My 40 Dodge Truck Build - Maybe a 41 LOL

Rat Rods Rule

Help Support Rat Rods Rule:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Couper said:
Hope everyone is tinkering away today! Beautiful here today at 57!

I have a couple questions...

I am coupling my 331 to an 700R4. I have the engine adapter plate bolted up and was getting ready to mount the flex plate. The flex plate comes with an aluminum plate this is a slip fit to the crank flange, then the flex plate bolts up to it. After a little clean up of the crank flange the plate fits nicely.

The issue is the bolting, they have a very narrow hex head and came with some nylon locking bolts. Does any know if these hex heads are supposed to between the motor and crank flange pointing outwards towards the trans? Or the other way. It's going to be a bugger to get a wrench between the flex plate and motor to hold these. At least a full head would be easier.....if i can reach. Any ideas?

The second question has to do with my radiator fill cap. My fill cap will be under my nose piece and not accessible. I didn't want to go thru the top of the nose piece with a radiator neck extension. My idea was to put an inline filler cap i the top radiator hose which i bought from summit at the tune of 74.00. It's billet and nice but it may be too close to the edge of the nose piece and feel it's going to interrupt the look of things.

Do I really need that filler? Can I fill thru an overflow like we do on newer vehicles? Will the cap allow antifreeze to go both ways or only out from the radiator to the overflow?

Thanks guys
Click to expand...

I'd think that the bolts should go in facing the block - would you even be able to put them in from between the crank flange and the block?? Maybe the narrow heads are for clearance to the torque converter....
With the right cap on the rad, that should work like new cars - fill the rad before the shell goes on, and it should allow you to fill the top tank more - then it can transfer fluid back and forth as needed...
 
On my 392 I ended up threading the crank shaft flex plate mounting holes so I could use 1/2x20 grade 8 bolts. This is way better than trying to use the factory stuff.
The holes in the crank are 7/16 and can be threaded with a 1/2x20 tap. Use blue Loctite on the threads for added security.
 
zzrodder said:
I'd think that the bolts should go in facing the block - would you even be able to put them in from between the crank flange and the block?? Maybe the narrow heads are for clearance to the torque converter....
With the right cap on the rad, that should work like new cars - fill the rad before the shell goes on, and it should allow you to fill the top tank more - then it can transfer fluid back and forth as needed...
Click to expand...

Thanks ZZ... I'm gona try that overflow. I'd prefer not to use that inline fill.

I'm going to check the existing hole size and if not oversize I'm gona tap them like OI mentioned below.
 
Old Iron said:
On my 392 I ended up threading the crank shaft flex plate mounting holes so I could use 1/2x20 grade 8 bolts. This is way better than trying to use the factory stuff.
The holes in the crank are 7/16 and can be threaded with a 1/2x20 tap. Use blue Loctite on the threads for added security.
Click to expand...

I like that idea a lot OI.... thanks!
 
Antifreeze?

Good Morning Gents.

Time to get some antifreeze in the buggy..... I have an Aluminum Rad and those Hot Heads Aluminum Heads. Can someone recommend the best antifreeze to use? I might have some cooling issues and would like the best possible cooling ability. I see that water wetter stuff has no freeze protection.

A recommendation on Thermostat temp would be helpful as well.

Thanks Fella's
 
Old Iron said:
You're welcome. I'd recommend not using a cheap tap also.
Anything to make assembly easier.
Click to expand...

Did that tapping job yesterday OI..... was a piece of cake. I also had to drill out the aluminum adapter plate and the mounting holes in the flex plate nice and tight to accept the 1/2-20 bolts. Thanks for the idea
 
Couper said:
Thanks ZZ... I'm gona try that overflow. I'd prefer not to use that inline fill.

I'm going to check the existing hole size and if not oversize I'm gona tap them like OI mentioned below.
Click to expand...

So I'm not going to use that inline fill..... not enough top hose and it would be too close to the nose piece and spoil the look. I slid the nose piece back on and have about 2.5" between the cap and the nose piece. Just enough room to get in there to remove the cap. I'm gona get one of those caps with the lever on it to make it easier... I think that lifts the spring mechanism. I'll fill when I need to with a 1/2 hose and a hand transfer pump. For as often as I'd need to add antifreeze I can live with it.
 

