50' Plymouth? swap

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50plymouths

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 22, 2011
Messages
50
Location
Mackinaw Illinois
Ok fellas I got a 50' Plymouth SD 4 dr I am wanting to put a bigger engine in it but steering box I've heard makes it tough to do what's your take on this? And what's my cheapest route?
 
Ok fellas I got a 50' Plymouth SD 4 dr I am wanting to put a bigger engine in it but steering box I've heard makes it tough to do what's your take on this? And what's my cheapest route?

It would probably help to see a photo first. :eek:

Toad
 
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here are some got to take more cause these are to close need overview
 
Well here it is I want power steering and power brakes so.... I have decided on getting a longbed s-10 frame and build the frame the way I want. Which is a 3.5"-4.5" ride height and for steep inclines have an air bag lift of 3-5 more inches. I know what your thinking mini trucking is for mini truckers but in my eyes I need too replace my floors so why not. I can still drive it until the frame is ready for the body which will take awhile with my schedule. Hope some of u guys agree I want cheap and this to me is my option $300 frame, engine 350 Chevy $500 with tranny and the frame has ton's of bolt on lowering and modification stuff cheap what do u fellas think?
 
If you are going to swap frames, I'd say that's going to take care of your steering box problem.

I had a 50 plymouth and I remember thinking that steering column/box was definitely in the way of a V8. You could put a bigger more modern 6 in it like a 300 Ford. Those are cheap and fairly plentiful.
 
Yeah but a v8 is easier to put in the s-10 frame with the bolt on motor mounts for the 350 swap which yes if I put this up on the hamb I would be flooded with guys telling me that it's stupid and leave the mini truck to the mini truckers topical dump crap. I say bull I want low and cheap that's why I say pull that frame for a modern one with proper hand brake,disc brakes and other stuff that is easy to bolt on rather than making something fit cause some swap meets have cheap stuff I got a side mirror for a buck that goes with my era of car and is better than what the idiot put on before I got it. Well hope you fellas agree cheap is always better expescially on the pocketbook lol

Thanks
Rob
 
Wired my 6v positive ground in reverse and it works no starter going wrong way or nothing it's only a myth. I am also going the 12v route which will give me more options to upgrade stuff. Only thing is doing this makes going to swap frame pointless since old one works and has been said to be overbuilt. I wonder if you could make the front power steering enabled or if it would be too much work? I've looked at electric assisted steering but they through that 3500 pound limit in your face . Got a lot to think about with my car
 
Using an s10 frame won't necessarily cure your steering box clearance problems. The s10 is front steer and the steering box sits way out front on the frame so that after you center the front wheels in the 50 plymouth front fender opening the box will be vary close to the grille.
I'm not saying don't use the s10 frame but you have to plan ahead for clearance near the grille and front fender.
I used an s10 frame under my 47 Chevy coupe because I wanted the late model power steering and brakes. I knew about the tight fit and because I'd done this before. In the pictures you can see that I will need a narrow radiator and I moved my engine back putting a doghouse in the firewall and by mounting the engine slightly off center to the passenger side but I still will need to use 2 u joints to get steering shaft clearance.
 

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Really I didn't know that I had been reading stuff on bolt in 350 motor mounts and stuff thanks for info. Man this car is getting tougher and tougher. I need to take welding classes cause I know nothing about it. Electric stuff I can do but cosmetic and major stuff I am lost. I need some close friends to help or focus both of my little boys into doing this stuff so they can help me lol... oh well back to the drawing board
 
You could always put in a chevy 6 fits great no major cutting other than making a cross member. I had made some front mounts for the motor and bolted down close to where the original motor was bolted down.
 

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I think for now I am going to keep my stuff original. I hooked up my alternator over weekend after switching wires around and ran car. I got new gauges and am in the process of hooking them up. The alternator charges the battery just fine and was so easy even I did it by myself with slight modification. The tachometer looks easy it hooks to plug wire with arrow going to the plug. I am going to make my own fuse box for this new stuff and wire it all color coded my way. I have done similar stuff with car stereos and amplifiers. And this car is so simple it's silly.
 
Well I had a old hot rodder tell me to get a Nova rear steer front clip for my Plymouth so I can have upgraded steering and brakes. He put one in his 40 Plymouth and he knows his stuff when it comes to cars around my area. I might have to check it out anybody got any ideas?
 
