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Welding/Metalworking... Talk & Q&A Get your torch, braze, hammer, tig or mig on here!

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Old 06-09-2017, 09:12 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: near yelloystone park
Posts: 176
Default weld quality

Practice then test your welds Jody on tips and tricks shows hot to do an easy etch of your test samplls to check your penetration. ..a few years ago I stopped at a friends house and his high school age kids had traded for a T bucket project from some high school buddies. The frame was a little tweaked and I said I could fix it with my High lift Jeep jack and a piece of chain. It didn;t take much pressure and the welds starting breaking. That is the problem with Mig welds they can look purdy on the outside but no penetration Practice then do bend, cut samples and etch and if possible do a pull test.
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Old 06-09-2017, 10:39 PM
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Bamamav Bamamav is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Berry, Alabama
Posts: 5,078

We were taught the basics in Ag class, and got some hands on experience. Stick and torch, Mig or wire welding wasn't that popular yet, nor was Tig. I welded on a construction site, Govt job, got certified by the Army Corps of Engineers to weld on the site. Got better the more I welded. This was on heavy gauge steel. Learned how to weld without blowing through, and learned how to cut with a rod when a torch wasn't around. Ever try cutting a #9 rebar with a stick welder? When I left that job, it was several years before I picked up a welder again, and it was just like starting over, I had to relearn a lot of what I used to know. Finally bought myself a gasless mig, 110 volt China box, learned how to use it pretty good, then it got stolen. I replaced it with a 110 volt Lincoln Handy Mig, gas/ gasless, it's a much better machine. I still use my old Lincoln 220 volt buzz box stick welder for heavier gauge metal, but for sheet metal or thin stuff I use the Mig with flux core wire, still haven't gotten a tank yet for gas.

I can't lay down pretty beads anymore, eyesight just isn't what it was even with glasses, but seldom have a problem with welds breaking. But, I do own a couple of grinders, if it needs to be pretty I can always smooth it out. I'd rather have to fix a blow through and know I got good penetration than have a pretty weld that is just on the surface.
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Old 06-10-2017, 10:42 AM
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Sam_Fear Sam_Fear is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Dixon, IA
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Originally Posted by kenny c View Post
I agree with sam on most things. Some of the newer name brand 110 migs will do more than the old ones. If the specs on it says it will weld up 3/8 inch you can do frame work.
I still wouldn't want to trust critical welds on a chasis to a guy with my welding experience (which is fairly limited) and a 110v machine. I want to take as much error out of the equation as possible.
Not so current build - '29 A Rats-N-Rice. Drivers! - '48 Olds '63 F100. Pile of parts - '30 Tudor.
"Tough to find rolling papers that size, but it tastes like plastic bags and smells like arrogance!" -Dr. Crankenstein
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Old 07-04-2017, 12:42 AM
suicide33plymouth suicide33plymouth is offline
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 48
Default Welds

I have welded for a living and am certified for mig and tig light gauge metal and went thru the whole corse on stick welding . I've seen people posting on how they weld thick metal with multi passes and tapered edges with a 110v . Just my opinion and how I roll is I wouldn't trust a 110v on any major stress points on frames even with tapered edges and many passes but that's just me and I'm sure people have done it with success but I wouldn't do it with anything less than a 220v miller or even a Lincoln "miller is my preference" . Just cause that weld would be on my mind every damn time I hop on the freeway or do some thing stupid like burnouts ect. That's just my opinion
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Old 07-04-2017, 01:00 AM
suicide33plymouth suicide33plymouth is offline
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 48
Default Different welds

People think mig is the easiest cause you just pull a trigger but just understand that mig will lay down a weld with out proper penitration so with practice on adjusting proper settings and hand movement you can drop some nice welds pretty easy . Tig on the other hand is more of a balancing act if I can compare it to anything . one hand is feeding the rod and one hand is controlling the torch and one foot is controlling the power coming out the torch atleast on a foot controlled set up . They do have tig set ups that are not controlled by your foot and set at a certain voltage and started by tapping or scratching the tungsten on the metal . My opinion is to learn mig first so you can learn how to control a puddle and your hand movements also. Then tig will come easy . Well it did for me atleast . I use mig 90 percent of the time cause I'm usually welding on the frames or fixing broken **** on cars not on a bench where the metal is super clean and you have perfect situations . Not saying you can't tig weld these things but mig is a little easier laying down under stuff and tight spaces and weird angles . Hope this helps you out on your welding journey .
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Old 08-14-2017, 10:04 PM
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Ricks Garage Ricks Garage is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Boynton Beach, FL
Posts: 264

My mother taught me to weld sheet metal with a Lincoln arc welder, 220v when I was 13 (no **** man) She had worked in the Philly Navy yard during the war.
Learned gas welding in college, MIG welding during the 1980's and self taught TIG welder. I have taught myself how to TIG and MIG weld aluminum.

Get a MIG welder that uses argon/co2. You will not be happy with flux wire welds. Also get yourself a small arc welder to do frame and bracket fabrication for the penetration.

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