BlueJeep
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I agree!
1946 Chevy Bobber Truck Chop Build
- Thread starter 401ton
- Start date
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I agree!
DOUGIEB59
Well-known member
401ton
Well-known member
Seems like it's been a long Winter and not much progress, but finally getting a few things done.
Body mounts and "Z". Probably gonna "Z" it some more.
Holes in firewall welded mostly up.
Front frame mock up.
Rear frame mock up with a 16" rise.
Body mounts and "Z". Probably gonna "Z" it some more.
Holes in firewall welded mostly up.
Front frame mock up.
Rear frame mock up with a 16" rise.
401ton
Well-known member
Started working on some rear links. First I was just going to buy a triangulated kit off ebay, but then got to thinkin' bout where to mount a battery and air tank and compressor etc., so I decided to go with straight ahead 4 link design with lower angled locating brace to free up some room at the top inside of the frame (under the floor) for mounting accessories.
Then instead of buying a different kit, I found tube adaptors, 7/8" all thread, poly bushings, tube and more tube enough to almost make everything. Not trying to be cheap, just want to spend some dough on wheels, tires and tunnel ram etc.
The links are being made out of 1 1/2" DOM 1/8" wall. The tube adaptors are smaller so I had some 1/4" wall 1 1/2" arround. With no lathe etc. I found a larger tube that I sleeved both pieces with or made tube to tube adaptor with what I had.
Some may wonder about welding 7/8" all thread to the bushing, but I did it about 7 years ago on my offroad Jeep with 42" tires and haven't broken one yet.
Also, the welded tubes are only going to be the bottom links so it will be a pushing (compression) application.
Then instead of buying a different kit, I found tube adaptors, 7/8" all thread, poly bushings, tube and more tube enough to almost make everything. Not trying to be cheap, just want to spend some dough on wheels, tires and tunnel ram etc.
The links are being made out of 1 1/2" DOM 1/8" wall. The tube adaptors are smaller so I had some 1/4" wall 1 1/2" arround. With no lathe etc. I found a larger tube that I sleeved both pieces with or made tube to tube adaptor with what I had.
Some may wonder about welding 7/8" all thread to the bushing, but I did it about 7 years ago on my offroad Jeep with 42" tires and haven't broken one yet.
Also, the welded tubes are only going to be the bottom links so it will be a pushing (compression) application.
401ton
Well-known member
I got the idea from another build thread to cut off the firewall and move it ahead a few inches. The one on here I saw was moved 6". I'm about 6'2" and I was thinking about moving it ahead 4" for a little more leg room. It's hard to tell before a seat is installed, but sure would be a good time to do it while frame is still in mock up.
On my body there is a flat spot about 1 1/2" wide at the front. I figured I could cut it there, move it forward and retain the original firewall without to much work and stretch the frame now to fit it. Any thoughts?
On my body there is a flat spot about 1 1/2" wide at the front. I figured I could cut it there, move it forward and retain the original firewall without to much work and stretch the frame now to fit it. Any thoughts?
IAM-LDS-2
Well-known member
I wouldnt be caught dead in that pile of crap. Bring it to me (signed title) and Ill get rid of it for you....I promise.
LOL. Seriously though. I think this is one of the neatest builds so far. I love the wide tires and Id really think hard on using the 401. Those are some brute motors that built right can really haul butt. Little more expensive yes....But way kool!
Keep the pics a comin. Im lovin it! RR
LOL. Seriously though. I think this is one of the neatest builds so far. I love the wide tires and Id really think hard on using the 401. Those are some brute motors that built right can really haul butt. Little more expensive yes....But way kool!
Keep the pics a comin. Im lovin it! RR
LUCKY DEVIL 13
Greasy Gearhead
He is right!! Go with old skool straight axle and jeep it hot rod!! independant is nice but just looks like crap on a rod they make plenty of good upgrades for straight axle stuff hell they even make air ride setups now for them!!!
LUCKY DEVIL 13
Greasy Gearhead
I am building a '42 chevy and had the same issue with the drivers door not fitting right but the pass door shuts fine...Can you tellme exactly what you did on the drivers door [
401ton
Well-known member
I am building a '42 chevy and had the same issue with the drivers door not fitting right but the pass door shuts fine...Can you tellme exactly what you did on the drivers door [
To get them to shut ok just line up the door halves and tack weld in place when the door is hung on the truck. Twist or tweak to get them to line up.
To get the radius better, I just ground off where needed and added to another spot and welded back up.
