1936 chevy low cab build 1.5T

It's lookin gooooooooooooooooooooooooooood [cl

Thanks Gus...I'm getting the itch to finish it... Hoping to fire the engine this weekend. Check for leaks and put the cab back on...

Firing the engine is a great milestone and motivator - if/when it actually fires. Take a video - we want to hear it.

well, didnt want to keep you guys hanging.. engine firing didnt happen.. progressing in that direction, Got a bunch more parts on, replaced the leaky oil pan gasket. ran into a few minor issues that I am sorting out, managed to smack my new aluminum radiator, so I left the garage feeling angry and frustrated... hence no pictures, since I usually take the pics at the end of the night....

Anyway, besides having to straighten out fins on my new raidiator .. got nothing exciting to report....

later guys

slowly chipping away...

Got my radiator installed after 4 trips to the parts store, I finally ended up with a crappy flexable hose, I dont really like the look of these. I think I will get some header wrap to wrap the hose..



Made the lines for the trans, im getting better at bending these lines, Tight fit but got them in there..



The only piece of the origonal brass radiator I kept was the origonal overflow, which cleaned up nice and reshaped for a nice look..

This is going to be a great ride.... Good job...! -EZ

Nice work, looks awesome! I always like tall tires on open wheel rods and the duals are sweet.

Looking good[dr Lines are always a lot of work to make look good. I'm always split between spending my entire day bending lines or giving up once they are mounted well to move onto the next thing...

Thanks guys,

Fired the engine yesterday... At first we weren't getting any spark, by passed the ignition resistor .. Cranked it over twice .. And it roared to life...

Engine sounded great, better than I expected.. Nice low tones... The baffles I made did the trick it wasn't obnoxiously loud... The videos I took don't sound good at all... So they have gone to the digital trash bin in the sky...

I have a couple of small leaks, I think the aluminum valve covers I have are warped.... Which would make since why they had never been used, and were given to me free... So I'm going to get a flat piece of steel and glue down some sand paper and flatten out the flange... I am getting weeping from the two back corners of them... I also have a very small drip from the rear main... I think the seal is just dry since the engine sat for 4+ years... I went and got some of that additive that is supposed to help the seals swell added that in and ran the engine for 15 min... We're going to let it sit for a week or so fire it back up and check again... I really have no desire to separate the trans...

Slowly moving towards completion

It'll be worth it.

Hey Corpo. Lookin' good. Great work![cl[cl

Lynn

Nice progress man!
[P[P[P

Always a pleasure to look thru your build. RR

Love your build man

Moving along nicely.....

Corpo it's looking really great.... got an ETA on the first drive??

Can't wait to see some video of this on the move.

Good to see you moving along. This is one of my favourite builds.

Did I miss pictures of your header baffles? I plan to do lakers on my flathead and would like to hear how much noise suppression you got from your baffles.

Thanks guys!! I'm out in the burbs tonight so I can hit it first thing in the morning!!!

Gold I will see if I can snap a picture of my baffles I made them removable... But I did score some pretty nice parts to make them

Hopefully I will have some noteworthy photos for you guys tomorrow ...

Hi CORPO. Keep up the good work.
Don't forget to rewire your resistor back in after you run your motor a couple of times. A full 12 volts will be too hot for the points. After maybe a hour you could be in trouble. It sure works good, though, to start out with 12 volts. It's like the electricity has to break trail through the ignition wiring at first. and 12 volts breaks trail, Boy oh boy.
Keep on tinkering.

MercuryMac said:

Hi CORPO. Keep up the good work.
Don't forget to rewire your resistor back in after you run your motor a couple of times. A full 12 volts will be too hot for the points. After maybe a hour you could be in trouble. It sure works good, though, to start out with 12 volts. It's like the electricity has to break trail through the ignition wiring at first. and 12 volts breaks trail, Boy oh boy.
Keep on tinkering.

Click to expand...

I actually installed the pertronix point eliminator kit.. should be less troublesom... not sure if i need the resistor or not??

Updates...

Allthough I spent most of the day chasing air leaks with soapy water (finally got them all I think) The truck stayed at full inflate all day yesterday so... if there is a leak it is very slow at this point.

Anyway.. reunited the cab and body.. nice to see it looking like a truck again...





Gold.. heres a shot of the baffles installed.


its a perforated tube from motorcycle exhaust, and some plates that were donated to the cause. What I did was weld nuts to the back of one plate.. welded that plate into the exhaust and then welded the perforated tube to a second plate ( you can see I split the end of the perforated tube and opened it up to get it to fit those plates... I have turndows for the ehaust that I am still undecided on if I am going to run them or not but if I do, the way i built the baffles will allow for me to turn the tips depending on looks and level of noise I want..

CORPO said:

I actually installed the pertronix point eliminator kit.. should be less troublesom... not sure if i need the resistor or not??

Click to expand...

No on the resistor. Just put one in a Dodge Dart slant 6. Looking good...[P