THAT build

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skull

''SARCASM: just one of his many talents.''
Joined
Apr 12, 2009
Messages
5,905
Location
wet side, washington state
THAT build for those who asked[P

l named the chassis "THAT" because everone who sees it goes, "WHAT THE HE!! lS THAT" or "WHY THE HE!! THEY DID THEY D0 THAT":confused:


l raised up the rear-end to about 8 inches.

searching the CL ads in the free section about 10 years ago it read "JUNK T PARTS, COME AND GET THEM". he had a whole bunch of rusted T parts, 7 192O to 1925 cowls and 3 doors, rear tub parts, quarter panels and lots of odds & ends. some off touring cars, some l have no idea about.

since THAT has a curved chassis measuring 6O inches at the widest point in the middle l devised an idea to fix that by welding enough cowls together and make a cage in the front to mount them to making it about 5 feet wide across the cowl area and making a custom fire-wall. gives plenty of leg room front to rear and side to side.

l figure making it will take three cowls made into one 5 feet wide so when we put the sides on it will be straight down or just slightly curved when we put the sides on. doors will open and the rear tubs are going to be trimmed to fit snug around the rear-end out croppings the suspension is bolted to with a set of 4-link bars to help keep the rear-end in place and if need be a set of shocks. rear-end will be exposed, kinda hanging out in the air at the back.

we are going to have to trim the rear frame between the frame rails to get the driveshaft to work, it will be removed for clearance and reinforced to be safe.

a 1970's caddy 4 U joint turbo 4OO drive shaft shortend and with a little mod will work great with the disc brake 8.8 ford rear-end. the round pinion connecting bolt pattern to connect the rear-end/drive-shaft parts of the 2 together will work great by drilling out the U joint/drive-line side about a 1/16 inch. funny how parts from 2 generations apart line up together so well.

there is going to be a roll-bar attached to the rear frame top side to side and the radiator will be mounted in the rear behind the passengers. it will have the fan shrouded and help to be cooled with a electric fan.

funky round aluminum tank mounted in the rear for a gas tank.

steering and steering column, not sure yet.

hurst cable shifter and what is left of 1964 chevelle chrome console l have had laying around for-ever.

mis matched black bucket seats and 4 way race harness seat belts attached to the steel floor and roll bar.

more updates soon;

Later :cool:
 

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more

custom windshield will have to be cut and installed to the stock windshield stanchions.

caddy drive line pics. weird how the GM designers used 4 U-joints.
someone said the technical name for this configuration is a Double Cardan joint.

the body will be stretched out to fit the length of the chassis by one to two feet depending on the mods needed to make the body panels fit and look pleasing to the eye. l hate the off balance look some rods have.

Later :cool:
 

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thoughts

l raised the rear of the chassis about 8 inches by taking a 198O camaro rear sway bar lifted the rear-end by sticking 2 inches in the leaf spring ends and using 4 link bars on the bottom of the rear-end housing attached to the chassis to stabilize it.

if needed l can always add shocks.

Later :cool:
 

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cowl

the plan is to build a support cage to mount the cowl to that will strengthen the frontal area of passenger area is started to form in head and will gives us a place for brake pedal/master cylinder and door mounting points.

not exactly like the pics but that is the general idea.

Later:cool:
 

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Looks like an old RV water tank, skull. If it is, I'll offer some friendly advice:

- It'll have some scale and mineral deposits in it... stuff you don't want in your carburetor. I don't recall how to get that crap out, but it can be done.

- It might be lined and if it is, probably not compatible with gasoline.

- Kindly disregard if you know these things already. ;)

.
 
gunk inside it

doc- "It might be lined and if it is, probably not compatible with gasoline."

that is what l was thinking too, have a friend who can boil it out in radiator tank at his work shop , l figure it'll take care of the gunk inside it.

Later:cool:
 
doc- "It might be lined and if it is, probably not compatible with gasoline."

that is what l was thinking too, have a friend who can boil it out in radiator tank at his work shop , l figure it'll take care of the gunk inside it.

Later:cool:

Cool build skull, putting an aluminum tank into a caustic soda dip tank in a rad shop, will leave you with out an aluminum tank :eek: just a steaming bubbly mess.:D When I worked the Rad/Muffler shop in Dawson we had a kid that thought putting his aluminum rad core in the tank to clean it was a good idea, even back in them days a new core cost him over $100.
 
tank dip

yea, he said that the regular dip would ruin it but they have a dip for softer metal that is not to caustic. just has to soak longer.

the other option is the local trade school has an apprentice welding class that is always looking for stuff to weld, cut at the end opposite of the filler, clean it very thoroughly, maybe take a small chunk out to fit between the frame rails better and have them reweld it.

0R buy a new one.


Later:cool:
 
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Hope your frame/body idea works Skull. If it was me, I'd just cut out the curved belly portion and weld in straight pieces to get a more reasonable width. Still might have to widen the body a bit, but not as much.[S
 
Hope your frame/body idea works Skull. If it was me, I'd just cut out the curved belly portion and weld in straight pieces to get a more reasonable width. Still might have to widen the body a bit, but not as much.[S
This suggestion crossed my mind, too. But, how many T-buckets do you see that will sit 3 or 4 wide? :D I'd ride in it!

How about a rolling hot tub? :D [ddd

[P[P
 
dash

"How about a rolling hot tub?":D[ddd


a hot tub time machine, l will have:rolleyes:


a friend donated a 1960ish truck dash, gotta shorten it a little bit thru the middle and trim to fit, then make a custom gauge mounting panel to replace the stock one.


Later :cool:
 

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not sure,

he has a couple, that is the pic sent but it may not be the actual one l end up with, will get pics of it and post them of the dash l am using.


4 pm and a update on dash year, told me his recollection is a 1965 or 1966 he pulled it out of.


Later :cool:
 
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stuff

l got the headlights and buckets today, going to give the several little halogens in the new style headlights a try, built in turn signals and running lights helps by not having to wire them separate and find mounting places.



Later :cool:
 

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I really like those style of dash.
62 C10 ?

he has a couple, that is the pic sent but it may not be the actual one l end up with, will get pics of it and post them of the dash l am using.

4 pm and a update on dash year, told me his recollection is a 1965 or 1966 he pulled it out of.

The dash in that pic is a '60-'63. The '64-'66 dash is way more straight and plain looking.
 
tbi to carb

weird carb/intake set-up for THAT.

a friend had a dually he was going to change from TBl to carbed. ended up selling the truck so he gave me this 454 big block chevy edelbrock TBl intake he's not ever going to use.

so in the true spirit of use what ya have theory for hot/rat rod building l am using the TBl with some reverse engineering with the cheap low dollar, free parts and stuff l had in the shop hanging on the wall for a long-long time[ddd

l am making the set-up by taking a TBl adapter plate and with a little dremmel work on the 4-barrel spacer/adapter it should make a 6OO carb work on the intake, may look a little funky and l wonder what it will run like, but l like experimenting and the car is just for fun anyway.

the only two parts l have $$ in is the transdapt adapter and the carb rebuild kit.

Later :cool:
 

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valve covers

my stock ones have dents and look horrible but on D'BAY l got a set of stamped flamed ones for cheaper than a set of stock ones.

don't have to clean and paint or work on the stock ones, to me that is a good thing, l like the remove & replace sometimes[cl

Later :cool:
 

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