71 bronco problems

Hi guys been a while since I been on last. I have a serious problem...the electrical system went up in flames. But only two wires burned and I replaced them and used my melted gauge for a bit. Then I got a brand new gauge and hooked it up and registered voltage without turning the key on but the but the lights wil not turn on and it won't try to start. So I put the two wires from the voltage gauge together and the lights work but when I try to start it clicks then nothing.... I am at a loss... I'm saving up for a harness but it will be a long time before I can get one. I want to drive it so bad. Any help will be very much appreciated.

Thanks,

Thomas[

Sounds like you still may have a wire burned through or exposed that is grounding out. I would retrace the harness and make sure there isn't a place that rubbed through. There should be some reason the wires melted. Hope this helps somewhat. Good luck.

sounds like you still have some wires thats burn together maybe .. as far as lights ,, did it burn a body ground ? oh I guess the first question is what caused it to go up in flames to start with ,,, that sounds like a hot wire dead short to ground I guess we will need more imfo , on which wires you replaced .

The wires I replaced went from the starter solinoid I think and a ground... They both go directly to the back of the voltage gauge. What caused them to burn way two things... I forgot to put a resistor back to ground and one of the wires melted on the exhaust manifold

[S Im no expert on this stuff , but maybe the ground still isnt grounded or not grounded to the body then to the frame .. There are some Ford guys on here may can help ya out

Ford used a fusible link at the solenoid terminals. Sounds like yours burned up when you had the short. Check the wires coming off of the big posts on the solenoid, some of them will have a molded in tag that says FUSIBLE LINK, some of the older ones didn't. If the wire feels crunchy or extra limber, the link is toast. Replace it if bad with another fusible link from a junkyard or a new one from a parts store. You may also need a new solenoid, sounds like yours might be bad inside.

The "battery gauge" you are speaking of, is it factory, or aftermarket? If it's the in dash gauge, it's probably a ammeter, which measures current but not voltage like a voltmeter does. They are a pain, as all the current has to be routed through them for them to read properly, and if you have a higher amp alternator, are subject to burning up just as you describe. They are not required, I would hook the wires that hooked to the back of it up together and bypass it. Then I would get a voltmeter, they only require a single 12 volt wire to operate, and give you a better indication of actual battery and charging conditions.

Thank you guys so much...know that I think of it I believe I did see the fusible link...and ill replace the solenoid too...I will check tomorrow and see if I can find out for sure.

Thanks everyone,

Thomas[

Replaced the fusible link and solenoid cleaned the battery terminals and it fired right up..... One more question what amp of fuse should I use? A 20 popped I replaced it with a 30 and it works and have not popped yet but I do have a 40 just wandering if anyone knows the right one.

Thanks again,

Thomas[