Jeep Engine Build

Looking Good, bob. [cl
The first REAL Chef I ever worked for used to say heavy when something was hot.
He pulled that one on me in the middle of a dinning room full of customers once.
Still hurts just to think about it.
[P [P [P
Torchie

I'll look forward to seeing your header. Despite the effort required to save it, I'd imagine you're fortunate to have a flange to work with...

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I might be being over cautious here, but are you planning to bold the flange to a spare head to help prevent warping while welding on the new tubes?

I Hate Stainless Steel

Yes Skip, I'll bolt the flange to a cylinder head. The flange is a bit over 1/2" thick but even that can distort when heated.
Been grinding away with the die grinder and a drill motor. Getting harder all the time. Then a light bulb went off. The tubes are stainless steel and the bits are getting very dull. A magnet sticks to the flange plate so I shouldn't have any trouble welding the new steel primary tubes to it. In the second pic you can see the original tube remnant that has to be removed. Tried to nip most of it out with a cutting torch but SS doesn't respond well to the gas wrench.
The third pic shows a properly ground out hole with the tube remnant and weld removed.

I take a hole saw and cut a filler plug that fits in the original hole and tack weld it to the remaining piece of exhaust pipe then, take the correct size hole saw and cut the remaining pipe out.
You automatically have the center with the hole that is in the plug.

A Little Change Of Pace

Good suggestion, OI. I had thought about doing something like that but figured the stainless steel and the weld bead would be too tough for my hole saw blades.

Today I put the 406 sbc that was in the Crosley on the stand. It's going in the Bantam to replace the Big Block that was in it. I sold th Big Block. Figured I'd freshen it up a bit. Want to check cam wear, replace valve springs, etc. I just bought a leak down tester so I tried it out. Sadly, I heard hissing in the pan on some of the cylinders so it probably needs rings and a cylinder honing. Looks like it will be torn down to the bare block.

Not Much

Picked up a pretty nice set of Hooker Competition headers that fit a Chevelle. Found them on Facebook Marketplace. Looks like they'll work on the Bantam

Measured very carefully and clamped the wishbone mounts in place. Welding at 11:00

That's all.

How do you work on so many projects at once?
It hurts my head trying to get one together mentally and financially.

Looks great all around.

I-R-POPS said:

How do you work on so many projects at once?
It hurts my head trying to get one together mentally and financially.

Looks great all around.

Click to expand...

Isn't that the truth. [P[P

A Shocking Development

In answer to a couple comments: sometimes I get a little stale on a project and rather than doing nothing, I switch gears and put in some effort on another project.

I got some welding done today. Almost finished with the cleanup on the header flange too. Looked in my stack of stuff for some short shocks. Nothing there. Decided to use friction shocks so I wacked some plates out of 1/8" thick aluminum. The mounting plates are 1/8" steel plate. Will use some cork sheet I have for the friction material. Have to buy some heim joints for the links to the axle.

Nice looking shocks. Is cork really frictious? (I made that word up. It aught to be one.)

Skip said:

Nice looking shocks. Is cork really frictious? (I made that word up. It aught to be one.)

Click to expand...

I've not used it. Did a little research on line and found friction shocks on antique cars used rubber, cork and even wood. Some people have used Masonite. I've used conveyor belt in the past but don't have any. I do have sheet cork so I'll give it a try.

I've often wondered if a brake puck would work. (???)

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bob w said:

I've not used it. Did a little research on line and found friction shocks on antique cars used rubber, cork and even wood. Some people have used Masonite. I've used conveyor belt in the past but don't have any. I do have sheet cork so I'll give it a try.

Click to expand...

I learned something today. That is always a good thing. [cl
I just noticed that I used aught rather than ought. OOPSY...

Doc, I found a reference to someone using clutch facing so I would assume brake material would work. Or if a person wanted a million mile life, just stick a hockey puck in there.

How about cutoff discs? They come in several sizes. Nice and thin.

Exhausting

Skip, cut off discs might be too brittle. Never know unless you try. For now, I'll go with cork cuz I have a bunch of it.

Spent quite a few hours on the header and this is all that was accomplished. Here's all the pieces I have from my stack of stuff. Need some straight pipe as each primary is 36" long. And probably should be even longer. My favorite parts store can't get it. Will try NAPA Monday.

Love building headers [P[P[P

The header flange looks like it cleaned up nicely

No Head For Headers

The OEM header flange is some stainless alloy. Somewhat magnetic. No rust on it at all.

Put a couple hours in on it today and welded the collector on. Managed to put two short tube sections on it after many cuts and trims.