My 40 Dodge Truck Build - Maybe a 41 LOL

Right on looks great
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Thanks all!

More than enough.[cl

Thanks Bob

Another question....structual

I'm going to use a 1.5 x 1.5 x 1/8 x-member for my rear coil over attachments.

I have that 3 link sorta ear on the top of my 8.8 rear. I cut it down but it still sticks up a bit.

That member will be right above the ear but being it's 1.5" I still have the travel I'll need.

My question is I'd like to drill a 9/16th hole in the center on both sides for the top coil over attachments. My plan is to drill the hole, cut the head off the grade 8 bolt, insert the bolt, plug weld it on the back side and then weld the shock side. Being I'll be filling the hole with a solid bolt and welding I figure it'll be as strong as it was....or stronger? Or am I wrong?

I'd be ****ed if after powder coating....or painting it bent.

Thanks guys

I went with my plan above....should be fine. I have the 4 link tabs tacked in. I'll double check everything and I'll weld it all in on Saturday. The bars are slightly angled up and once loaded should be parallel.

Sunday I'm hoping to properly assemble the front end, double check the caster, get the hair pins set up and get the frame off the rack. I'm typing and feel like I might be getting ahead of myself.....LOL

I order this fuel cell today....more than I expected to spend. I'll fit nicely in between the bed rails and the rear coil over x member.

https://aeromotiveinc.com/product/340-15-gallon-tank/

This old man is going to bed early tonight!

Sleep well fella's

You're not wrong on the shock application.
The only difference that I do is not weld the bolt on the shock side due to the fact it can cause the bolt to have a tendency to crack from the heat. When you tighten the shock sleeve against the tubing then that's enough to work.

Old Iron said:

You're not wrong on the shock application.
The only difference that I do is not weld the bolt on the shock side due to the fact it can cause the bolt to have a tendency to crack from the heat. When you tighten the shock sleeve against the tubing then that's enough to work.

Click to expand...

Thanks Bob....so only plug weld the back side? Just making sure I understand.

Couper said:

Thanks Bob....so only plug weld the back side? Just making sure I understand.

Click to expand...

Yes, it makes a stronger setup

Old Iron said:

Yes, it makes a stronger setup

Click to expand...

Thanks pal....You are da man!

That was OI giving you that guidance. I was wondering the same thing on my project. Good advice. I'm considering a slightly different approach which, if I do it, I'll show in my build.

I agree with OI, and am embarrassed to say that I didn't speak up sooner. You don't want the bolt 'heat-stressed' right where it meets the shock sleeve, as there will be a lot of 'up/down' stress right there in the next few years.

LOL .... Well thank you all. You guys are the best!

Pan Hard Bar Bracketry

I did a cardboard mock up of how I think I will set up my pan hard bar. Based on what I've read...same as 4 link bars as in parallel at ride height and on the pan hard I've read longer the better.

I have to make the axle bracket higher or frame attachment lower to get in that parallel zone but other than that do you guys see any issues?

I'm thinking I'll weld it right to the 4 link bracket with the thru holes for bolting the bar ends in with a longer bolt. Maybe make the bracket out of 3/8?

I ordered a LH & RH Bar End with the matching bungs for 1" ID Tubing from Speedway.

In thinking the LH / RH Bar ends thru..... I realize that my 4 links only have a RH on one side and a welded fixed on the other. Adjusting means you have to drop the end versus being able to make a live adjustment. Is that common for the 4 link bars? Or did I buy wrong?

Thanks again guys )

I'm thinking that the diff mounted end is not going to be strong enough, All the side loads when turning (doing donuts) are on the panhard bar. The center of the bar is a long way up supported only by the flat plates of the 4 link and the bar extention. I would try to triangulate it.

Best to have the pan hard bar level with the ground at ride height so the bracket that is on the frame needs to be low enough to make the bar level with the ground. The pan hard has an arch that it travels through and at the same time slightly moves the rear end to the side that is anchored to the frame. The longer the bar the less the rear moves off center.
If you had a mind to you can use what is called a wishbone pan hard that keeps the rear end centered at all times. It mount to the rear end and a bracket on the cross member of the frame in front of the rear end. This style does not need to be level with the ground as the front heim is on a slide bar that moves in and out as needed. This bar can also be mounted with the yoke forward to the frame or back on the rear end housing and above or below the drive shaft.

DozerII said:

I'm thinking that the diff mounted end is not going to be strong enough, All the side loads when turning (doing donuts) are on the panhard bar. The center of the bar is a long way up supported only by the flat plates of the 4 link and the bar extention. I would try to triangulate it.

Click to expand...

Thank you Dozer....makes sense.

Old Iron said:

Best to have the pan hard bar level with the ground at ride height so the bracket that is on the frame needs to be low enough to make the bar level with the ground. The pan hard has an arch that it travels through and at the same time slightly moves the rear end to the side that is anchored to the frame. The longer the bar the less the rear moves off center.
If you had a mind to you can use what is called a wishbone pan hard that keeps the rear end centered at all times. It mount to the rear end and a bracket on the cross member of the frame in front of the rear end. This style does not need to be level with the ground as the front heim is on a slide bar that moves in and out as needed. This bar can also be mounted with the yoke forward to the frame or back on the rear end housing and above or below the drive shaft.

Click to expand...

Thanks OI. I'm liking the center wishbone picture the best. I have to see what kind of room I have.

I'd love to go with what I have and put some triangulated gussets to strengthen it up.....

Jumping Around...Hairpin question

Moving around a bit... At the front end right now.

Want to be at ride height, loaded, pinion, and trans tail shaft close and drive shaft installed before I weld the axle tube 4 link tabs in. My son loaded this Trimec App on my wife's smart phone that has an angle finder built in and tells you if the drive shaft u joints will be happy at the present angles. Pretty damm cool.

I bolted my front axle in and my caster is too much..... 11 degrees so I will cut two tacks and adjust.

Questions....1) The hair pins will adjust this but I'm figuring I should be close to the 7 degrees and only rely on the hair pin adjustments for fine tuning verus tugging at 4 degrees? Would that be best?

And 2) Is there a specific angle the hairpins should be at? Since my engine rails angle up at about 5 degrees the hair pins have to be pulled up high to meet the frame. Also I'd really like to run a longer hairpin so it can tie in at the "X" on my frame. Now they are about 32" long and I'd like 44"

Is there any rules on angle and length? Maybe my application would leng it self to 4 link versus hair pin? I kinda think 4 link in a heavier bar like 1.5" would look better.

What do you guys think?

And a pic or two of the rear with the motor on the frame with the rack taken off the stands and on the floor to give me head room.

Thanks again fella's
Couper

Front End is in less the radius rods. I sent the stock ones back and am getting a longer set so they will tie in at the "Z"

Built the frame side motor mounts today.....not welded in yet. Ordered the drive shaft and the fuel cell is sitting in place. My son is going to tig some aluminum angle to hang it from.