Turbo 350 trans...high revs to move!

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I used to build transmissions.
Might be a pressure regulator stuck.
I also never used a cloth type filter they are crap.
If after a rebuild I had a pressure regulator valve stick.
I would crank the engine so it would be warmed up then shut it off.

Then I would hold the gas to the floor crank the engine foot
down and let the engine rev quickly and high. Might take a time or two.
But you are doing it at your own risk, remember.

Just revving it up high when running doesn't do the trick most of the time.
Don't have it in gear, neutral is best.

If you installed the transmission with pressure back on the
pump gear it will wear the housing quickly. To late now if that.
I always made sure the convertor turned with an about 1/4 inch
clearance on assembly before bolting, with bell housing tight.

Don't panic if you pull the transmission up and the convertor locks
just back the bolts out a half inch pushup and turn the convertor
with hand pressure back on it . It should clunk in and you don't have
to drop it back down to get it in place.
I guess people know a powerglide flywheel will pull the convertor
out of the pump to far and knock the front of the drive tongs of the
inner pump gear off.
You can use it with enough spacers between flywheel and convertor.
 
Turned out to be low on fluid (thankfully). I had no idea it took 10-12 quarts to fill it up. Someone had told me you put as many quarts of fluid as you do oil (5). So after letting it run then checking the level it wasn't even showing any on the dipstick. So I added 4-5 more quarts then it finally showed about another quart short. All in all it moves now just by putting it in drive. Thanks to everyone for the help and advice!

Well that is good. Should have read that post before I did.
 
Sorry I wasn't around to help out on this one...

Low fluid would have been my first suggestion...seems like a lot of fluid doesn't it? but 10-12 quarts is about he norm if empty...like a rebuild...5 to 7 in the pan and the balance in the converter, cooler and lines depending on the trans...glad you got it sorted out....drive on... :D
 
Well came across something else today. I drove it up the road for the first time and it wouldn't shift. Now I'm being told that a hose needs to go from that nipple coming out of the trans up to the nipple coming out of the carb in order for it to build some sort of pressure to shift. Is that correct?
 
Ok so I read up about it being a vacuum hose that will cause it to shift. Hopefully that is the problem.
 
Would someone mind posting a picture of where on the intake or carb that the hose goes to from the transmission?
 
Here's a photo of an old 283. The steel line runs to the transmission modulator valve. (Factory or aftermarket, your intake manifold should have this boss in the runner.) The fitting in the boss will vary (according to year and options) but this is your connection point.


down_draft_tube_zps9187e81b.jpg


.
 
Here is a picture of the intake behind the carb. I have a hole blocked off as you can see in the pic. Is this where I need to run the hose from the trans?
 

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The 350 will shift manually without a vacuum hose.
You just have to start shifter in low run up to thirty say and pop into second
on up to forty and pop it in third.
If you ever have a hose pop off underneath and don't want to crawl under
your ride.
It will not shift at all with a bad governor gear.
 
Here's a photo of an old 283. The steel line runs to the transmission modulator valve. (Factory or aftermarket, your intake manifold should have this boss in the runner.) The fitting in the boss will vary (according to year and options) but this is your connection point.


down_draft_tube_zps9187e81b.jpg


.

That might be a 327 it has the right valve covers.
 
I had a 327 in a 57 in high school. If you had the timing where it
would run it would kick back. If you set it where it would crank it
would not run. I put timing gears in it and it didn't do a bit of good.

I ran a heater cable out from inside, slipped the hose off the vacuum advance,
slipped the end over the nipple, and put the hose back on.
When I wanted to crank I pushed the cable in and after it cranked
I pulled it back out.
 
Edge that was pretty smart ... I've heard other people had problems just like you described with the 327 ... they never did figure out what was wrong with it ..
 

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