IMG_1625.jpg
    118.7 KB · Views: 18
  • IMG_1631.jpg
    IMG_1631.jpg
    111.8 KB · Views: 16
  • IMG_1632.jpg
    IMG_1632.jpg
    85.2 KB · Views: 18
MercuryMac said:
After testing lots of electrical stuff, I finally found that I'd inadvertently unplugged the big wire coming out of the coil, so the '55 Merc would not start. The vacuum connection to feed the power brake booster is right near the coil and when I changed the booster I unplugged and replugged the vacuum line a few times so I probably touched the coil wire some times. Anyhow that's fixed and the Red truck is put away in the cold shed, and the black truck is my focus now. I still have a vibration in the driveline so I've taken the driveshaft off and delivered it to a shop in town to check it out. While I was there I asked the boss if could shed some light on my drive-line angles. My transmission angle and rear-end pinion angle are the same but big numbers. [7.5*]. He said,"You have to have the pinion facing the back of the transmission and the transmission shaft facing the pinion, or as close as you can get." On my truck, the line extending from either of those devises did not touch the other one. I'm making that happen. I took 6* wedges out of each side on the rear-end. Now the pinion lines up with where the tail shaft of the transmission will be when I get it to be about 2 or 3 degrees.
The first picture is the new brake booster in the Mercury.
#2 is putting the finishing touches to taking the wedges out of the rear springs/rear-end perches.
third pic; a pretty good pinion angle, I think.
Click to expand...

Let me know how your driveline angles work out. I always read that it's the other way, that the lines extending from each should be parallel but never touch, like the second example in the below picture. That way your transmission and pinion will be parallel.

What I gather from your description is that he's telling you to do what's in the bottom example.

pinion_angle_bad_angles.PNG
 
Like you, Snopro, I thought the two lines should be parallel and mine were, but I still had a vibration. Mine was like the second picture.
I usually don't like someone telling me stuff that doesn't make sense, like 'tip your pinion angle towards the transmission', without any other explanation. This time I'm desperate so I listened with one ear. The rear-end and transmission will now be lined up, AND running parallel. This means I'll have to remake my transmission hump but that's doable. My lines will end up being like your first picture.
 
I started to follow the machine shop guys' questionable advice [the pinion has to face the transmission tailshaft], before the shop guy got around to telling me that the driveshaft was bent. So now I will have fixed two things in the same problem area and I won't have learned which was the culprit.:(:(
There are a few other things I'm going to fix while it's up on the hoist. This summer the starter locked up once and it must have bent something a little because there's a grating noise by the clutch now sometimes.
 
I agree with you OI. It has vibrated since the first test drive. A little more information on the driveshaft is, I got that shaft made at another machine shop a few years ago and never suspected it could be bent and brand new at the same time.
 
Yes Soltz, I'm a little wiser now :D and if I don't look in my wallet I can :) a bit.
Thanks Dutch, You're right, that's a good movie. I believed it right away because it made sense to me. This vibration has been going on since the start up so I've been doing research and had seen that movie before. Everyone should see it.

Anyhow, I'm changing the angle of the transmission so I have to cut the floor boards and the toeboard a wee bit and make a slight tunnel. Things are marked and now I have to take out the trans, which means removal of two crossmembers and the exhaust pipes.
 
Glad to see you found the cause of the vibration, just to bad there is so much involved to rectify the problem. First time I've seen the drive shaft video, great info.
 
Thanks Dozer, I have the newest driveshaft back home now but not installed or test driven.
While the truck was up on the hoist and partly apart I thought I would dig into finding a grating noise when I stepped on the clutch. I had to take the transmission out to cut the floorboards some more. It's out. When I started looking for too tight of fit or shiny spots around the clutch I was running out of ideas as nothing looked bad. Then I started turning the flywheel and on the motor side I finally came to a long streak of shiny. Ah ha! The flywheel has not been running true and is hitting the back of the motor or the front dust shield. The dial indicator said the runout was 240 thousands. Whoa! Pretty well a quarter of an inch. I have finally got the flywheel and belhousing unbolted and loose but not right out of there so I don't know what exactly is wrong yet. Who ever heard of a bent flywheel behind a flathead.
 

Similar threads

M
New guy with a scratch built cab
Replies
10
Views
622
26Troadster
26Troadster
lowbudget50
Another Ford
6 7 8
Replies
156
Views
12K
lowbudget50
lowbudget50
G
My 49 Plymouth coupe build
2
Replies
39
Views
4K
smallfoot
smallfoot
J
41-46 s10 swap pictures
2
Replies
25
Views
2K
Burgerman
Burgerman
lowbudget50
The legend of dirty joe!
2 3 4
Replies
70
Views
4K
Burgerman
Burgerman

Latest posts

Back
Top