Engine lift

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That link wouldn't come up, but I found it anyway on YouTube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CimBj1-MJlA


I've never seen one of those but it sure looks like a nice piece, and I can see how it would work well. Let us know how you like it. What do they get for it ?

There have been reports of the Harbor Freight ones breaking and dropping motors, so this would be a great alternative.


Don
 
Nice design, looks like it could use a nut on the other end so you can adjust from front or back of engine.

Like others, I won't use the carb mount to pull a engine.
 
We have used the regular engine lift plates for years and have never had one break or pull threads out.

On that note we make sure to use all grade 8 bolts with the proper thread pitch.

As far as what all we lift we won't lift more than an engine and trans. A buddy told us he did engine trans and transfer case and that would get scarey:eek:

Well hopefully I have it in a few days and I will be messing with it and let y'all know how it works.

Thanks Don for getting a better link.
 
We had this discussion one time on another forum about lifting an engine by the four 5/16 bolts on the intake. Lots of guys said they do it all the time and it works well but I have always been afraid to try it. I know I am being dumb for feeling that way because they do sell the tools to bolt down there and so many people do it successfully, but it just scares me too badly to try.

I also run multiple carb intakes so that might be an issue, I see these used primarily with single four barrel intakes. But the one David posted looks like the best of the bunch, with it's adjustability, and they even make adapters to go onto a flathead and other engines.

It will be interesting to see how you like it when it arrives. I'm betting it works great, from what I can see in that video.

Don
 
I also think it's scary, but I've done it several times. Most recently with a heavy 351M with the cast iron FMX tranny attached. Lifted it by the stock 2bbl intake with no probs. That's 770 lbs!!

I also slipped while trying to lower the beast and opened the release valve too much. I came sailing down fast and I closed the valve just in time to keep it from smacking the floor.

So in that instant I bet the weight was double. Neither it nor the Harbor Freight lift broke
 
I also slipped while trying to lower the beast and opened the release valve too much. I came sailing down fast and I closed the valve just in time to keep it from smacking the floor.

So in that instant I bet the weight was double. Neither it nor the Harbor Freight lift broke

Sounds like a good way to test it:eek: but I will leave that style testing to you:D
 
HIghly recommend

This thing is awesome!!![cl

I have had it on the lift for 2 weeks now I can spin it and adjust all angles I would recommend everyone get one of these it works great and as stated in all ads

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Looks like it's alot along the lines of this guy that I like.

Except this one, you have to find another way to hook to the motor.

I don't think I would want to do a motor without it.

Cheers

P_00254.jpg
 
Looks like it's alot along the lines of this guy that I like.

Except this one, you have to find another way to hook to the motor.

I don't think I would want to do a motor without it.

Cheers

P_00254.jpg

Yes very similar in function but with the one I have you don't have the long chains to each end of the heads just bolt to the intake and your good to go. And they make adapters for all different motors.
 
This thing is awesome!!![cl

I have had it on the lift for 2 weeks now I can spin it and adjust all angles I would recommend everyone get one of these it works great and as stated in all ads

4.jpg

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I have never seen one of these before!!! It seems like a good idea! I just use the cheap plate that bolts to the intake. Maybe it is time to upgrade! Of course it has been quite a while since I pulled a motor from anything.....
 
I bought a used engine lift - cherry picker a couple of days ago. It's extremely heavy duty, and is missing the hydraulic jack. (I was thinking that I could use my 4 ton bottle jack, but realize now that it would not have enough travel.) I've never used one of these, because I always lifted with a chain hoist hanging from either an A-frame, or the ceiling joists. I was looking for one, because the only place I have to do anything like this is a basement garage, so I can't use the ceiling joists. (It is sheetrocked, anyway.) Plus, I figured it would be nice to be able to shove the deal around to line things up. But the chain hoist has the advantage of going up & down faster when you need to, and you can leave it hanging, and it's not going to creep down, and you can't get it going down out of control, like someone mentioned, with having opened the valve too far.

So I'm wondering if anyone has ever substituted a mechanical farm jack for the hydraulic cylinder. Also, is Northern Tool about the same as Harbor Freight? (ie, junk)

I really shouldn't have gone for this one, because it's over kill for me, and doesn't fold up. Should have waited for a smaller one. Oh well, buyer's remorse.
 
HF and Northern do sell replacement hydraulic pumps for these and, as far as I know, they are ok.

The shop that just built Dans new motor had a regular cherry picker type engine lift, but they updated the ram to an air over hydraulic unit because they pick up motors all day long. It worked great and if our regular one ever goes out I am going to do the same thing. Air over hydraulics work on your air compressor, so you simply push a button for them to extend.

Don
 
HF and Northern do sell replacement hydraulic pumps for these and, as far as I know, they are ok.

The shop that just built Dans new motor had a regular cherry picker type engine lift, but they updated the ram to an air over hydraulic unit because they pick up motors all day long. It worked great and if our regular one ever goes out I am going to do the same thing. Air over hydraulics work on your air compressor, so you simply push a button for them to extend.

Don

Thanks, Don.
The air sounds pretty nice, but I'm rather doubtful that my small air compressor would power that.

What about single vs double cylinder?

About the question of necessary travel. The boom on the lift I got is 48" fully retracted from the pivot point out to the point where the chain down to the engine is attached, and the connection point for the hydraulics is at 12 1/2" out from the pivot point. When it is extended out to where there is about 15” inside the outer boom channel, it reaches out +/- 80”. (There is no stop on this to prevent the boom from being over extended. How much should be inside the outer channel? Judging from the set bolt marks on the top of the inside boom extension, someone actually extended it out to the point where only 2 ½” was still inside the outer channel!)

Anyway, my 4 ton bottle jack has a total travel (total lift distance) of just 5”. Will that be enough, or will I need to buy a longer cylinder jack? (48” divided by 12 ½” = 3.84. 3.84 X 5” = only a bit over 19”. I realize that that is not enough, but if the boom is extended out to 60”, then I get around 24” of lift. Assuming that I am doing the right sort of math here.) I’m thinking that long term I will need a jack with much longer travel, but just wondering what you all think about this.
 
My lift has 4 holes in the boom with a pin that goes through both sections, the shorter the boom, the more weight it can safely lift. I think there is about 1' inside the outer section when it is in the longest hole.

You need one of the jacks designed for a lift, about 2.5' to 3' long. 24" of boom travel isn't much if the boom is extended, closed it can be a lot. I have had mine up as high as it would go more than once while pulling a engine and tranny out of something, and even then I could have used a few more inches because the tranny wanted to drag going over the core support.
 

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