1936 Packard

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That convert is beautiful! I can't believe you haven't grabbed that coupe before now. Somehow I can see a great ride coming from it in your hands.
I have been looking for a 37 coupe for years but it never seems to happen, for some reason37 was a magic year for styling whatever brand.[dr
 
That convert is beautiful! I can't believe you haven't grabbed that coupe before now. Somehow I can see a great ride coming from it in your hands.
I have been looking for a 37 coupe for years but it never seems to happen, for some reason37 was a magic year for styling whatever brand.[dr

Good things come to those who wait... :)
Aww, BS, he just realized that after hoarding the coupe body for some 40 years that he was just not going to get it built. I helped him work on the convert in the 80's (last time the nailhead was running) and we always connected on cars and Packards so I'm sort of inheriting the coupe body (complete body with doors, fenders, hood, etc,) with the understanding that he will get first dibs on buying the finished car.
Couple pics 2 other 37 Packard bodies he has, a 4dr. that someone chopped up with the plan of making a woodie and yet another 3 window coupe body - looks like I could be building Packards for years....
 

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Oh boy! Glad you are getting the coupe or all of them, saves a lot of search time for future projects. Those coupes could make some overly classy rides just hope ya don't pizz off the purest!:rolleyes:
Like I said I have a dream of a 37 coupe, someday, someday.
 

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Took a couple weeks off doing family stuff with the outlaws and it's been on my mind that the rear end doesn't sit as low as I want it. Took the body off again yesterday and cut the bag mounts off the frame and mounted them higher, also raised the shock crossmember. Result is that it sits 1 1/2" lower and the fender lip comes down to the wheel rim - compare it to the before pic from outside. Happy, happy, happy :). Also today got the master/booster/pedal assy. mounted.
 

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Looks perfect, I assume that is for static only and couldn't be used for ride height ? Looks like the tire is just about on the inner fender.
Still don't understand how you can leave this one, what was it? Beer?:rolleyes:
 
That looks awesome ZZ! That's the bad part about running tall tires, it can limit how low you can get the fenders over the tire. My truck is as low as it can get in the back (so it doesn't rub), but it's also static suspension too.

The car looks way awesome lower!
 
Looks perfect, I assume that is for static only and couldn't be used for ride height ? Looks like the tire is just about on the inner fender.
Still don't understand how you can leave this one, what was it? Beer?:rolleyes:

Oh yeah, that's the max drop with the bags aired down, about 1" clearance above the tires to the fender, OK for parking and rolling around shows only, expected ride height will be 3" higher.
 
You are a lucky man to have access to the packard bodies! I can't wait to see what you do on those as well as your current build! I do have a question, what pedal assembly is that on the brake MC?

I'm still working on my pedal arm, and I have not seen one that extends that far out and can still stay on a proper arc when you are pushing the pedal.
 
You are a lucky man to have access to the packard bodies! I can't wait to see what you do on those as well as your current build! I do have a question, what pedal assembly is that on the brake MC?

I'm still working on my pedal arm, and I have not seen one that extends that far out and can still stay on a proper arc when you are pushing the pedal.

You know, I don't know the manufacturer of that assembly, bought it on ebay when in Az in the winter. No name on the box though judging from that and the low price, it's gotta be "offshore" made. I've used the exact same unit a couple times and they work fine, though the one I put on the Caddy was missing the intermediate rod between the booster and master - It gave me fits trying to bleed it 'till someone clued me in to the problem.
I think the usual pedal arm length ratio is 6 to 1 (6 on length of the long arm to 1 on the actuating arm). You're right about them not moving in the proper arc - I often end up having to give the arm a tweak so it doesn't move up and down in the hole in the floor. You'd think they could get that right, but I guess in China, close is good enuff....[S
 
Been working on the 1x1" tubing bracing around the quarter windows and rear of the body. Packard kept using wood longer than some others and since this was a 'soft top' body, there was a lot of wood in the roof and wood framing above the doors too so I had to fab that too.
Time now to tackle something I've been avoiding - the doors. With a 3" section, 2 1/2" chop and 5" lengthening, there's a lot of thinking, cutting, fitting and welding to do before they'll fit right.
 

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Are you thinking about fender skirts?

I'm assuming the cardboard is to protect the wheels. I don't think fender skirts would suit this car at all, but i'm not a fan of them most of the time anyways.

ZZ, I don't blame you for putting off working on the doors. I know you'll do a great job, but it sounds like an aggravating thing to do.
 
Are you thinking about fender skirts?
Oh Jeez no, just whitewall protectors :)

You may have mentioned it before but are you going to leave it a 'soft top' or fill it? It is looking great by the way. :cool:

I'm going to fill the roof with a skin from a 90's Lincoln Town car later. For now, it makes it easier to work inside with that super size skylight.

I'm assuming the cardboard is to protect the wheels. I don't think fender skirts would suit this car at all, but i'm not a fan of them most of the time anyways.

ZZ, I don't blame you for putting off working on the doors. I know you'll do a great job, but it sounds like an aggravating thing to do.

Arrgghhh, doors suck - well at least these ones do... very time consuming getting everything lined up and fitting the opening right - over an hour just to fab the 1" section to splice the top door frame together. Oh well, just keep pluggin' away, lessons learned on this side should make the other one go quicker. To help with assembling the door, I tacked 4 tabs to the doors and frame which keep it positioned right and maintain a 1/8" gap. By taking the bolts out, I can remove the doors, finish up the welds and put them back on, also this will keep them in place when I get to welding in the suicide hinges later.
 

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