My 40 Dodge Truck Build - Maybe a 41 LOL

I remember some 3/16" (also referred to as #12) screws in some places on my 39. Actually found some in a bubble pack at our local Menards store. Not a lot of choices in that size, but they had what I needed to get the job done.

Hey Gene. In going thru my bolts and seeing a 10 was too loose I thought about a 12 but never saw one.....could be.

The #12 screws are like the smaller versions, there are fine thread and course thread versions. Those #12 machine screws are not easy to find, I was surprised our Menards had them.

gene49 said:

The #12 screws are like the smaller versions, there are fine thread and course thread versions. Those #12 machine screws are not easy to find, I was surprised our Menards had them.

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Wow....yah I've never seen them.

Carb Help

Hey guys.... I can use some carburetor help. I spoke to the Eric at Hot Heads today, ordered some stuff to crank the hemi over, water crossover / thermostat housing, lower alternator bracket, polished alternator, mini high torque starter, billet pulleys, ect. They don't sell carburetors but recommended I go with the smallest 4 barrells..... I'll be running 2 of em. That's a 390 Holley, single pumper. Looking at the Holley site I see 2 styles, 1 with the butterfly and 1 without. They also show manual choke and auto choke. I'm guessing manual choke? But not sure of the other. Here's 2 links if anyone can help. Thanks

with the butterfly https://www.holley.com/products/fue...factory_refurbished_carburetors/parts/FR-8007

with out https://www.holley.com/products/fue...tory_refurbished_carburetors/parts/FR-80507-1

Couper said:

Wow....yah I've never seen them.

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Here is one of the packages I bought. The machine screws are also made in 32 thread count.

Couper said:

Wow....yah I've never seen them.

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On the carbs, the first link, carbs with the top butterfly are street carbs and if you even want or need any kind of choke (manual or automatic), you need that top butterfly.

The 2nd link is the NASCAR approved carb for modified racing. That racing carb is not really designed for street use.

Depending on the intake desigh, you probably want both carbs the same. I'b but the ones in the 1st link with the top butterfly.

gene49 said:

On the carbs, the first link, carbs with the top butterfly are street carbs and if you even want or need any kind of choke (manual or automatic), you need that top butterfly.

The 2nd link is the NASCAR approved carb for modified racing. That racing carb is not really designed for street use.

Depending on the intake desigh, you probably want both carbs the same. I'b but the ones in the 1st link with the top butterfly.

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Thanks Gene!

Carb Update

So in talking to the folks at Hot Heads they have recommended that I run 1 - 600 cfm carb on my 331 so I've ordered and received the 1 x 4 top plate for my Hot Heads intake and will be removing the 2 x 4 plate. The smallest 4 barrel I could find was 390's

The 600 cfm tumble polished Holley came today and looks purty. It comes with linkage to accept the 700/R4 kickdown. I'm gona get me a Hillborn Finned Air Cleaner Scoop to top it off. Always wanted one of those!

I think I have almost everything I need to finish assembly and bring this baby to life!

I'm thinking about mufflers now and could use some direction. Coming out of my 3" collector I'm thinking about going down to 2.5" then a 10" or so straight piece of 2.5" and I have about 24" between cab mounts for a pair of bullet type mufflers. I think open headers are going to be too loud for me. The mufflers will be right behind the rockers and have a turn down under the cab. That may be loud as well.

I really don't want to run the pipes to under the bed because I didn't make any provisions to go thru the lower rear cab wall and don't want to mess with my body work at this point. I shoulda thought that thru but didn't.

Any idea's which 3.5" or 4" round casing mufflers would be best? I see Summit has some Dynomax that are 16.5" long https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-24215 and some Thrush Glass Packs that are 3.5 x 23" https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-24453 Would it be safe to assume that longer would be quieter? Both are 2.5"

Any thoughts? Thanks Guys

You're still gonna be fairly noisy ending up under the cab. I originally put mine there and got tired of it fast. I couldn't hear the stereo and after a while it made my head hurt if the ride was any distance. Mine are just round Thrushes and I figure they're probably about cleaned out by now. 8 years, same muffs. I added pipes to out the back past the bumper. Side by side and about a foot apart. People tell me they sound pretty good from behind when I stomp that skinny pedal.

smallfoot said:

You're still gonna be fairly noisy ending up under the cab. I originally put mine there and got tired of it fast. I couldn't hear the stereo and after a while it made my head hurt if the ride was any distance. Mine are just round Thrushes and I figure they're probably about cleaned out by now. 8 years, same muffs. I added pipes to out the back past the bumper. Side by side and about a foot apart. People tell me they sound pretty good from behind when I stomp that skinny pedal.

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Oh Crapsy. Well.... I'll start out like this and if I have to I'll go thru the cab wall I will. If I'm gona do that I'll have to do it before I paint. I can hit it with a hole saw but I'll have to redo the body work in that area....arrgg. Thanks Smalls

Hey, you might like it. I'm trying to save what little bit of hearing I have left. Lots of guns, loud machinery, and trucks and no hearing protection have about done me in....huh, whad ya say???

What did you say?

Frame Color

Whatda you guys think about painting my frame a sort of contrasting Navy Blue? My Body parts are going to be Toyota Calvery Blue. Maybe Semi gloss powder coat Black on the I-Beam front suspension for durability.... maybe rear 4 link as well?

Any cool pic's of contrasting frame to body pics?

Non of this will be metallic...all old school sorta vintage paint....

Thoughts? Thanks

So, how much of the frame will you actually be able to see?

The bed sides, and the cab covered most of the frame on my 39. Then the hood sides and front sheet metal over hung most of the front frame. About the only frame that was visible was in front of the grille.

You'll see a good amount of the frame. The horns in front of the grill, the frame from the rear of the nose piece to the firewall including motor mounts, frame as it goes under the headers, the front Z, little peek where I z'd the rockers and then the rear area where my bed insert hinges up to show the rear 4 link.
Some pics

I like the idea of dark blue on the frame. Most are black or body color, the contrast should look good.[P[cl

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Bamamav said:

I like the idea of dark blue on the frame. Most are black or body color, the contrast should look good.[P[cl

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Cool Beans Bama...the more I kick it around the more I'm liking it,

With that much frame being seen, I really like the darker color blue with the body color.