1971 Buick 455 performance question(s)

71 Buick Riviera and 55 Chevy 2nd design P'up Build:[P


I have built many cars and trucks throughout the years but don't know much about buick performance beause of its scarcity. I have heard if built right, it will run circles around the hemi. I know that the engine I have now is the middle ground (1971) with the lower compression than the 1970 model with 10:1 for burning unleaded fuel rated at around 330HP; but, is it worth changing the pistons and such or can I just get by with a small cam and intake to boost up to at least a respectible 400hp. I may drag the truck occasionally but mainly wanting it to be a driver. I know the truck will be half the weight because it already has fiberglass one piece front end, rear fenders, and side steps. I just want to see what others have to say before spending money that could be better used in other places such as customizing my frame and body perches, etc... Your comments will be greatly appreciated.

Buick are low rpm torque engines. Here's a CC tech article.

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_0906_buick_455_engine_bolt_ons/viewall.html

I think the torque may surprise you in a much lighter vehicle. TA performance has performance parts for them. I am not sure if Buick used low compression pistons or larger combustion chamber volume to lower compression. I would try running as is unless a rebuild is needed.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7gNxMGdwHqg

how much money do you want to spend?
weak link on all of these big blocks are the rod bolts, not necessarily the rods. they get fatigued lugging those heavy pistons around.
on the buicks you want to make sure you do the oiling system mods if you want to wring em out or you'll be back to spinning bearings and throwing rods.

Same deal on the Pontiac where I have my experience.
the Pontiac has a good oiling system for rpm but like other large engines with long rods and big pistons you need to upgrade your rod bolts.
my Pontiac 400's run a 320 duration cam and run up to 6,000 rpm. not extreme but enough to dynamite a stocker
I run the cam at the bottom of this list on the street
http://www.texastransams.com/articles/pontiac_cam_specifications.htm

http://www.ehow.com/info_7794451_ram-air-iv-cam-specs.html


I always run ARP bolts.
After blowing up a new street engine driving normally because of a rod bolt failure I will never re-use stock rod bolts.
I don't know how to measure bolt stretch but I do use an old fashioned torque wrench when loosening them up. If you torqued everything down the same...a weak bolt will loosen easier than the others.

@ 42 Chevy: the car has been sitting for over 15 years. Not even sure if the engine is free yet. Normally, I know most would not cut up a Riviera due to its unique features but the roof is literaly swiss cheese. Even if I were to get lucky and it was free and ran, I wouldnt trust it until I rebuilt it. I have a 350 in the truck now sitting on the original frame but I want to update the frame and have something different from everyone else.

TY Torch and DMW56. One thing I have learned being a mechanic all these years is one dont know it all and has to be humble enough to ask questions in one's weak areas. I will definately check into your input....

The 330 horsepower isn't rated the same as the earlier versions so you can't really compare. In reality, the horsepower isn't much less than the 1970 version.
Edelbrock sells Aluminum heads and they are probably comparable to the best Stage whatever heads the hot 1970 models used.

You can probably get the aluminum heads for maybe 50% more than what your going to spend rebuilding and modding a set of iron heads.

here's a site for you buickv8.com

sawzall said:

here's a site for you buickv8.com

Click to expand...

Great info on this site. A mild buick 455 ( cam, headers and intake ) will run real well. Consider that the Buick 455 is about 70 pounds heavier than a SBC with 100 more cubic inches on average. Keep it cool and do the oil mods mentioned and it'll be a great motor for you.

that's certainly something having all that power right there without having to wait for it.

The 455 Buick is another great torque engine, that's what it was designed for, hauling a big car around. Like any large displacement V8, a few basic mods will give great returns in performance, especially in a light vehicle. If you plan on doing some drag racing, don't plan on winding it up like a SB Chevy - the big Buicks have 'windowed' main bearing webs and high revs will put strain on the bottom end that it was never designed to handle. Keep it under 5500 RPM, gear it and make your cam choice to take advantage of the torque it produces and you'll be flyin' down the road.

thanks all for the great info. It has not fell on death's ears. As far as the drag racing, if I was to do it at all, it would only be for just having fun (leaving in "D" and seeing what it will do on its own). As far as being lighter, the only metal left on the truck is the cab and box. All front end, rear fenders, steps, etc. are fiberglass. I'm like your average mechanic, build it right the first time because I wont feel like working on it when I get home from work (lol). I think the carn, manifold, and cam swap (besides oiling mods) will be all I need for this one. It's mainly going to be a weekend cruiser for having fun it... TY again.

I have a stock Olds 455 in my '42, I bought it running and just did a iming chain and gaskets. I am very happy with the power and I think the Buick may be a little better because of its larger bore. I think you will love the torque. Good luck!

sawzall said:

here's a site for you buickv8.com

Click to expand...

V8Buick.com is *the* place to go for all things Buick. That's where I went when I built my Nailhead!

http://V8Buick.com

BoB

a state of depression....

Well, I had a break between classwork and went out to further examine the Buick. Unfortuantely, I got the car from a friend of mine which said it ran great when parked but the body was just rusted out. After struggling trying to open the hood for over thirty minutes, the air cleaner was removed from the engine years ago (many more than expected and told) and you guessed it, hood rusted out above carb, water down the intake, hence, engine so locked up the thing wont even move one centimeter. You know that pit in your stomach. I've built so many engines so when the crank wont even move; well, needless to say anything else. Now, I have to decide if I am going to try to salvage anything or just walk away from it all together. Thanks for all you inputs. It was greatly appreciated...

Too bad you're not closer to me. On Craig's there's a rebuilt Buick 455 and a 400 turbo for $475 obo.
http://springfield.craigslist.org/pts/3622926516.html

Old Iron said:

Too bad you're not closer to me. On Craig's there's a rebuilt Buick 455 and a 400 turbo for $475 obo.
http://springfield.craigslist.org/pts/3622926516.html

Click to expand...

If it is what is stated in the ad, that's a killer deal. I wish it was posted here..

the price sounds good but as everyone knows, rods were built by using things laying around the house, horse trading, and such saving money. It just sucks having to make a decision of whether or not to rebuild from the starting gate or look for another donar. Of course, I know I'm not the only one thats gone through dispair. It was just my time to whine for a few seconds or so (lol).....

The rest of the big-inch GM are also torque monsters and really don't require much in the way of add-ons when installed in something mid-weight. Keep looking and you'll probably find another Buick, or Olds, or Poncho of the 455 variety...you should also be looking for a Cad 472-500. Your biggest issue will be getting it to hook up...