Straight axle and spindle galling

Hey guys, I have a forged so-cal axle and front end that I'm trying to assemble for mockup for my 28 Model A RPU.

Everything was new. The issue I'm having is the PS spindle is tight on the axle. I've filed and sanded to get it to fit better, and it initially works fine and the the surface of the spindle and axle gall together on the top side. The driver side is perfect with or without paint on it, and flops around easy. The passenger side is tight for some reason. Has anyone dealt with this that can recommend the best course of action and/or suggestions on the amount of clearance between the two that would be best as well as what level of finish would be best on both sides? I've attached a couple photos for reference. I bought new to make it easier on myself and I'm pulling my hair out. Hopefully someone can help.

This has only been assembled and put together on the bench, and did the pictured damage after 4-5 turn cycles after I initially had prepped both surfaces with 400 grit and cleaned them well. No brakes or steering installed, just the spindle. Everything is all new. Originally this side was really tight, I have sanding both sides of the top joint down with the DA and it's improving. Do I just keep doing that or am I missing something?

I don’t have a lot of experience but I would sand it more. The galling is from too much pressure on the two parts and not enough room for lubebrication.

Thanks! That's about what I'm going to do.

I actually got some good feedback (eventually) on the piggy forum. Tonight I'm going to measure everything up (including the other side), and see what clearances I have and what seems to be the issue. I was stuck thinking I was doing something wrong, so I was trying to correct my error and not thinking the parts were built wrong or unevenly.

I bought everything new at our local So-Cal dealer. I was assured all the parts were right. I was sold the wrong frame tabs for my application (even though I grilled him about it), the wrong center-link (2" too long), the wrong perches, and this issue. Learned my lesson there. I was able to shorten and re-thread the center link, now I'm doing this task. Good think I bought "good" new bolt-together parts.

Could it be that the hole is not exactly straight thru the beam? Looks like the galling is mostly on one side...just a thought!

I bought a Magnum dropped tube axle and spindles. One spindle fit fine. The other would bind at both ends of the travel. I used a flat file to create enough clearance. Tried to keep the flat surfaces flat. With a flap wheel or sanding disc it is likely the surfaces will become irregular, creating a high spot pressure point when the weight of the vehicle in in play. Your galling looks to be on the top of the axle where creating clearance doesn't need to be so precise.

bob w said:

I bought a Magnum dropped tube axle and spindles. One spindle fit fine. The other would bind at both ends of the travel. I used a flat file to create enough clearance. Tried to keep the flat surfaces flat. With a flap wheel or sanding disc it is likely the surfaces will become irregular, creating a high spot pressure point when the weight of the vehicle in in play. Your galling looks to be on the top of the axle where creating clearance doesn't need to be so precise.

Click to expand...

That's actually what I did, I didn't describe the whole process. I took it down with a flat file, then I used the DA to get rid of most of the scratches, then hand sanded the rest with a block by hand. As you said, it's on the top so flat isn't as important.

Thanks for the suggestion, I will measure everything up to make sure it's square and hopefully some more filing and I'll get it done. I'd love to be able to bolt the mock-up wheels on it and set it aside and get some other parts ready.

smallfoot said:

Could it be that the hole is not exactly straight thru the beam? Looks like the galling is mostly on one side...just a thought!

Click to expand...

I don't think so, but who knows with aftermarket stuff these days. Buying new isn't a time saver sometimes. I'll check that tonight too, thanks for the suggestion!

After measuring everything up I found that the bearing I was trying to put on the right side was 0.020" thicker than the left. I also found that the ears on the right spindle taper towards each other slightly as you get further from the spindle. The ears on the left spindle taper away from each other.

So I swapped the bearings and I have good clearance on the left still, on the right it was much better, I just need to file the top slightly to remove the galling damage and smooth that out a little. Once I've put it back together I'll level it out and check into what my case readings will be on each side of the axle to make sure the spindles are okay that way. Thanks all for your input, I appreciate it!