48 F1 LinkFord project

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So, I was looking into different steering options for my truck. Don't really want power steering. Looked at the Toyota steering box swap also. I have decided to use a rack and pinion from a Chevy Cobalt and fabricate brackets to clamp to the straight axle. I read where someone else did this , and has been running his truck for two years now with no issues. I bought a manual rack, and also bought the intermediate steering shaft to canabalize for parts. Gonna remove the front springs firs and give them a good inspection and paint. And, just to make sure they are good to go. I did this when I removed the front axle for lowering a few months ago, and they looked fine. My plan is to fabricate a bracket , using 3x3 x3/16" angle iron. The bracket will clamp to the axle , using Ubolts. The Cobalt rack is very simple and looks easy to build brackets for. I will try to take photos of progress. I also plan on using double "D" style male /female steering shaft with u joints and grease zerk for suspension travel.
 
I've used both Cobalt and a Dodge Omni rack
The turn radius is tighter with the Dodge Omni and there was way less modification to the Omni. Only had to cut 1/2" off the ends of the tie rods.
Very easy to mount with the four bolts on the bottom.
I've seen the rack mounted to the axle and seemed to work fine. I didn't want it moving with the axle so I made a bracket to mount to the frame. Here's the page link to the install on my 37 GMC.
http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36917&page=15
 
Old Iron's frame mount looks to be the best way to me. Less unsprung weight, less chance of bump steer, no telescoping shaft needed.
 
Thats how I was going to do it at first. So, I may be going back to that. I think as long as the rack is close to the same lines as the stock tue rod I should be good. It would be so much better in my mind to build a bracjet attached to the frame.
 
You'll not be disappointed in the way it drives.
With the rack mounted to the axle, the one thing I'd be concerned with is, the clearance/slop in the double D slip joint giving you additional rotation of the steering wheel like having a worn out u-joint.
 
I've mounted 3 or 4 to the axle. Works fine. I have 6" of Double D inside each other so plenty of engagement and no slop. The amount of in/out change, if mounted right is about 3/8" inch.

Years ago I saw and talked to a guy with the R & P mounted to the frame. Until then I was under the impression it would cause massive toe/toe out problems on bumps. He said it worked fine. I never tried it, but Old Iron's results and his building credibility has caused me to change my mind.
 
Decided to wait until next month to mount my rack and pinion. Meanwhile , I ordered some sport springs for the jag suspension. That will drop the rear about 1 1/2" . should bring the truck back down more level, and get my castor angle back to where it needs to be. Gonna have to do another alignment after mounting the springs. They should be here Tuesday. Meanwhile, I repainted my wheels and installed some wide whitewalls. I couldnt afford $1000 ,so I bought new Ironman tires with whitewalls, and ground them wider.
 

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Lowered the back end just a little. Ordered some different springs, and fabricated some new perches. Lower look and better steering
 

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So, I shot some black on the truck, sanded through in sone areas to make it look a little distressed. Then I shot a couple of coats of semi gloss clear over. Still not in kove with the wheel color. Suggestions?
 

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The truck looks good!!! I dont mind the wheels. Red always looks good, but its used alot. A gun metal color might be cool looking[S
 

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