You're kidding, right? A frame swap is a HUGE project, because, well, the s10 is designed for a truck and you have a old car...why make work?

The steering is easily dealt with........
101_0305.jpg

Offset the engine to the pass side 1½" - 2" and your done.
Photo is from this thread...
http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=28578
As for the rear axle, if you use a gm part then you have two different bolt patterns. Late Jeep and Explorer both offer disc or drum brakes and other than welding on new spring perches.....Look, this has been covered many many times over on the Hamb, check in there and search.
 
Well I have thought about it since it's easier to find parts at parts stores instead of trial and error. The s10 frame is narrow enough to fit and would let me get the ride height I want. I want to ride around at 2"-2 1/2" off ground and have air ride to get over big stuff and up steep inclines. Also I want disc brakes on front and rear and put a bigger gas tank in so I can go farther. Since I would use a different frame I can still drive around while I get frame ready for the swap. My only problem I have heard is the steering being out front of crossmember not behind. I wonder if that can be changed to the back or maybe get a bolt on conversion. I have never worked on cars as much as this one and I want to make it last and be safe for my 3 kiddos. I have a few guys that say keep it running and if I do anything major do it slow and in easy steps or find something close in size to modify so you can take your time and do it right. I have looked up on hamb and other sites about stuff but I just feel doing the frame like this I can get help and make it adjustable plus newer. I still want to run my Flathead but I want a t5 behind it and use the s10 rearend that way I got a parking brake. Thanks for info wayfarer I have found tons of info the past year since I've had my car.
 
Certainly understand the concept. Your car and your money.

For others with similar thoughts I'll offer the following bits to ponder:
•As stated, The Jeep and Exploder axles are simple to install. New spring perches for the 1¾" rear leafs are available at any trailer supply store.
•Disc brake kits for the front are available from www.rustyhope.com and they
use common late model parts.
•Dropped spindles are on the shelf at Fatman Fab.
•If you keep the flat 6 then steering is not an issue, if you install a v-8 then you need the correct exhaust manifold to clear the steering shaft (photo/link above). Some v-8 swaps may benefit from a rack & pinion setup.
•The stock front suspension is a well designed system. The top shock mounts defies logic but is easily moved.
•Since it is a typical A-arm design, the front is easily bagged.
••There are several ways to get a 5-speed behind the flatty; If you have the 'normal' 3speed trans then you can use the t-5 with an adapter or even do it yourself if you have a decent shop.
The Ford Ranger/Mazda trans can be fitted to the same 3-speed bell and it looks to be even easier (www.p15-d24.com and search for 'ranger'...swap is in progress).
I have an adapter for the Mopar transmissions like the AX5 or AX15 which replaces the stock bellhousing.

Regards
 
The tk5 sounds very promising. Does it allow you to use the original tranny and motor mounts? I haven't heard much about using a explorer rear end. It should bolt in with slight modification then? Does rustyhope make the kit or just tell you how to do it cause I am not a mechanical engineer lol. Changing to the t5 or tk5 will I need a new drive shaft? Thanks for the info wayfarer
 
Just a reminder, the trans swaps will require the 'normal' 3speed bellhousing, NOT the gyro-matic/Hy-drive gizmo that has a fluid coupler (kinda looks like a torque converter but isn't).
You can see some details on the TK5 swap here:
http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=19456&highlight=ranger
Robert is not working in a machine shop, just his garage.
Since the bellhousing remains stock then there are no changes to the mounts on the bell. The trans should still have its own mount.
I can't imagine how you would ever get so lucky as to swap trans and rear axle and not have to make a new driveshaft...:(
You'll have to measure the drum to drum width of your stock rear axle and compare to the Explorer and decide if it is close enough for you. It is a common swap for this year/make/model. New spring perches must be installed because the early Mopars used a 1¾" spring which, of course, is not used today. You also get your choice of disc or drum brakes, with or without trac-lock (sure-grip/ positraction/ etc).
Charlie (www.rustyhope.com) has a complete disc brake swap package and can offer guidance on other things like the master cylinder. Charlie also has split manifolds for the flat 6...;)

Hope that this helps.
 

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