Building a V-16

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I talked to a friend who restored the MSRA Twin engine dragster. He said it didn't matter how they were timed. Just hook them together and go.
 
There were quite a few twin engine dragsters during the NHRA "Fuel" ban. The one that comes to mind is The Freight Train. Twin small block Chevys and the story I read about it I think the engines fired in unison and they said the important thing was perfect cam and ignition timing. I think they were they were coupled with a double chain around two sprockets. read this a long tine ago but I bet a Google search... Sounds killer and best of luck![;)
 
Quick update, got the monster home! No small feat. Gonna strip it to bare frame and cab. That's saying a hell of a lot in one sentence. This thing came w/ 4spd trans. and was converted to auto somewhere along the line. Monster retarder and huge emergency brake added. Gobs of extra metal added for mounts plus huge substructure for ladder turret. Building truck...easy, stripping truck....bitch. Here we go!
 

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Two things That I was thinking about. As far as mounting the two engines, they could both be mounted solid in one long craddle so that they could be aligned perfectly either with shims or jack screws or a system of your likeing. As for the phaseing of the two engines, and I know this is a lot smaller but the same concept. On the twin engine mini bike that I built with a friend that he drag races. We have tried the phased 180, 90, and 45 degrees appart. and the vibrate,shake and brake the coupleing chain. With them both fireing together the run so smooth you can't even tell if the ignition is shut off to one engine.
 
Two things That I was thinking about. As far as mounting the two engines, they could both be mounted solid in one long craddle so that they could be aligned perfectly either with shims or jack screws or a system of your likeing. As for the phaseing of the two engines, and I know this is a lot smaller but the same concept. On the twin engine mini bike that I built with a friend that he drag races. We have tried the phased 180, 90, and 45 degrees appart. and the vibrate,shake and brake the coupleing chain. With them both fireing together the run so smooth you can't even tell if the ignition is shut off to one engine.

Yes, I am considering timing them straight up but as a last resort. I'm thinking I can get them balanced and timed and tune real close. One tip I've gotten that should help is to put a flywheel on the front engine to absorb some balance instead of transferring it to the snout of rear engine. I'm going to run a short tailshaft 727 from a motorhome type deal. I'll mock up the bare blocks w/cranks on a matched pair of I beams and make real strong steel braces that bolt between the blocks. I plan on front and rear motor plates both engines and a trans crossmember w/ urethane mount. Meantime going to burn up lots of acetalene and oxy.
 
With the amount of space you have, what about them separately and running "drive shafts" to a reverse transfer case that would funnel both engines into a common transmission. it would be possible to disconnect one engine with a splined coupler if necessary. Not as cool as a V16, but less of a headache.
 
With the amount of space you have, what about them separately and running "drive shafts" to a reverse transfer case that would funnel both engines into a common transmission. it would be possible to disconnect one engine with a splined coupler if necessary. Not as cool as a V16, but less of a headache.

Yeah, that's a possibility. Afraid it's out of the budget. Concentrating on the low and midrange capabilities of this engine, meaning stock iron cylinder heads and valve gear, mild cams, I think I can keep the cost down. BIG torque, really cool exhaust notes, unusual combo are primary goal. Dual 6" exhaust with 512 c.i. out each side has got to sound cool. Pretty sure I can get the V16 del done for less than a 605 or 632c.i. mopar engine. We'll see.
 
I would try engine plates front and back on both engines mounted to a common cradle as suggested. Both engines tied together as one with the cradle isolated from the frame. Both engines timed straight up.
 
Little update. Ladders in a pile now. 3 different size cables running thru them. The rollers were brass stantions w/aluminum rollers. Going to be interesting how much brass and copper come out of this deal. There is nothing hoeky on this truck. built hell for stout. Will make good base for what I want.
 

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Mo bangin. That's over 1k# of tool boxes in background. The turret ring was crazy. Over an inch thick, machined grove with about 3/4" steel balls. Those cages that hold the balls are bronze. Turned out another groove on the bottom of ring w/ 1/2" balls. 210 on top 360 on bottom. Nobody can say I don't have lots of balls. (if I didn't say it somebody else would have). Building jack stands out of part of the outriggers. Almost got all of the superstructure off. Building truck EEEEEasy, taqking truck apart BBBitch.
 

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Down to it now! Repurposed outrigger foot into jack stand prototype, gussets to follow.
 

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Quick update. finally got it down to bare frame. Got it with no eng. or trans. and have cut right at 14,000 lbs. of steel, brass, & copper off it. Bought chassis form a 2001 international 4300. Took complete front axle and suspension and got it mounted. Going to the newer power steering box. Using rear axle and locator spring and mount and am going to make air ride. Using 19.5 tires to hold it up for now. Will be using 22.5's in the end. Wheelbase @ 221", going to do a 21' bed. Been doing measuring and figuring to make engine cradle. Stripping out cab next.
 

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