1936 Packard

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I'm in love. Those rims and tires really make it pop!
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Nice work don't know how this got missed. Need to read more on rear end narrowing did you use a jig?
 
Got the rear suspension all sorted out and mounted. The center of the 1x2 lower crossmember will get cut out once the rest of the center structure gets built, so the driveshaft will clear.
 

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Hooked up a rope to my comealong hanging in the rafters and hoisted the body off the dolly and onto the frame for the first time - looks like it's gonna work !! :)
 

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Here's the fun pics :). Bolted on the rear wheels and rolled it outside. Now it's really getting the 'look' going on....
 

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Caddy build

Just went thru your whole Caddy build too. Jeez dude!
Was looking at the shots of your house and the yard and said to myself this guy is dealing with some serious attention deficit !! Then I read that you were a pro landscaper. How do you deal with getting the primer all over your grass and shrubs in the backyard?. Ha
 
Got the body mounted to the frame and built the 1x1" tubing substructure for the floor in the rear half of the body. Also welded some new sheet metal to the crispy edges of the wheel tubs then welded them to the new subfloor framing to tie everything firmly together.
 

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Nice work don't know how this got missed. Need to read more on rear end narrowing did you use a jig?

No jig, just lots of careful measuring, made sure the cuts were square and indexed the tubes to ensure the ends were clocked the same as originally. Also a deep chamfer on the joints to make sure I would get good weld penetration [;) and more eyeballing to make sure the housing ends were square before welding .... and a quick prayer ....:rolleyes:.
 
I know you used 2x2, and 2x4 to get your 2x6 main rails but did you mention what gauge metal your using ?
 
I know you used 2x2, and 2x4 to get your 2x6 main rails but did you mention what gauge metal your using ?

1/8" wall (.125) - I've always used it for my frames. I know lots of guys use 3/16 wall but I find the weight penalty doesn't add as much strength as using larger dimensional material. In other words, instead of building a frame from 2x3x3/16", I would use 2x4x1/8" - over a long span I think the larger cross section would be stiffer. Just my opinion, I'm no engineer.
When it comes to stacking the 2x4 and 2x2 , I'm sure the internal rib that results from welding the two together gives it more torsional stiffness than a regular 2x6 would have.
Naturally, good placement and design of crossmembers are also crucial to a strong, stiff frame.
 
Went to visit my Packard collecting friend today and took a couple pics of his long running project, a 37 Packard 115 Convertible coupe, engine is a 425 nailhead he scooped from a wrecked Riviera in the late 60's with the factory 2 4bbls. and the gennie Buick finned aluminum valve covers. This car has been the origin of my own Packard obsession since first seeing it in 1972 in a barn covered in bird poop. He's hoping to get it on the road someday...... more patience than I have.
Also a couple pics of a 37 Packard 115 3 window coupe body he has hibernating that is destined to be my next project...:)
 

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