dually rear end into a suburban

Hi guys!

I am sure one of you exalted and knowledgeable folks will know the definitive answer to this one: I bought a '91 dually rear end and leaning toward putting it in the back of my '88 Suburban. I know I'll probably need lift blocks for tire clearance, and change out the U-joint, but curious if anyone knows what else is going to be involved in this swap?

Thanks in advance, and to all on this amazing website!

did you get a dually that was made for a flat bead or a pick-me-up body ? I got a dually that was made for a flat bed its narrow-er the front tire splits the two rears ,, On one for a truck bed the front tires lines up with the inside rear ... the rear end is wider ,,, if you got the narrow ,, the inside of your fender wells will have to be removed, and moved in about 8 inches or so for the inside tire ,,

It's off a pick-em-up, although I wouldn't have a problem tubbing the rear inners since they are almost rusted away anyway. Going to go without the fender flares for that mean open look. I guess machine guns on the front fenders are a no-no.

well then the springs them selves may be wider ,, 2 inch ? 3 inch ? , and if they are the same, measure inside to inside of them if they are the same as yours just use your springs that way you will have a better ride . but still have the dual wheels.. Only half the tire sticks out on mine . I used a flower edging stuff for my fender flare ,, works good

The flower edging idea sounds interesting. Got a pic? I see a lot of fiberglass baja bug fenders for sale cheap. Almost thinking I could go that way if need be. Or just let 'em fly in the wind...

Since I didn't get springs with this rear end, I will be using mine unless they are just too "wrong." Will definitely measure before undertaking the work, since it would be really foolish to get it all apart and then find out ... oops! If it won't work, then I guess I will have a dually rat truck, which was the original idea, and that's okay too! At least that one will be down to bare chassis (soon) to make things easier. Maybe do them both if this other deal that a buddy of mine has going works out. Dually '84 commercial chassis ...

sure i'l take a pic tomorrow . its just a curved plastic with and edge on it ... was going to buy flares till i seen this in the neighbors yard

does your neighbor know they are missing? LOL

NOPE [cl

What they don't know can't hurt you! LOL

Found this pic (from my build thread also) and like the look:



I've removed those horrid step rails that I always disliked and have smaller 15" wheels up front, so it will have a rake to it. Did you have to use lift blocks to get the dually under your "burban?

This is my 1986 C20
Yup a 3/4 ton



C20 and C30 share the same balljoints so drop center wheels on the front is as easy as a spindle change
depends on what kind of brakes...
if your 1 ton has the HD brakes you have to swap spindles
if your 1 ton parts truck has the std duty brakes it will have the same calipers and rotor thickness as the 3/4 ton setup. most likely simply swapping hubs and rotors.
I had the HD brakes which are about 1/4" thicker on the rotor and use the 1 ton chevy-international large front calipers...the ones that look like 1 ton ford calipers which are held on with a wedge instead of 2 bolts

On the rear my rear axle is from an early 90's 1 ton dually
I had to relocate the spring pads since 1 tons hold the springs in closer to the frame where the 3/4 ton shares a similar spring track as the half ton= frame hangars stick out farther with more space between the spring and frame
So im running the wider srping pad setting to bolt into a 3/4 ton with zero tie interferance issues. they arn't even close

and the shock mounting is different
When I reloacted my shock hangars I also shortened them up a little so the shocks dont hang down so far
Word of advice...if you eyeball their clocking position on the axle tube make sure you have a little space between the shock and axle. i got mine turned foreward a little somehow and the shock hit the axle before I could get the bolt it
wa WAAAA wa

As far as the pinion angle on the rear axle they looked close when I compared axles so I took a chance and just strapped my axle to the sawhorses with the spring pads level and moved them outboard without changing the angle.
I've never checked it but I have no vibration and prolly 20k -30k miles on that U joint with no issues.

the factory chevy dually fenders with the little steel thingy to cap off wher eyou have to cut into the sheetmetal...
they will bolt right onto a suburban perfectly
there are a couple runnign around Omaha/Council bluffs I've seen and they look factory

And you dont have to cut the tubs

http://pics.imcdb.org/15136/img_0214.jpg

I didn't intend to turn mine into a dually. it had aready been started
A previous owner had already installed the fenders and painted the truck some time ago.
It still had the 3/4 ton parts under it with aluminum wheel adapters

it looked pretty good so I decided to make it a genuine dually the right way.

one thing I noticed...it handles VERY well and is quite stable around a corner with minimal lean or tire scrub
There were leaves added to the rear but it rides pretty smooth
I've thought about lowering and bagging it but I'm leaving it just like it is

