36 Ford truck on Ranger

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The clutch/ transmission job is done with the floor back in and the clutch actuating rod and emergency brake adjusted.
There are some little, but horrible, things to fix and the oil to change.
 
Today I changed the oil in the '36 and fixed a gas leak in my mechanical fuel pump. This pump is left on there just for looks as I have an electric pump back there near the tank. I strongly believe that you need a sediment bowl on a hotrod or ---- what's the point, right?
For those of you that only believe 2/3 of my stories, here's a picture of the oil filler neck and the fuel pump, proving beyond a doubt that I did all that work.
 

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Yep, Bama, I have some boring old black hose with me for the day when I have to change, but I really wanted to run red see-through hoses for a while and be a real hotrodder.
Dozer, my tongue was firmly in my cheek there. I've been watching debates on U-tube lately and some people spout non-proof, violently, and think it's real proof. I see the humour in this ridiculousness. So you've been the victim of my twisted humour. I was just showing off my motor.
 
That last motor picture brought to my attention that I was always going to cover that 'eighties' power steering cap and make it look more 'fiftyish'. I found a really beat-up flathead oil filler cap and cut the guts out of it. Then I straightened it out, rounded it back into shape, and pounded out most of the dents. After sanding it aggressively I have to figure out how to mount it to the plastic 'eighties' cap and then paint it.
 
That last motor picture brought to my attention that I was always going to cover that 'eighties' power steering cap and make it look more 'fiftyish'. I found a really beat-up flathead oil filler cap and cut the guts out of it. Then I straightened it out, rounded it back into shape, and pounded out most of the dents. After sanding it aggressively I have to figure out how to mount it to the plastic 'eighties' cap and then paint it.

Epoxy?
 
I'd found a fifties tin filler cap to put over my 'eighties' power steering cap, but it was beat up a bit. Here it is straightened, sandblasted and primered. The eighties cap is also jammed inside.
A 'horrible' job that I was putting off, is removing the speedometer and lubricating it again. It came out better than I expected.
 

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I sprayed liquid Wrench on the speedo needle bushings and got them working smoothly, turning the unit with my cordless drill. Then I sprayed the same bushings with Fluid Film, and believe it or not, that was too thick of lubricant. The needle started sticking again in odd places, going up and coming down. So I had to clean the thick stuff out with more weasel-pi$$, and it got working better again. The first picture is my drill in second gear reverse and the needle goes smoothly back and forth. Third gear is almost a hundred; whoooa, what a rush! The second picture is the speedo back in the dash. It took a few tries.
I have been sanding and repriming my mock power-steering cap, until I got bored so I painted it.
 

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Thanks guys. Much as I like Liquid Wrench for some things, like penetrating, I still think that it won't last long without evaporating, so I should have used sewing machine oil. I wracked my brains to figure out a way to lubricate it occasionally without taking it out and disassembling it. I came up with ------ wracked brains, only.
 
I've always used powdered graphite on the cables. Comes in a little tube with a needle like end, slide the cable out a bit, shoot the graphite in. Spoiler alert, it's messy if you spill any or get it on your hands!

I've wondered if some kind of gun oil might work for a head unit. That, or some of the oil they use on fishing reels. Might be the same thing, I know Lucas sells one that is for both.
 
I'm going to be prepared next time, with gun oil or sewing machine oil.
Here's my finished power steering cap installed.
 

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