49 f1

Heres what we R starting with. The plan is to use cab, bed, some frame, and motor. No paint, suicide front off 37 ford, flip rear axle, and use a set of aftermarket 35 ford wheels 15x8 rear and 14x6 front. Piecrust Gangster whitewall 10 inch rear and BF goodrich on front. Here is the jewell the day I bought it in West Virginia. It is acctually real solid, better shape than me. The guy I bought from had already redone frame and mounted BOSS 302 and auto trans. For now I'm going to use that setup. The dump i bought was outside in field for 30+ years. Old farmer died and got off of his wife. Rough but they left the windows up a +. The 53 was same way but hood was down and flathead I think will run, 23,000. original miles 1 owner.

here's some progress

some ive been doing since snow stopped

Nice looking truck.
Torchie.

Looks like a great start!

nice [dr

Couple Pics of the Dump i finally got out field

Pretty much gone but still had some goodies inside

are you keeping the logos on the doors? those are sweet!!!!

logos

yep i have locals fighting to own one. Go figure

Psycho said:

some ive been doing since snow stopped

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Looks like you have your front spring perch under the spring , Most of the time you see the perch sitting on top of the spring . The way you have it the whole weight of the front of the truck is hanging on those 2 u bolts . They aren't called " suicide "for no reason .

spring

It was easiest to get more drop. I plan on making a top mount over it. Yea not real hip either on two 3/8's U bolts.
The cross member I made from 15000 lb Frac Iron its about 1/2 inch thick. Plenty of meat to bolt and weld to. I tend to over kill on some things. But like you said dont want to commit suicide either. I finished my tailgate last night. I cut the back out of the dump cab for the steel.

Psycho said:

It was easiest to get more drop. I plan on making a top mount over it. Yea not real hip either on two 3/8's U bolts.
The cross member I made from 15000 lb Frac Iron its about 1/2 inch thick. Plenty of meat to bolt and weld to. I tend to over kill on some things. But like you said dont want to commit suicide either. I finished my tailgate last night. I cut the back out of the dump cab for the steel.

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In your intro you said you were going to flip the rear axle , but it looks like you haven't done it . Got to thinking about my 47 . I flipped the rear axle , which actually means the whole rear end is hanging by the u bolts . I think the reason for concern when front end is done this way and not when rear is done this way is two fold . If front lets go your frame is gonna nose dive into the ground and if one or the other set of U bolts lets go in the rear the body /frame will only drop to the axle . Had to rethink this for a moment as I was thinking maybe I had created an unsafe condition on my own PU .

IAM-LDS-2 said:

In your intro you said you were going to flip the rear axle , but it looks like you haven't done it . Got to thinking about my 47 . I flipped the rear axle , which actually means the whole rear end is hanging by the u bolts . I think the reason for concern when front end is done this way and not when rear is done this way is two fold . If front lets go your frame is gonna nose dive into the ground and if one or the other set of U bolts lets go in the rear the body /frame will only drop to the axle . Had to rethink this for a moment as I was thinking maybe I had created an unsafe condition on my own PU .

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You're definitely on the right track with that thinking. In addition, the problem with having it supported by the U-bolts in the front is that there are a lot more variables at play. First of all, it's supported by two small u-bolts, whereas the rear end is supported by four (and the rear u-bolts I've seen are usually larger diameter). Then there's also the issue of the mounting being in the center of the spring, so there's a long lever arm pulling on those u-bolts from the wheel to the center of the axle (spring), which multiplies the force applied at the u-bolts. If it's mounted underneath, then it's pushing on the mounting bracket attached to the frame instead of the u-bolts. The lever is much less on the rear end, since the distance from wheel to mounting point is less, and again you have more bolts. There's also less unsupported articulation with parallel leafs than a transverse leaf setup.

Having the rear end on top of the leafs is not a problem, and some vehicles actually came from the factory that way (S-10's, for example), but it's a completely different engineering situation than the front. And as you alluded to, if something happens in the back you can still try and steer with the front. If something happens in the front, you might end up doing artistic flips or in someone else's grill.

Great job on the tailgate.[cl

Door Art

My painter just sent me Text that my other door is done. She's pretty good for never painting on anything but canvas.

neat

that is cool[cl

Later

rear end / and steer box

Decided to leave it the way it came from factory. I stacked the frame and it came out low enough for me. My driveway drops way down to get to my house. No way i could lower like I wanted so I took up gap with 6inch semi stacks. I figure they will bend to fit the road. Might have to mount a winch on front just in case. LOL Im in southeastern Ohio alot of bad roads to go over. Most guy here have lift kits and 33'' monster mudders. My biggest problem right now is steering box. I left it in the stock position and the draglink comes up between the batwings. When I mount to spindles it hits when wheels R turned. I thought about Z ing the drag link so it would be above all that. Dont know how that would work. Im pretty sure i could make one strong enough but ? Anybody ever tried this with success.

Psycho said:

Decided to leave it the way it came from factory. I stacked the frame and it came out low enough for me. My driveway drops way down to get to my house. No way i could lower like I wanted so I took up gap with 6inch semi stacks. I figure they will bend to fit the road. Might have to mount a winch on front just in case. LOL Im in southeastern Ohio alot of bad roads to go over. Most guy here have lift kits and 33'' monster mudders. My biggest problem right now is steering box. I left it in the stock position and the draglink comes up between the batwings. When I mount to spindles it hits when wheels R turned. I thought about Z ing the drag link so it would be above all that. Dont know how that would work. Im pretty sure i could make one strong enough but ? Anybody ever tried this with success.

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Check Dirtyrats 50's Ford F-1 build. He had to modify his drag link as well.
Nice art work on the doors.
Torchie.

bed and grill

Got some more done Sat. Made some garage art and mounted to Tail gate. Old Harley rods & some nuts. Sized rough cut oak, clean and clear coated. Put midget stripper pole in bed, temporary mount LOL. Finished up Grill and mounted to Rad Mounts. I'm going to cut hood down middle and Piano hinge it. Hopefully rain holds off here cause I'm doing all outside in driveway.

Nice job on the tailgate art. [cl
Torchie.

Skulls

We'll not a lot to report but got some more art finished. Triumph piston shifter knob and V 8 emblem done from old pistons and rods out of my 57 pan head Harley. Working on steering today.