1937 Packard 115 coupe

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I have a few questions, zz...

Why are theses pieces removable?

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This seems like an odd location for a battery. What holds the cover in place and how close is the battery to the axle?

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I see hundreds of spot/tack welds... do you weld these joints 100% or blast and seal?

I'm not questioning your methods or your integrity for a minute... just curious how you work and why...

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I have a few questions, zz...

Why are theses pieces removable?



This seems like an odd location for a battery. What holds the cover in place and how close is the battery to the axle?



I see hundreds of spot/tack welds... do you weld these joints 100% or blast and seal?

I'm not questioning your methods or your integrity for a minute... just curious how you work and why...

.

Questions, questions..:)
Those side pieces are removable to give hammer and dolly access when I get to the finish bodywork. Originally there was a vertical extension of the inner rocker panel, that trapped moisture and led to the quarters rusting out.

Battery is a couple inches away from the axle, I didn't want to put it in the trunk and the under seat original location gets in the way of the exhaust, plus it's a pain to get at. Lid is held with a tab at the rear and 2 screws at the front.

Yep, lots of tacks. Considering original pieces were just put together with a few spot welds and wood screws, this will be better I think. It will get bead blasted and sealed top and bottom.

Keep the questions coming and I'll keep the BS coming too .. :D
 
Neat car. Looks like it is on par with your other builds. Every once in a while, I see picturesof your past builds pop up on Facebook.
 
Thanks for the explanations, zz.



OK. What's with the plywood? Are those pieces going to be exposed and lacquered? Looks to me like cabinet quality oak veneer...

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Them are floor boards... :D Yeah, oak veneer, just what I had laying around, they'll just get painted. It's what would have been there originally and they give a more solid feel to the floor.
 
Getting the steering sorted out - I was worried that I'd have to cut those purty header pipes, but managed to get it around them with no problems, also clearing the infamous Ford oil filter.
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Them are floor boards... :D Yeah, oak veneer, just what I had laying around, they'll just get painted. It's what would have been there originally and they give a more solid feel to the floor.

Thanks, again. :D

That's quite the twisty, turny header you got there!

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Looking good ZZ!

Ever since a friend had his battery short out (behind the seat in a pickup cab) and burn the interior out of his truck and some of the paint off the cab, I'm even more of a believer in making the battery accessible. That's not criticism though, yours is nice and clean and looks to be a smart spot.
 
Looking good ZZ!

Ever since a friend had his battery short out (behind the seat in a pickup cab) and burn the interior out of his truck and some of the paint off the cab, I'm even more of a believer in making the battery accessible. That's not criticism though, yours is nice and clean and looks to be a smart spot.

For sure! Since there is no back seat, it'll just have a flap in the carpet to lift - maybe a quick release for the lid would be a smart move tho.. also some kind of fireproof layer on the underside of the lid and floor around the battery area too. Thanks for the inspiration!
 
For sure! Since there is no back seat, it'll just have a flap in the carpet to lift - maybe a quick release for the lid would be a smart move tho.. also some kind of fireproof layer on the underside of the lid and floor around the battery area too. Thanks for the inspiration!

Those are good ideas! I have no idea where I am going to put the battery on my roadster so you've given me some ideas for protection as well :)
 
Time to tackle the rear bumper mounting and rear pan rehab. I want
to lower the bumper a couple inches and tuck it in from this stock location, it will require new mounting irons since the stockers spread apart too much to fit the holes in the body when pushed ahead.

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Stock rear pan was really beat up, rusty and otherwise paper thin so off it comes. First I made the side tabs that mount to the lower fender bolts.I jacked the body up off the frame to gain access to the backside for the inevitable hammering to follow. Also had to melt off a bunch of old lead all across the lower trunk opening edge.

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Tin bashing time! Roughing out the corner pieces with the mallet and sandbag then run them thru the planishing hammer to iron out the lumps. Using the passenger side piece as a reverse template, the drivers side is quicker to make, matching the size and curvature.

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OOops, sideways pic [S - eyeballing the fit, passenger side

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Corner tacked on

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Both tacked on, need to make bottom flange pieces for both sides still..

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Welded on the bottom flanges to the corner oieces - welded on the backside so I could round off the edges to make it look like it was rolled

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Corners tacked back on

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I put in a temp 1" tube brace between the fenders and a scrap of
steel welded to it to keep the corners positioned right

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Cut the center piece an rolled it a bit over a tire and bent a flange on the bottom edge

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Used my shrinker to give the flanged edge some curve to match the curve across the back of the body

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Almost trimmed to shape, just about ready to tack in place

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