Engine stands - lets see them.

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maddog

Here he comes to save the day!
Joined
May 13, 2007
Messages
864
Location
SFV Southern California
I built a stand to run a flathead and it worked out well. I started it everyday for a while while messing with it to get it running good.

I want to gut a 350 trans I have to put on my 454 so I can fire it up. Any problems with this approach? Should I just use the good trans? Do I need a cooler?

Here is the flathead stand and the beginnings of the 454 stand.

I would like to see more.:D
 

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Why use a trans at all? Just build supports for the back of the engine and run it........................I'm having a tough time understanding your reasoning for running a trans other than to support the rear of the engine cuz starter bolts to the block and flywheel is stand alone from converter.
 
You can run the motor without the trans.Just dont bring it up to any kind of high RPM's.Or the flywheel may come apart on you.I actually have a stand that I need to pick up at one of my shops.It has spots for gauges and all that neat stuff.
 
I built one to run sprint car motors on that has castors to be able to roll it around (sorry I don't have any digital pics to attach). Since we don't use a flexplate or flywheel in the car and we run the p/s pump and fuel pump off the back of the cam (yes-between your legs), I had to make the stand so I could move the flexplate away from the motor enough to allow room for the fuel pump to bolt to the rear of the motor plate (obviously, don't need the p/s pump).

I bolt the u-joint to the back of the crank, same as in the car-it has a splined back half for driveshaft to slip inside. For the driveshaft, I took a jeep driveshaft with the same splines and shortened it to about 15" oal. The other end has a rear flange welded to it off of a busted steel crankshaft that I can mount the flexplate to. There is also a 1 7/16" solid cold-rolled shaft at that end of the driveshaft that protrudes a few inches past the flexplate-this is where I have a pillow block bearing to elevate the driveshaft roughly inline w/ the engine crankshaft. The racing starter mounts to a heavy plate to engage the flexplate without (wait for it--flexing!).

There is a steel shelf that sits in front of the radiator that houses a 5 gallon alcohol jug and has room for 2 batteries. It takes a lot of juice to crank over a 15:1 motor fast enought to start it on alky with 16 injectors! Sometimes we'll take the pump off and spin it with a drill to prime all those fuel lines before starting the motor. And of course I have a oil pressure & water temp gauge as well as a master fuel shutoff. We can run the same headers that we run on the car. Sounds wierd when you roll up the garage door and have the headers aimed outside-but it sounds really good a block away!

One tip-don't ever mount a battery close to your driveshaft! Originally, I had it mounted next to the driveshaft (about a foot between them), with a big heavy guard over top. Well, when the first driveshaft I made broke (motor was idling-about 1400 rpm), it busted through the guard and broke the battery-sending battery acid flying. I still have the jeans I was wearing that are beautifully air conditioned from acid burns.
 
We'll be running a motor in the next couple weeks on the stand-maybe I can borrow a digital camera and take some pics. If I do, I'll post them here.
 
Here You Go...

Only needed one battery to start this motor-just a little dry-sump 305 (about 500 hp)
 

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Last edited:
And Some More...
 

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and a few more...

The gray / blue injection is the 16 nozzle unit off of the aluminum 410-which is also what the bare block pics are of.
 

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I agree with 35master, that is one s***load of horsepower.:eek:

Oh yeah, the stand, thats nice too. :D Actually your stand has pushed the design of mine to a new level.

I wonder how crazy it is to put a load on the motor and measure the HP and torque?:confused:
 

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