"Bickle" 1948 3100

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haha thanks binder

the bumtangle bracket is this one, the rear cab/front bed mount.

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it is stitch welded on the top and bottom where it touches the frame, and it is fully welded around that whole trapezoid in the center. removing it is super amounts of fun, (its not super amounts of fun) and you have to remove it on a longbed because the AD rear cab stand goes right there.

but an ext cab, you only need to remove the front portion of it so the AD cab doesnt hit the cab mount, and the rear AD cab mount sits well forward of it so you dont even need to grind the front portion off.
 

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shortened up the frame today, only took about 3 hours, all I have left is to weld the bottom side of the frame. did 6.5 inches, the ext cab is 122.9" and the AD is 116", but its known that the AD front wheel is thought to be just a hair too far back, and the S10 wheelbase gets shorter as you lower it, so I settled on 116.4". I did 117 on kechi and could have scooted the bed up a half inch.

marked

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I welded stanchions to the s10 cab mounts (because I will cut them off later) after making certain the frame was mostly level front to back and side to side (then I let the alpine play).

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I also chocked the front and rear of the front wheels. these chocks actually come with the S10 jack setup, I honestly never knew what they were for.

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nothing ventured nothing gained.

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slide it back together.

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measure 60 times cross and straight, clamp it, and weld it up

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hello 116.5" wheelbase.

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tomorrow I will try to get the motor mounts in, then pressure wash and paint, then motor/trans reinstalled.

my buddy south of town sent me a picture of my forklift, just waiting. anyone have a way to haul 10k lbs because I dont. :rolleyes:

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Nice job on the frame.[cl As for the fork lift I don't have a way to move it. A company I worked at drove theirs over the road 20 some mile when they moved locations.
 
~200 miles round trip, $3.95 a mile for a 5 ton rollback. :eek:


my friend got a tow rig after blowing his up and now his trailer is down. :confused:

OUCH!!!! :eek::eek::eek: I wish I could get $4 a mile! I only average about $2 a loaded mile, so that'd be about a $100 trip for me.:rolleyes:
 
OUCH!!!! :eek::eek::eek: I wish I could get $4 a mile! I only average about $2 a loaded mile, so that'd be about a $100 trip for me.:rolleyes:


5 ton? because that makes a difference here, I can get a reasonable tow for about 2.50 loaded + hook for just a car, but for a 10k forklift you have to have a big un.
 
I remember those darn bumtangles. :( Major pita. Like the stanchions...great idea for stability B4 shortening. Will do that on next frame. Where is the cup holder on the forklift. [S
 
5 ton? because that makes a difference here, I can get a reasonable tow for about 2.50 loaded + hook for just a car, but for a 10k forklift you have to have a big un.

I dunno what a roll back would cost for that, but my buddy usually charges me about $85 flat rate up to 100 miles from his shop.
I can haul 50,000 lbs on my flatbed, that’s what I was referring to. I average a little better than $1 a mile because I’m empty half the time. I go out loaded and deadhead back empty every day.
 
yeah thats what I was quoted, the last forklift was only 4 miles away and it was $100 for a 5 ton rollback.

funny thing, he was unloading and he was watching the deck intently, well the front of the truck came up chest high and WABAM hit the ground when the forklift came off.

he said "oh". :eek:
 
motor mounts! the 4.3 needs to move aft, last truck I did 9 inches and fought the distributor going back in. this truck I settled on 7.25".

used my cheater jig, holds the tubes 16.25" apart.

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usually I modify the original trans mount but this time just popped one out of some rectangle tube and some plate. the sides will bolt to the tube, allowing removal.

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control arms and steering are here, I need the weight of the motor to change them. cleaned the parts I wouldnt be able to reach with the motor back in and squirted some matte black.

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pulled the oil cooler. new oil doesnt need one, much better oil than 2003, and these always have leaks. you have to take the filter spin on adapter off first, remove the cooler, then put the filter spin on back on the block.

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still snowy and wet out there, I should have the motor dropped back in maybe tonight and start on CNC cutting the mounts maybe tomorrow.

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Like the cheater jig and your simple trans mount. Any challenge up front changing your engine set back from 9" to 7.25" [S

I have done as little as 5 (needed a efan) and as much as 9.25. 7.25 will be right there, best fit I had was closer to 7 but on the last one I was still greedy enough to try more haha.

should have the motor in and be working on suspension later today
 
got motor plopped on mounts, lined up awesome.

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was working on front suspension when travis called with another craigslist find, he is the guy who spotted that last stuff in the background. looked like a good mix of stuff, and a gmc hood in there that I knew he needed, did I want to go halfsies and pick up asap (hour and half drive one way)? ok I guess. :)

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I seriously underestimated what people have again. looked manageable from the pics, but when I got there it was 3 hoods, 5 front fenders and a rear, 5 doors (needed more doors right?) 3 sets of running boards, inner fenders, bumpers, on and on.

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had to leave the bed for a second trip, there was so much. good condition 39 international bed.

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today I started on suspension again my neighbor called and said he could start the driveway project with his backhoe at the new property, so looks like another delay haha.
 

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picked up the 39 bed, would have taken the chance just towing it but the distance said be smart.

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rebuilt the front end of the donor, the upper bushings were really wasted but the balljoints were great.

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it made me surprised the tie rods were bad, but I got them in the kit so I got them ready. the old ones wouldnt come loose from the center link, not enough swing for my bfh, but I got a new center link too so no big deal. it was then I realized the slop I thought was the tie rods was actually the idler arm. which didnt come in the kit. oh twell, a quick run and everything buttoned up.

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time to mess with the cnc table. everything went good on the dry runs but when I gave power to the plasma it just stayed on for the whole travel. I dinked around with it, it was the first cuts after all maybe something in my inexperience... nope. i noticed the plasma would fire every time I plugged in the special cnc connector.... sure enough, i peeled back the shrink wrap and it was shorted.

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after that, easy peasy.

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you can see some of the tribulations haha. but everything worked out perfect. time was I would spend the day cutting and grinding the individual parts and trying to make them match. this was cut AND bent in 45 seconds. no finish work required.

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tomorrow I will cut the rest. all that farting around trying to troubleshoot really showed me how fast I could prototype something with this. its really crazy how easy it is.
 

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