Ford 300 motor

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old28

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 22, 2009
Messages
681
Location
Camarillo, Ca
Changing direction on a inline 6 build. Was going to build a Chevy 292, but I am going to try my hand on a Ford 300 6.

Looking for a good/clean (no grease ball job) complete rebuildable motor in the Southern Calif. area. Also interested in hot rod performance parts for a 240/300 Ford Inline Six.

PM me if you have parts.
 
Good news, found a 300 inline 6, price was free, now that's a deal.[cl

Will add a build thread to this site with pictures for those that may be interested.
This will be a hot street motor build that will run on prem. pump gas. I will lay out the complete build idea with parts in a few days. This build can be done on a 240 or 300 motor with 240 68cc heads or 300 76cc heads. Hope to make 250 - 275 HP.
 
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Let's see it.

What's the 6 going into?

30+ years ago, there was a Vega prowling our streets... had a HOT straight 6 in it... it was quick and fast, at least for those days...

.
 
Dr Crankenstein--- Motor is going on a run stand for awhile. Later I may put it into a drag race altered T Roadster or modify a bit more 10.0 CR up to 11.75 and better P&P on the heads then into an altered.
 
Nice score, Tom. I sure hope you surround that engine with 4 wheels and a bit of a body and get it out to the strip.
 
Dr Crankenstein -- Thanks will post progress & pictures as I get going.

bobw -- Bob, I am like you and it is more about the build than driving these days. I would really like to see the motor in a short wheel base 95" bantum roadster at around 1850-2000 lbs. If it happens my old drag race partner will drive.


Just to get started this is some what the direction I am going, As always I am open to new idea's and helpful criticism ;)

This is the basic motor layout.
300 block with standard cast crankshaft
Ford 352 Flat top pistons 4.030 w/3cc valve pocket after top milling .022 off the piston tops.
Pistons to block deck .020
CR 8.50 - 10.0
76cc head, P&P, 1.94 Int/1.60 Exh, 7/16 screw in rocker studs
BBC 1.7 roller rockers
Crower 19205 Hyd Cam & springs
HD EFI Exhaust Manifold
Dual Autolite 2100 1.08 two barrels
Home made plenum Intake for dual carbs

Hope to make 200 HP in this configuration on Prem Pump Gas

Stay toned for more [P
 
Picked up my core 300 motor today. Will try to get year it was built and a few other numbers along with some start build pictures.[P
 
Picked up my core 300 motor yesterday, have not checked out numbers for the block or head yet. Motor has been disassembled and has original size standard pistons in it that have no marks on the piston skirts or the bore. This motor was removed from a farm truck when it had valve train problems. It is an EFI motor and the problem was it cleaned a bunch of teeth off the cam gear. As this was years ago the motor was pulled and went into the bone yard and new motor was installed. I would be surprised if it had a few thousand miles on it.

The head is a 300 that ran pedistal mount rockers. My question is how much has to be milled from the already flat bosses to drill and tap for screw in 7/16 rocker studs? Is the number .250? I will be running guide plates also.

Have posted over on Ford 6 site also.
 
Was able to spend some time going over the motor & parts today. The block casting number is F2TE-6015-BA so it is a 1992 Truck Engine. I reset the crank in the block and both the main & rod bearings are standard Ford factory units. I measured the #1 piston torqued in place to see how far down it was in the bore (.021") I was thinking it would be .040-.050". The pistons are original Ford standard units that like I said, no skirt marks & no cylinder wall marks. All bearings look like new. I really think this motor had only a few miles in a ranch truck and they needed it repaired ASAP so they pulled motor and put in a new replacement. This motor sat in their bone yard until I picked it up in 2010 for a buddy of mine. The rancher that gave me the motor is a race buddy of ours. 25% of the cam teeth were broken off.

Can not find head number, the chambers are heart shape with D dish pistons. Dish is .325" deep. Head used pedestal rockers and I want to convert to 7/16 screw in studs with 1.7 BBC roller rockers for this build.
 

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Tom, When I put screw in rocker arm studs in my head I had the shop leave the stud boss untouched. Figured that would match up with the longer Chevy valve stems. I was wrong. I couldn't use BBC rocker arms and in order to get proper rocker arm geometry I used custom length Smith push rods and Sharp aluminum standard ratio rocker arms. I also had to raise the roof of the valve cover to fit it all in. I think cutting the stud boss .250" would avoid the problems and expense I incurred.
 
Bob w, thanks for the information. Were you heads the early style with pressed in 3/8 studs or the late EFI pedestal type like mine?

Another thing, I am not sure that 1.94 intake will fit my heads. I may have to settle for 1.84 intake as the fast burn wall are very close to the intake out side edge. Not really worried about push rods as I will be running SBC adjustable guide plates and the push rods need to be heat treated. I think I will run thicker wall 5/16 rods like you have.

As I stated before this motor is a 1992 with .325 deep dish pistons but the piston to deck is only .021. The heart shape heads are 69cc and Ford rated the motor at 8.8 CR. I am going to replace the pistons with some 352 V8 units milled flat so I have a deck of .055 for a 10.0 CR.

Nice to finally get started on the build.[cl
 
This is from my thread over on Ford 6 site

Please take a look at the picture of the head chamber with the stock 1.775 Intake valve in place. I am not sure there is enough room to mount a 1.94 intake valve in the head as it is now. I do not want to do a lot of chamber machine work. I am thinking that may have to go to a little smaller 1.84 Intake. Take a look at the picture and see what you think. If I can do a 1.94 that is what I want. I will haul the head over to my machinist next week for him to take a look at.

member reply --

There should be room for a 1.94" intake valve.
Bolt the head back on the block and scribe the cylinder bore on to the head surface.
That will show you how far you can grind the chamber walls back away from the intake valve.
Also grind the radius back that is on the quench pad (Flat area) while still keeping the heart shape.

This is one of my 300 heads where I ground the walls back for a 2.02" intake valve.
You can see the circular scribe line.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/9dpif5xrxob8g ... 0.JPG?dl=0
Yes it is different than the EFI head but will give you a visual to work with.

This is usually where comments come in about messing up the quick burn swirl feature of the EFI chamber.

my reply ---

Thanks for the information and the picture. I will mark the head before I run by the machine shop so he can see what I have in mind. This whole motor build, piston, head, cam, valve train will be way different than Ford had for an EFI with quick burn. The 194/160 valves, crower 19205 cam, flat top pistons and 10.0 CR will make up for any mods to the head chamber.

This is what is fun, building something different with a plan on were you want to end up. :D
 

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I have changed direction on the Ford 300 4.9L motor as this is my first shot at a Ford six. I have done three Chevy 6 motors 194", 250", 292" in the past but this 300 is a little different and I am learning along the way.

Been picking up parts for the last few months and should be getting head & block to the machine shop in January.

The revised motor spec's are as follows:
Bore & stroke -- 4.030" x 3.98"
Piston Type -- 4.030" Hypereutectic D-dish 22cc
Block will be -0- deck (.021" milled off)
Compression Ratio -- 9.3
1992 EFI fast burn chamber head
Mild port & polish
1.84" & 1.60" Chevy In/ex valves
Comp Cam 903 valve springs
RV performance cam
7/16 screw in rocker studs
BBC 1.7 roller rockers
Offy dual port intake
500 CFM carb
Electronic distributor

Will try to add pictures as the build progresses.
 

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