Wood is good.

Well said, Torchie. Only problem is wood warps on me if I look at it wrong. That's why I'm in awe of your boat reconstruction.

Moving forward.
Cleaned up the edge of the new inner ply.
Laid out the new intermediate frames along with the old, rotted and cracked ones..
Some of these will need to be steam bent as the closer you get to the bow, the more curve the hull has.
These frames "Float" between the keel (The board that runs down the center) and the chines (The outer edge of the hull.) Their purpose is to provide a place to screw into between the main and aux. frames when installing the planks.
That's it for today.
Thanks for stopping by......
Torchie

Looks great. You'll have to show us your steam process...

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Dr Crankenstein said:

Looks great. You'll have to show us your steam process...

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Click to expand...

Funny you should ask......[ddd
So much for it being a day off from the boat.
I just finished working on the new stem chamber.
Blue board held together with HI temp silicone Caulk.
The door on the end will be a flap and there are rods that will go through it to keep the wood off of the bottom of the box to allow for maximum circulation.
And yes, that bar is crooked. Apparently Torchie can't even remember his measurements when just walking over to the other side of the table. [ddd
After it sets up over night I will finish it up tomorrow.
NOW. That really is all for today.
Tired Torchie.

BillM said:

There you go again, but inspiring us with words this time! Thanks Torchie, you are an amazing soul.

Click to expand...

Agreed

todays progress.
Marked all frame locations.
More inside the hull clean up.
2 Good wet coats of CPES.
Thanks for visiting......
Torchie

Start of the steaming process.
Got my soaking tube out of the rafters.
I'll soak these frames for at least 24 hours before I steam them
Yes they want to pop up to the surface as the tube gets filled.
Did some more work on the steam box.
Used metal tape on all the seams.
Attached a wooden plate with a hole that will sit on top on my steam source.
Remember this is upside down.
I have some insulation that I may wrap this box in as well since it's only 1 inch thick blue board.
Temp in the box is important as well as the steam.
That's it for today.
Torchie

Thanks for the explanations and updates, Torchie.
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[cl[cl[cl
[P[P[P[P

Steam Heat....

Steamed the SB side intermediate frames this morning.
Set up my repurposed Turkey fryer/steamer. [ddd
If I did this for a living I would build a legit steam generator.
This is what I know about steaming wood.
Rule of thumb is 1 hour of steam time for each inch of wood thickness.
Box needs to have a free flow of steam and inside temp as close to 212% F. as that's the boiling point of water. At least at my altitude.
If wood has been kiln dried(as most is now a days) it needs to be soaked first.
Amount of soaking time vary's but longer is better. Steaming the wood does NOT put moisture into it. It actually dries it out. But the water from soaking acts as a conduit to allow the heat to go through the wood.
These frames are approx. a 1/2 inch thick so 30 min. in the box.
You have less then a minute once you pull the wood out of the box before the wood starts to loose it's elasticity. So be prepped to work fast.
You may notice that I put blocks under the frame ends. I did that to "Over" bend them to allow for spring back once unclamped.
I will leave these clamped for at least 2 days to make sure they are totally dry and to make the most of the bend process.
That's it for today.
Thanks for checking up on me......
Torchie

Wow, that's quite the operation Torchie. Thanks for all the pictures.

[P[P[P

Picture heavy double post.

Prep for the final install of the intermediate frames followed by the final instal of the inner ply.
Pulled the clamps. Steam bending worked good.
Most shops looks at this as a 2 person job but it can be done by 1 with lots of marks and measuring.
Gave everything a good wash since it's still easy to get to.
Mark the chine and keel for frame spacing. There has to be a 1/2-3/4 inch gap between the keel and the ends of the intermediate frame to allow for water passage. This is the lowest point in the hull.
No wonder my back is sore at the end of the day.
Torchie

Part 2...

Like I said. In some shops this is a 2 person job. The small person crawls through that opening in the transom frames ( First Pic)and hold the new intermediate frames up against the bottom while the other person screws through the inner ply into the frames to hold them. Plus while they are under there they clean up the excess 5200.
I'm doing this with the inner ply off the boat, so all marks on the light side of the wood get mirrored on the dark side that the frames go up against. I'll use the cheater stick for that.
Last pic shows the new source of propulsion for the boat.[ddd [cl
Keep on keeping on.
Torchie

Torchie, I was just vibrating with anticipation when you said the last picture has the source of propulsion; thinking yea, yea, Y-block whoo-hoo.
Well sir, I finally got to the end of the pictures and ------ my vibration went away.

MercuryMac said:

Torchie, I was just vibrating with anticipation when you said the last picture has the source of propulsion; thinking yea, yea, Y-block whoo-hoo.
Well sir, I finally got to the end of the pictures and ------ my vibration went away.

Click to expand...

Have no fear. The Y block is sitting in the corner under cover , MAC
Torchie

The oar is more reliable. (Sorry, Mac. I couldn't resist.)

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Doc, this is Torchie's thread, so you have to poke at Torchie, not at some completely Innocent but opinionated bystander.

[ddd[ddd[ddd

I'm impressed. Again. [cl[cl[cl