My 40 Dodge Truck Build - Maybe a 41 LOL

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I'm just an observer here but, with that Hemi mounted that high, the truck will have a lot of corner roll.
Setting the bottom of the pan level with the bottom of the frame rail would eliminate some of that.
If you're going to run a mechanical fan that would be more in the center of the radiator too.
Looks very cool!!!!!!!!!
 
There's nothing like a Hemi to make a build awesome![cl[cl But like OI said, that's kinda high to mount it, plus the higher it is, the bigger the trans tunnel will be, and you need all the space you can get in an already chopped cab. Just my 2 cents worth.......
 
That's a whole lot of engine for a pretty small truck :eek:
Might as well put a blower on it too!!!!

I have enough trouble getting my '47 Dodge to stay hooked up and I've only got a Dodge 408 Stroker in mine..

Looks like a ton of fun.
 
I'm just an observer here but, with that Hemi mounted that high, the truck will have a lot of corner roll.
Setting the bottom of the pan level with the bottom of the frame rail would eliminate some of that.
If you're going to run a mechanical fan that would be more in the center of the radiator too.
Looks very cool!!!!!!!!!

Thank you old iron..... I'm all ears brother. Thank you!
 
There's nothing like a Hemi to make a build awesome![cl[cl But like OI said, that's kinda high to mount it, plus the higher it is, the bigger the trans tunnel will be, and you need all the space you can get in an already chopped cab. Just my 2 cents worth.......

Thank you ZZ!
I'm taking my cues from you vets and always glad to get the input. I will be making that adjustment.
 
Decided to go with internal gussets on the engine rails. Probally more important there than anywhere else. And got a little fancy with a 10 degree kick up and decided not to bury the ends of the engine rails in the grill shell but rather taper them and have them run out past the grill. I also needed that 10 degrees to meet my cross member. I saw a picture of this and liked it so I stole the idea. They'll get capped and not be left open.

On another note, I talked to the guy a Posie's about my spring and the 3" of clearence or travel I'll have between the spring and my frame rail and he said with the 1 up heavy spring I have I will only need an inch. That make sense to you guys? If so I'll forego the c notch although it wouldn't be a big deal to do.

That 3" is with the motor sitting on the spring.... the motor squats here down 2". That doesn't include the cab, alternator, starter, carbs and fluids. Whatda you guys think?

Thanks!
 

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I think you have good clearance there now. If you look at pictures of other finished rods with that suspension, you'll see notice the gap isn't very big.
I'm half way through another hotrod with a Mustang ll front end all welded in, but I can't get the caster adjusted enough, so, I want you to check what caster you want and set your cross-member at the right degree of slant --- Before you weld it in. Don't get into the jam that I'm in.
 
Making progress! Have a pair of perfectly matched engine / cab rails elded together. Next stop....uprights and bed rails.
 

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I'm taking a road trip to pick up a 40's Dodge Bed Saturday.

I want to go with really wide rear tires....not may choices.
15" Dia wheels, 29" overall height and 15.8" thread width tires. https://www.mickeythompsontires.com/street-tires/sportsman-s-r

I'll need a 14" wide wheel.....even less choices...

I hope hoping that I could save this part for very last but I have to get my rear narrowed so the inside of the tires are an inch or so off the side of the bed..
I'll need the backspacing of the wheel to accomplish this....

Am I thinking this thru right or am I in left field on this?

The attached picture is the look I'm after.

I'm open any idea's you guys might have.

Thanks
 

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You're doing it the correct way. Ya need the wheels and tires you're going to use to get the right dimensions on narrowing the rear end.
Set one on each side of the bed the distance you want for clearance then measure from inside of the wheel to inside of the other wheel.
 
Thanks Old Iron... I rally wasn't ready to spend the loot on wheels and tires yet but I'll need em to do this. I'm really liking this wheel:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/272933395896

I talked to the shop and delivery is 6 weeks or more....

If anyone knows of a 15x14 and 15x7 similar wheel or something nice with black in it please let me know....I wana keep going.

Also I have a question on track width....What the biggest variance I can have?

Thanks
 
Few Good Deals this Weekend!

Road trip this weekend up to CT & Mass to pick up a sweet set of wheels and a bed. Wheels are 15 x 8 and 15 x 10. I'm gona have the centers powder coated to match the ones I like and i have a friend who has a polishing business who will polish these a bit. Gona do them like the pictured wheel. The bed is a 40 that was used on a home made trailer. Needs some work....but what doesn't.
I'm gona shorten it from 79 to 56 while keeping the radius body line centered with my tire. 17" out of the front and 3" off the front and back with new stake pockets from DCM. 5 hour ride back with that bugger on the trailer....gee wiz.
 

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Took the frame rails off the rack tonight and placed them under the cab for a test run. Trans & Adapter end of week, open up the firewall a bit and locate the trans mount. Don't sweat the front / rear track width.....the rear end is going to be shortened to bring the tires against the outside bed wall.

I'm gona order this with the 700R4 trans mount kit
https://welderseries.com/store/Center-Section-Kit-p50909860
 

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If ya haven't already planned on it , the frame kick-ups need some sort of gussets to keep it from being springy in the orange circle area.
2x2x14ga would be plenty heavy.

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Hey Old Iron

Cool beans..... I can do that. Gusset towards the front and a piece of tubing where you have the 2 - lines. Could I use one of those spider web gussets for the 2x2 or better a solid piece?

Thank you!
 

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