1936 Packard

this thing is sick.... I love it!

The slight contour in the bumper and the Packard script really suit the car. You did a great job narrowing it and filling/removing the holes.

You make the rest of us look like hacks. That might be because some of us are though

Dirtyrat said:

Ehh at the risk of making you angry, (Hopefully not) I don't think that bumper shape is up to your normal standards... I was sorta thinking you would follow the body shape a bit there, what do you think?

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No worries man...
By following the body, I guess you were thinking it could curve in close to the rear pan and curl around the fenders ?[S
To me that would be too much of a 50's shape for a 30's car, I'm going for more of a "is that stock or tweaked ?" look.

Before making the new running boards, I have to fix the crispy lower edge of the body that they bolt to. I sliced it off and made a new piece from 1x1" tube with 5/6" nuts welded in to bolt the board to - the right side one is tacked in place, the left side piece is on the floor. Since the body is shortened 5", the front of the cowl will need to be modified to match the 5" forward front end of the running board.

ZZ, I think you've just labelled another genre of building. "Is that stock or tweaked look" is a way of making sections of a hotrod. I have used this technique quite a few times, but never gave it enough thought.
Thank you for your imagineering both in steel fabricating and wordsmithing.
[Are you a wordsmith, if your Spellcheck underlines quite a few of your words?]

MercuryMac said:

[Are you a wordsmith, if your Spellcheck underlines quite a few of your words?]

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Definitely ! As Henry Ford said, whether you think you can or think you can't, you are right.

I cut and added a pie shaped section to the bottom of the cowl to match up to the new bottom edge piece. A plus of using the 1x1" square tube on the bottom edge is that when the body comes off for finishing, I can set it on the floor without it getting crunched. Once I can flip it over, I'll add some bracing to the backside to stiffen it even more.

Making the running boards from 16ga. steel is tough to bend on my less than fabulous brake, so I scored them on the bend line with a zip disc and got a nice crisp 90 degree edge. To make the rolled bend I tacked the edge to a piece of 2" pipe and made a handle from angle iron, then I set it on the floor, stood on it and pulled it over to make a nice rolled 90 with a sharp 90 for the bottom edge. Cut the tack welds and repeat for the other side.
Come to think of it, this would work to make the first 90 bend using square tube - who needs a press brake ??

Great idea! [cl[P

Awesome idea for those bends on the running boards.

Is the top surface of the boards going to be left smooth or you adding some "decoration" ?

-Chris

That's some fine metalworking zz!

That's awesome!

it is good to see people achieving really top notch work without tons of tools or amazing shops..

great job on the rolled edge

zzrodder said:

No worries man...
By following the body, I guess you were thinking it could curve in close to the rear pan and curl around the fenders ?[S
To me that would be too much of a 50's shape for a 30's car, I'm going for more of a "is that stock or tweaked ?" look..

Click to expand...

Fair enough, I understand the vision now

CORPO said:

it is good to see people achieving really top notch work without tons of tools or amazing shops..

great job on the rolled edge

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Actually, I had no idea if doing the bend like that would even work ! (Good thing it did, I didn't have any more 16ga. sheet to spare )

First running board is done, I made the end flanges from 1/8"x2" flatbar - to get a good fit to the fender, I made the flange, bolted it to the fender, then tacked the running board to it from underneath. Same method for the edge that bolts to the rocker panel except I used 1/8"x1" flatbar. Two support braces bolt to the frame and extend out to the edge of the running board.

Hey ZZ,
How long are your running boards? What a great idea. I'm thinking that would work to make the top edge of a Pickup bed instead of welding a piece of pipe and having to straighten the pipe after the heat draws it. Maybe use
a 3/4" to roll it.

Still watching and learning.

I-R-POPS said:

Hey ZZ,
How long are your running boards? What a great idea. I'm thinking that would work to make the top edge of a Pickup bed instead of welding a piece of pipe and having to straighten the pipe after the heat draws it. Maybe use
a 3/4" to roll it.

Still watching and learning.

Click to expand...

Betcha that would work for the top roll too, I've done the pipe welded to the top thing for box sides before also, yep, it always warps some. The running boards are 61"long.

I-R-POPS said:

Hey ZZ,
How long are your running boards? What a great idea. I'm thinking that would work to make the top edge of a Pickup bed instead of welding a piece of pipe and having to straighten the pipe after the heat draws it. Maybe use
a 3/4" to roll it.

Still watching and learning.

Click to expand...

zzrodder said:

Betcha that would work for the top roll too, I've done the pipe welded to the top thing for box sides before also, yep, it always warps some. The running boards are 61"long.

Click to expand...

Great minds think alike guys. I was thinking about ZZ's bending method when we were talking about your box sides as well Pops. The trick is going to be to get it to roll over enough to form the circle.
Torchie

First time out in the daylight since December /13. Running boards are done, time to get started on the front end assembly - first thing will be fixing damage and rot on the fenders

Very, very nice. ZZ[cl
Torchie.

That looks great!! You make it look so easy,but we know its not.