GM steering column problem

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Bamamav

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 29, 2012
Messages
6,171
Location
Berry, Alabama
The tilt column in the Firebird has started having a problem. The key will crank and turn it off, but it won't turn far enough back to remove the key. It feels like something is binding it internally. Sometimes it works normal, but most time here lately is hasn't. Not sure what I need to be looking for, linkage from shifter, lock pin in column? Anybody have an idea? Not liking having to leave the key in the switch all the time, even with the door locked it would be easy to steal.....
 
What year is it? I know on the older (70's, 80's) there is a rod that runs down the column to the ignition switch which bolts onto the column below the dash - maybe the switch itself is binding or worn out, perhaps a shot of silicone spray into the switch mech will get it working?
 
It's an 88 model ZZ.

Why the lock cyl Dr C? The key goes in and out smooth when it does go to the lock position. I can feel something binding, feels like the rod ZZ mentioned is bowing up instead of sliding, it will pop back when you take pressure off of it. I'm wondering if there is something the rod fits into that is binding. Thought about taking the lock plate off the column and seeing if it still binds.

Anybody got a diagram on GM keyed columns?

Edit: found one.
 

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Had the problem on two 70 gmc modles. 1 was acual sw was little lose the other the linage rod got bent making it shorter and wouldn't quit go far enough.[S
Hope this helps.
 
Looking at the diagram, I'm wondering if the switch rod is what I feel flexing. May be the ignition switch itself binding. Going to look at it when I get time.
 
Why the lock cyl Dr C?

I've changed a couple for the reason you describe. (I'm not saying this is your problem, just sharing my experiences.)

I've also found this spring broken, disconnected or deformed... either or both could be the issue...

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I'd pull the wheel and lock plate, finger it out from there...

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I'll probably wait until spring, just getting ideas right now. For sure will pull the wheel and lock plate to start. One thread on another board that google brought up said to check the actual ignition switch, not the key cylinder, saying they stick sometimes. Funny it doesn't do it every time, but seems like it's getting more regular.
 
Bam, I'm with ZZ on this one. If you loosen the switch down lower on the column, you can slide it up or down while you try it, then if that dosen't
do it I would try the good Dr.s suggestion....
 
Speedy turtle finally gets the job done![ddd

I have been putting this job off forever. Today was the day, finally. I tore into the column. Wheel off, lock plate off, don't see nothing, let's go deeper. Took turn signal switch out, ignition cylinder, still nothing. Pull the upper housing, still nothing. Kinda stumped, sat and studied it for a while. Finally it dawned on me, the rod is moving, but bowing. Decided to take switch off. Then I spotted the problem! Back drive linkage from the shifter! It has a cable that runs from the ignition switch to the shifter that only allows the switch to go so far if the shifter isn't in park. Apparently, there is trouble in the cable somewhere, corroded up I guess, not letting it slip all the way back. Took it loose from the switch, and now it works normally![cl[cl[cl

Putting it back together has been a challenge. One little plastic piece caused me two hours or more of grief! It is the little piece that goes between the dimmer switch rod and the wiper/dimmer switch. Pain in the a$$ to get back together! Got that back finally, now still have to put turn signal switch back in and remount the column.

Only took me two years.:eek::eek::eek:
 
Don't sweat it Bama.
I've seen experienced GM Techs curse like a sailor on shore leave while working on these columns.
Glad you are moving forward with it.
Torchie
 
Finished up on it today, it works![cl But, when I took it apart, I somehow broke the little tube that the horn wire locks into, so the horn isn't working right now. And the hazard lights knob split in half, I put it back on, but it sticks. But , thanks to Rockauto, both pieces were in stock and should be in my grubby fingers by Friday. But, to get that little knob, I had to buy a pack of 10, what am I going to do with 9 extras?[S Might be time for an eBay listing, since the only one I saw on there was $12, I paid half that for 10 of them!:eek::rolleyes:
 
I broke the same little tube on my daughter's car a couple years ago. It happened at the same moment I pried the horn pad off, which freed itself suddenly and hit me in the nose. :p

Shortly thereafter, the car was stolen and we got it back, complete with a butchered column. We were not happy about the theft or the condition of the car when we brought it home, but a necessary column swap fixed the damn horn!

.
 

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