Take a picture of your problem area and post or send me to your build thread so I can take a look.
LUCKY DEVIL 13
Greasy Gearhead
401ton
Well-known member
A little more progress.
All-Thread welded to bushing end.
Links tacked.
4 link brakets drilled and rough cut.
4 link brackets mocked up.
I used some .033" brake line washers to space the mounts apart. I would have liked to find even thinner washers, but that's all I had. If you have ever mounted links or brakets, it's alot easier to leave them wide ahead of time for paint etc. for mounting later than trying to make room afterwards with a BFH.
I ended up lowering this bracket to the bottom of the frame.
Started the frame 'X" at the rear lower section. Used 1" x 2" rectangle to start. Hopefully this misses the driveshaft after I get that far.
All-Thread welded to bushing end.
Links tacked.
4 link brakets drilled and rough cut.
4 link brackets mocked up.
I used some .033" brake line washers to space the mounts apart. I would have liked to find even thinner washers, but that's all I had. If you have ever mounted links or brakets, it's alot easier to leave them wide ahead of time for paint etc. for mounting later than trying to make room afterwards with a BFH.
I ended up lowering this bracket to the bottom of the frame.
Started the frame 'X" at the rear lower section. Used 1" x 2" rectangle to start. Hopefully this misses the driveshaft after I get that far.
401ton
Well-known member
This weekends progress:
4 link mock up is almost done in the rear. It a little close to the driveshaft yoke, so either gonna drop it or clearance the tube.
Here you can see the space I plan to use to mount the air comp. and maybe the battery because I went with a 4 link and locator bar.
Looks like all will be ok when air is dropped completely out of it.
The 4 link kits sold on ebay and through catalogs now seem like they are definately worth the money. I only spent $20 on bushings I was short, so I saved a couple hundred dollars to spend on something else because I already had the tube, adaptors and other bushings, but it really was a lot of time spent making everything. No regrets tho as a Rat Rod should be made with as much stuff as you have laying arround your garage.
Now time to order up the air bags and comp. I don't have any of those laying arround...
4 link mock up is almost done in the rear. It a little close to the driveshaft yoke, so either gonna drop it or clearance the tube.
Here you can see the space I plan to use to mount the air comp. and maybe the battery because I went with a 4 link and locator bar.
Looks like all will be ok when air is dropped completely out of it.
The 4 link kits sold on ebay and through catalogs now seem like they are definately worth the money. I only spent $20 on bushings I was short, so I saved a couple hundred dollars to spend on something else because I already had the tube, adaptors and other bushings, but it really was a lot of time spent making everything. No regrets tho as a Rat Rod should be made with as much stuff as you have laying arround your garage.
Now time to order up the air bags and comp. I don't have any of those laying arround...
401ton
Well-known member
Well I'm committed to extending the firewall.
Started by using the plasma to cut a couple 4 3/4" strips then flanging both sides to overlap for easier welding later.
Cut strips to start on the side first.
Welded in the corners after I shaped then some.
This is as far I got.
I tapered both sides and the top piece to give it some shape. The idea is to make it look like it belongs there when I'm done. We shall see...
Started by using the plasma to cut a couple 4 3/4" strips then flanging both sides to overlap for easier welding later.
Cut strips to start on the side first.
Welded in the corners after I shaped then some.
This is as far I got.
I tapered both sides and the top piece to give it some shape. The idea is to make it look like it belongs there when I'm done. We shall see...
rvreddog
Well-known member
You might want to think about turning one end of this the other way.It seems that this way at both ends will cause a bind.
401ton
Well-known member
You might want to think about turning one end of this the other way.It seems that this way at both ends will cause a bind.[/QUOTE]
I think you are right about this creating a bind because I want decent travel out of it. Good catch!
After thinking more about it, I need to either replace the vertical bushing with a sperical rod end or go to a track bar to locate the rear end.
I'm leaning toward the track bar because I already have the bushing etc. and would just have to shorten the tube and make a couple rear end frame brackets. Guess I'll take a look tonight when I'm back in the garage.
Anybody have opinion on track bar vs. locator bar and rod end?
I think you are right about this creating a bind because I want decent travel out of it. Good catch!
After thinking more about it, I need to either replace the vertical bushing with a sperical rod end or go to a track bar to locate the rear end.
I'm leaning toward the track bar because I already have the bushing etc. and would just have to shorten the tube and make a couple rear end frame brackets. Guess I'll take a look tonight when I'm back in the garage.
Anybody have opinion on track bar vs. locator bar and rod end?
