I need a brake

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Old Iron

Well-known member
Joined
May 19, 2011
Messages
15,253
Location
Willard Mo.
Solved my brake dilemma

OK, I've never had a problem with brakes, until now [S
I put the entire front end out of a 73 1/2 ton with disc brakes, on the front of my 66 C10 along with a rebuilt Wagner dual reservoir master cylinder, rebuilt calipers, all new steel lines and new rubber brake lines.
I bled the system by gravity feed then a two person pump and bleed then a vacuum pump. No air coming out of the bleeders just fluid.
Still I have a soft pedal goes half way down before I get any kind of pedal too.
I did not use a proportioning valve this round. Does a proportioning valve hold any kind of residual pressure to the brakes at all :confused:
Or does it just regulate pressure to the rear so they don't slide the rear tires ?
Things I've done:
Got another master cylinder to see if that could be it and it made no difference :(
Checked the size of the master cylinder, it's a 1-1/8" bore.
Help :)
 
Last edited:
Prop valves don't work as a residual valve, residuals are in the m/cyl. Think maybe you have a problem with the rears? I assuming you still have drums on the back...may need adjusting if you still have drums on the rear. Everything else sounds okay but the 73 setup did use a combo valve (prop and metering) Should still be able to get a pedal without it.
 
Prop valves don't work as a residual valve, residuals are in the m/cyl. Think maybe you have a problem with the rears? I assuming you still have drums on the back...may need adjusting if you still have drums on the rear. Everything else sounds okay but the 73 setup did use a combo valve (prop and metering) Should still be able to get a pedal without it.
Still have rear drums.
Forgot to mention that I adjusted them up some, to the point they drug a little.
I didn't think the prop valve had any residual to them. Thanks
 
You don't have too much free play from the pushrod into the m/cyl do you? I have run across that before causing the same kind of problem you have. Otherwise I'd try the other master. Hope this helps!
 
You don't have too much free play from the pushrod into the m/cyl do you? I have run across that before causing the same kind of problem you have. Otherwise I'd try the other master. Hope this helps!
All I done was adjust the rod where the pivot bolt went in the pedal arm without pushing the rod any.
I already changed the mst and it made no difference.
I installed a rebuilt booster and changed the rod from a manual brake to a power brake rod.
Thanks
 
You didn't mention whether you used residual valves or not!! If you're m/c is mounted in a fairly low location, you'll need them!!
No residual valves. The master is located on the firewall, in the factory position.
Thanks
I know I'm missing something just don't know what :confused:
 
Solved my brake dilemma

Got to thinkin, which hurt.
I remember seeing a brake pedal arm that had two holes in it, one was for a manual brake system for more leverage and the other was for a power brake system which needs less pressure on the pedal :eek:
So I drilled another hole 3/4" lower in the pedal arm and now I have full pedal and great brakes :cool:
Thanks to all that helped, I appreciate it [cl
 

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