Attachments

  • DSCF6394.jpg
    DSCF6394.jpg
    76.1 KB · Views: 12
  • DSCF6397.jpg
    DSCF6397.jpg
    78.2 KB · Views: 12
Old Iron said:
A friend of mine, that ran the monster trucks, turned me on to Evan's, now I use Evan's waterless coolant.

https://www.amazon.com/EVANS-Coolant-EC53001-Performance-Waterless/dp/B014HC8HRY?th=1

It's pricey but, it's permanent.
Do not use any water of any kind just straight Evan's and since yours is a fresh build, you won't have to purchase the Evan's prep to get rid of residual water in the system.
Click to expand...

I saw that online.... is the fact that if you get out on the road and can't use water an issue?
 
No but, if you do add water then the system has to be drained then purged of the remaining water with the prep liquid.
 
Looks like cool stuff....i like the higher boiling point as well but am concerned about blowing a hose or something and not having it on hand. Do you have a second choice or is this all you are using these days?
 
I knew a guy who tried that Evans stuff, he loved it until he hated it after blowing a hose. Didn't have any to replace what he lost, had to drain it all out, flush it, then put regular antifreeze in. Cost him a pretty penny.

I just use regular green Prestone or WalMart brand, whichever is cheaper. In my last semi truck, had to run that high mileage red stuff.

Whichever you decide on, don't mix it, no matter what the label says!
 
Bamamav said:
I knew a guy who tried that Evans stuff, he loved it until he hated it after blowing a hose. Didn't have any to replace what he lost, had to drain it all out, flush it, then put regular antifreeze in. Cost him a pretty penny.

I just use regular green Prestone or WalMart brand, whichever is cheaper. In my last semi truck, had to run that high mileage red stuff.

Whichever you decide on, don't mix it, no matter what the label says!
Click to expand...

It looks like great stuff and OI's the man.....that's what I worry about, getting out in da boone docks and blowing a hose.
 
So after installing the engine driven fan I decided I didn't like it. My biggest issue is the center of the water pump shaft / fan wasn't centered in the radiator core. The top of the blade was an inch over the tank and bottom short 1.5" on the core.

I used the biggest radiator I could fit in my grill shell but due to the grill shell limitations I couldn't raise it enough to center it. Bottom line is I just couldn't look at it.....one of those things that would bug the hell at of me.

I bought the aluminum shroud and electric fan from cold case and it looks much better.....hopefully it will cool. I imagine with the way the shroud fits the air flow will be 100%.
 

Attachments

  • DSCF6409.jpg
    DSCF6409.jpg
    90.4 KB · Views: 7
Last couple days were full of obstacles....the fan deal above and the alternator mounting bracket, water pump pulley, crank pulley & alternator pulley.

There's a few shims that Hot Head tells me come with the HH timing cover. I don't have them so they are on the way. They tell me these shims will bring the water pump out to the crank pulley. I'm not sure but the crank pulley may have to go in a bit which can be accomplished by taking a skim cut on the backside of the crank pulley.... no big deal.

I had planned on using the lower alt bracket on the driver side but my vega steering box interferes with it. I thought I was dead in the water and was going to drive the alternator off the drive shaft but the bracket can be swapped to the passenger side.

So there were 2 issues with this...... lower radiator hose and the alternator pulley is about 1/8 to 3/16 to far forward.

I'm solving the hose issue with a 45 degree joiner and then a 90 to the pump...I don't have em yet but am sure it will work fine. The alternator can be moved backward by trimming a bushing and milling the alternator ear back the same amount.

So far so good......
 

Attachments

  • DSCF6410.jpg
    DSCF6410.jpg
    93.7 KB · Views: 10
  • DSCF6404.jpg
    DSCF6404.jpg
    92.8 KB · Views: 9
Question..... Any ideas on how I can fill the engine with antifreeze to eliminate and air voids or overheating on starting this beast for the first time?

I'm thinking maybe using a transfer pump to pump the antifreeze into the driver side rear head port until it comes out the passenger side port?

Maybe while the radiator hoses are hooked up?

Thanks
 

Similar threads

bob w
1930 Dodge truck, not a Fargo
5 6 7
Replies
125
Views
15K
BillM
BillM
redidbull
Wives
Replies
18
Views
591
mikec4193
mikec4193
G
My 49 Plymouth coupe build
2
Replies
39
Views
4K
smallfoot
smallfoot
C
My 1930 Tudor build
Replies
11
Views
343
cooolcars10
C
lowbudget50
Doing things backwards?!?
2
Replies
30
Views
7K
gene49
G

Latest posts

Back
Top