Stupid question of the day:)

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ronnysplymouth

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 13, 2007
Messages
681
Location
Soap Lake, wa.
Steering column/wheel placement....................What (besides comfort) dictates where to have the steering wheel, as in how far from the dash? What angle? distance from the floor? It seems like a dumb question but I dont want it to look out of place and I am scratch building so it can go anywhere I want it too..................I looked for examples in the pic archive but all the cars are at an angle so its hard to tell how they are setting.................I'm running suicide doors also and want to be able to get past it easy enough when getting in and out of the car but dont want my arms fully extended just to drive it.:confused: . Thanks
 
I think comfort is the only issue. Put it where you want. For ease of entry / exit, you might consider a steering wheel "quick release". Always thought those were cool.
 
I also have (smallish) suicide doors and finding the right place for the wheel has consumed a lot of my time and I still can't come up with a static position I like(without haveing ever driven the car anyway) I am seriosly thinking about a fatman wheel.
 
position?

Just a thought......I have a friend who has a 34 sedan with suicide doors and he is a big man so he installed a tilt wheel whithout a key(key is on dash) and he has the tilt clocked 90 deg. so that when tilted, it tilts towards the center of the car instead of up. Might try it and see if that way will suit you!
my $.02
Tim
 
Just a thought......I have a friend who has a 34 sedan with suicide doors and he is a big man so he installed a tilt wheel whithout a key(key is on dash) and he has the tilt clocked 90 deg. so that when tilted, it tilts towards the center of the car instead of up. Might try it and see if that way will suit you!
my $.02
Tim

Thats some good thinking.
 
Actually, that's a good question Ronnysplymouth. I'll tell you how I do it. I start by installing, or mocking up a driver's seat. I try to use the seat that will remain in the car in order to determine an optimal steering wheel/column position. I then get a dowel stick to simulate a steering column and something round to simulate a steering wheel. Don't laugh but a paper plate tacked to the end of the dowel stick works nicely. This setup is light, cheap, and can be manuvered easily. In addition, you can determine approximate steering column length and where then hole needs to be made in the floor/firewall because you make the dowel short enough that it doesn't extend into the engine compartment.

I then position the mock column/wheel into place, choosing a location that is centered with the seat and is at a comfortable angle and length. After that is accomplished, I tape the mock column/wheel into place and fab/build the mounts and/or order a column drop, taking into account the actual diameter of the real column. I mark the location where the dowel contacts the floor/firewall and make the hole for the actual column.

Somtimes column position can be a compromise, depending on what column/box or rack that you are using, and what's in the way on the engine compartment side of the floor/firewall. Hope this helps.
 
A lot of it has to do with comfort,and what will fit.

Lil' John Buttera suggested that the centerline of the steering wheel
should intersect with the axle centerline,viewed from the side.

One thing to watch,is clearance on your knees getting out.On my dad's late model barge,I bang my right knee every time,because the Ford column/dash is too bulky.

Tilt wheels are cool,but most people set them once,and forget them.

Caddy used a tilt and telescoping column,if you want to get fancy.
Don't know what years.
 
I sit in the car with a steering wheel, with the seat where I want it, for leg room. Just be careful so if you use a bigger steering wheel the door handles and window cranks clear the wheel with your hands on it. I use a quick disconnect hub, and make my own steering wheels, so I can dish them, or make them flat to change the depth. (Oh yea, I need to post a picture of that wheel)
 
I do it like the others suggested. I put a seat at the approximate height it will end up being, then plop my butt down in it and hold the steering wheel I intend on using out in front of me. Not only do you want your arms to rest comfortably and maybe even be able to rest on the door top, but also you want to make sure the wheel is not in your line of sight. You want to be looking over the wheel.

I am going to redo the one in my T sometime down the road. It is a little too far away from me (I did that for ease of entry when climbing over the side) but I find my arms are too extended for my liking. That also causes erratic steering motion somewhat.

Don
 
Oh, here is how I shimmed up the wheel in my Dodge truck. I used deep well sockets to extend it out to where it feels good. I want to use that big steering wheel, so I had to play some games to avoid the rim being in front of my eyes.

Don
 

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Also consider the seat angles at the same time.

The seat bottom and backrest should both be angled back.
Just like most factory stuff.

I see some cars,the seat back is vertical,
and the seat bottom is parallel with the floor.
And not much padding.

Makes a Church Pew look comfy.
 
Thanks everyone for your input................I forgot to mention it will be cowl steering (thats the plan at least) and all the donor parts I have are off a 65 Polara including column and box but seering wheel is not purchased yet and I like the idea of a quick release hub.
 
Also consider the seat angles at the same time.

The seat bottom and backrest should both be angled back.
Just like most factory stuff.

I see some cars,the seat back is vertical,
and the seat bottom is parallel with the floor.
And not much padding.

Makes a Church Pew look comfy.
Yes I just built the framing for the seat and has an angle on the back and will be padded on bottom to give an angle somewhat when upholstered
 
Now the trick will be,figuring out a quick release hub
with an operating horn button,in the stock position.

With cowl steer,there are many options.
 
I would love to do cowl steering:raise the box way up,and run a
much longer pitman arm like they use on the Sprint Cars and DIRT Modifieds.

Then use one of the offset "steering quickeners" they sell for the IMCA cars,turned around backwards,to get the overall ratio back where it belongs.


If the Quickener is 2:1,then the Pitman Arm could be twice as long as stock.

Should probably move the steering box forward a little,so you can
still open the drivers door with the wheels turned to the right.

Definately want the Drag Link parallel with the Hair Pins.
Ideally,they would also be close to the same length.
 
But make sure you can get your pedals,and feet,in there

Some of the Midget boxes get mounted pretty low in street rods.
Ok,if you have small feet.
 

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