The 4 dooor in the picture is an 88 6.2 turbo diesel
I was going to bag and put a shortbed on but instead I picked it clean like a chicken bone for the 86
the wiring harness heater box and verythign under the dash was virgin unmolested. no cracked ducts hacky splices or missing screws and bolts like in my 86
So... when I get it all swapped in and convert again back to 6.2 diesel but this time with a turbo... I'll have the banks setup, the proper harness for diesel, cruise control etc whereas my 86 had a butched up harness from 3 different trucks

How I got such a good deal on the truck
It came from the factory with the (rare for 1986) LS6 454 which was all the guy I bought it from wanted out of it
yeah the ol ls6 from the chevelle days. that's what it's SUPPOSED to have in it.
If it was original I guess it's be a kinda rare truck but they are only original once

AZRodDave said:

What they don't know can't hurt you! LOL

Found this pic (from my build thread also) and like the look:

I've removed those horrid step rails that I always disliked and have smaller 15" wheels up front, so it will have a rake to it. Did you have to use lift blocks to get the dually under your "burban?

Click to expand...

This here setup is dually front hubs with dually wheels on the stock 3/4 ton single rear axle
They probably had to run about a 1" wheel spacer to get the inside tires to clear the springs.
it probably also does not track or handle as well as the duallys that require the fiberglass outer fenders but still probably better than the std 3/4 ton setup

My freind Bobby from Craig Missouri took a 91-94 ford E150 conversion van and turned it into a dually with E350 ambulance suspension and aftermarket flares. very nice van and he pulls a car trailer with a tow dolly behind the trailer when he's picking up 2

You don't necessarily need to run dually wheels on the front too.
instead of all the hassel of carrying a spare I run a common hercules/cooper tire 235-85r16, I bought new tires for about a grand...
And since the 1 ton lug nuts are so tight and so much work to get off without an impact I figuure if I get a flat that I can't drive into a shop I'll call a friggin truckstop for a road repair. 24 hour service.

Okay, cool. Thanks for the detailed info!

I bought 6 dually wheels and tires from a guy, all with tires holding air and 2 pretty worn, but will carry one of those as a spare and use the best 4 (16") on the truck. Two of them are brand new! For the fronts, I have 15" rims and 4 good tires, so will carry one of those as a spare as well.

Swapping out the rear end will probably be enough for now. I'm sure it will stabilize the truck more, and it needs shocks anyway, so will be changing out front and rear. There are quite a few parts stores and a 4x4 place nearby which probably sell a lot of different lengths, so should be good when I get that far. That may be my only expense other than what I already have ($40 for the rear end, $200 for wheels and tires!).

AZ Here are my cheap flares and my cut out inner fender patch



<<<<< this rear end was made for a flat bed its narrower

<<<< I just cut the fender well out of a 75 ford truck i was junking ,, works pretty good .. I wasnt going for looks just work=ability

Not bad! Now make the inner additions look like Hannibal Lecter's mask!

Created Build thread for this truck: Suburban Assault Vehicle (SAV). Went shopping for lug nuts today, since I have none, and looks like around $30-40 for both sides. BIG suckers!

15" for the front?
I'm guessing you have a half ton?
you can swap the entire crossmember/cradle from a 3/4 or 1 ton in it's a bolt in.

My truck came from El Cajon. a guy who owns a tire shop in Phoenix bought it and took the 454 for his 36 ford project and I bought it from him.
$550 and $750 to ship it home
i think I have somewhere around $4500 in it at this point if you count the parts and parts trucks i looted

Killy_Killerton said:

15" for the front?
I'm guessing you have a half ton?
you can swap the entire crossmember/cradle from a 3/4 or 1 ton in it's a bolt in.

Click to expand...

Yes, it's a half ton. Have to do this on the cheap for now. We'll see about later if and when funds allow. 350/350 10 bolt until the 1T dually goes in.

Killy_Killerton said:

My truck came from El Cajon. a guy who owns a tire shop in Phoenix bought it and took the 454 for his 36 ford project and I bought it from him.
$550 and $750 to ship it home
i think I have somewhere around $4500 in it at this point if you count the parts and parts trucks i looted

Click to expand...

I grew up in Sandy Ego, lived in "the box" (El Cajon) for a short time. Stuck in Phoenix for a while now taking care of my folks. Odd coincidence, eh?

you might be able to hack your a arms to fit 3/4 ton balljoints
You'd have a quieter ride as the half tons use rubber busings and the 3/4 ton and up use metal bushings
I don't know if the a arms themselves are interchangeable maybe ou could jsut swap those without doing the crossmember