Cutting Out Old Floor Boards Help

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maverickmk

maverickmk

Rebel Rodder
Joined
Apr 1, 2011
Messages
9,149
Location
Cocoa FL
I need some advice from the welding experts. I know this isn't exactly a rat rod (although it is ratty right now) but for my '67 Camaro I need to replace some of the floor pan in the foot well area of both sides. What I need help with is the best tool to cut out the old floor & any tips on cutting it out & replacing it with the repro pans I have.
One thing to keep in mind is that I don't have the proper tool(s) to do the removal portion of the job so I will need to purchase it. If you have any suggestions as to brand, size etc. that would be helpful as well.
 
Cut off wheels....easiest for me.....

maverickmk said:
I need some advice from the welding experts. I know this isn't exactly a rat rod (although it is ratty right now) but for my '67 Camaro I need to replace some of the floor pan in the foot well area of both sides. What I need help with is the best tool to cut out the old floor & any tips on cutting it out & replacing it with the repro pans I have.
One thing to keep in mind is that I don't have the proper tool(s) to do the removal portion of the job so I will need to purchase it. If you have any suggestions as to brand, size etc. that would be helpful as well.
Click to expand...

JMHO can pick up a cheap air grinder at HF....a few 3" cut off wheels and you should be good to go.....if no air, then a 41/2" electric angle grinder with cut off wheels....works good or both...I keep a stock of 4 1/2" HF angle grinders get them when they are 9 bucks on sale....and a good pair of eye protection that fully encloses your eyes....cause the crap will be flying and rusty metal sucks in the eyeballs.....:eek:
 
I'll add to that. HOT rusty metal sucks in the eye. Get a full face shield. Also get a few flapper sanding discs to tweak edges and general clean up - not from HF though, their sanding stuff is useless. The electric grinder will come with a 1/4" grinding wheel that is good for cleaning up corners and such. If you go air, buy one for it, you don't want to use a cut off wheel for shaving of edges, that's asking for it to explode.
 
Amen brother.!!!....

Sam_Fear said:
I'll add to that. HOT rusty metal sucks in the eye. Get a full face shield. Also get a few flapper sanding discs to tweak edges and general clean up - not from HF though, their sanding stuff is useless. The electric grinder will come with a 1/4" grinding wheel that is good for cleaning up corners and such. If you go air, buy one for it, you don't want to use a cut off wheel for shaving of edges, that's asking for it to explode.
Click to expand...

I buy all my cut off wheels and flap discs and such at Leighhigh valley abrasives....cheap and well made....last 10 times longer than any others I've used....
 
Grinder wheels 1/16th" thick if you dont have shears, and depending on your patches some may need to drill out spot welds to get a exact fit.

DW8706-DW8720.jpg
 
IMO, that's an area you need to be careful with so I use a small air powered hand saw.

Reciprocating Air Saw

Be sure not to cut the floor bracing and only cut the floor pan. The pan is spot welded to the bracing. Some people drill out those spot welds but I am too impatient for that. There are plenty of good car mag articles online you can search for. Plus, a small saw does not throw sparks.

ISores
 
I have a 6" angle grinder but wasn't sure if it was a little over kill for floor boards. I also have a large sawzall, but I was thinking it would be too large to get into there. As for the reciprocating air saw, does it require a lot of air? I have a small 20 gallon compressor in need of replacement right now. Saving up for a 60 gallon.
 
maverickmk said:
As for the reciprocating air saw, does it require a lot of air? I have a small 20 gallon compressor in need of replacement right now. Saving up for a 60 gallon.
Click to expand...

Mav,
I don't think they take that much air & HF has a coupon for them in most car mags right now for $9.99.

ISore
 
Not hijack this thread, but I also have to fix a rotted corner of my floorpan. .

The previous owner "repaired" this by slathering it over with fiberglass. What's the best way to remove this to get to the metal underneath? [S
 
maverickmk said:
I have a 6" angle grinder but wasn't sure if it was a little over kill for floor boards. I also have a large sawzall, but I was thinking it would be too large to get into there. As for the reciprocating air saw, does it require a lot of air? I have a small 20 gallon compressor in need of replacement right now. Saving up for a 60 gallon.
Click to expand...

I have a small CP airsaw, it requires 5.5 CFM @90 PSI. I rarely use it because it's kinda slow and easily "sticks" in sheetmetal cuts. I prefer the cutoff disc in most cases.


BigIrish said:
Not hijack this thread, but I also have to fix a rotted corner of my floorpan. .

The previous owner "repaired" this by slathering it over with fiberglass. What's the best way to remove this to get to the metal underneath? [S
Click to expand...

I don't know of a chemical stripper that can cut thru fiberglass resins. I think you're stuck grinding it off. Messy, I know. :eek: If it was laid over rust, paint, or undercoating, a heat gun and a scraper might peel it off???
 
Thanks for the tips, I appreciate the help.
Another question: when I get to the welding in the floors part, do I want to have a perfect match on the cut or can I overlap?
 
Have to make sure the lap joint is sealed...

maverickmk said:
Thanks for the tips, I appreciate the help.
Another question: when I get to the welding in the floors part, do I want to have a perfect match on the cut or can I overlap?
Click to expand...

lap joints have a tendency to rust from the inside if not sealed to the elements on both top and bottom......if you seal them from both sides, they will last ...butt welds are nice (better) if you are good at it as you can fully weld the seam grind it down and it's one full sheet of metal...and paint it or such...if you are a good welder and know the process it's best to butt weld....but lap joints are easy and look fine...you'll need to get a flanger to do the edges if you want a smooth joint and not a high spot if you are overlapping panels...... JMHO
 

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