Bagging My Old Truck?

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Charley Davidson

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 6, 2010
Messages
1,153
Location
In my bus in Murfreesboro, Tn
If I bag my old truck (64 Dodge D100) front & rear can I remove the front springs & cut them just in front of the axle then use the back half (1 leaf) for bones?

The rear I would just use 1 leaf and some big bags like on my bus.
 
I've thought about that myself. The geometry will work fine, but I'm wondering about the stress part. All the force will be on that spring section during braking. No different than bones though - stress wise. Hmmm..... [S
 
I'm thinking that if you leave it with just one leaf that it may by able to "wrap" up under hard braking loads and posibly break. Similar to how rear leaf springs can "wrap" up under hard lanching accerlation. I would suggest replacing the spring altogether with a peace of spuare tubing. Put a bushing in it at the frame end and bolt the front of it directly to the axel pad with the original U-bolts. You could also incorporate that lower bag mount into these.
 
Thanks for the help/input

How will this effect bump steer? At what point will I get bump steer? height/speed

I think I can lower it 3 inches before I will get bump steer.

Other things I need to be aware of or change?

If I'm just putting around I would like to run it as low as possible the raise it to a safe/comfortable height when on the hi-way or driving at speed.
 
I'm not real familiar with the stearing set up in that truck. Is is a drag link or a cross steering system. I'm pretty sure is a cross steer, either way you want to keep your steering link relatively level with the axel at driving height.
This will help to limit the amount of arce the steering link could swing in as the suspension goes through it's motions. You may also need a parallel link on the axle to limit its sway side to side.
 
I would suggest replacing the spring altogether with a peace of spuare tubing. Put a bushing in it at the frame end and bolt the front of it directly to the axel pad with the original U-bolts. You could also incorporate that lower bag mount into these.

Perfect!

Your axle hitting the frame is what will limit how much of a drop you can have. You'll probably have a 8-10" lift range with bags - so you can leave your drag link alone until you have the bags in. In other words, you can air up bags to the ride height you have now, then see how it steers at different levels and go from there.

Don't put the bags directly over the axle. You'll want to place them so you have full travel of the bags.

Are you planning on getting a bag kit, or doing this as cheap as possible? Tank, valves, pump, etc.
 
Here's a picture of what I have and a link to them. I'm missing the mount off of one but no big deal as I'm sure they will get mounted differently anyhow.
air bags.jpg
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FIP-6397/All/
 
can I remove the front springs & cut them just in front of the axle then use the back half (1 leaf) for bones?QUOTE]

If you cut the spring into you will have to deal with side to side movement, with a panhard bar. On my rear I made 2x2 trailing arms and used the spring bushings with a p h bar. Not sure how something like that would work on the front.
 

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Looks like those bags are 5-1/2" lift. They are designed more for load than for lowrider. Probably best for your app. though since you'll still want to haul. You can also get more lift out of them if you put them on the bones rather than over the axle. Also, those probably don't have internal stops, so you don't want them to carry weight when totally deflated.

Read this completely: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/watts-link-front-axle-179131.html I think he gave up early...
 
Thanks Sam for your responses & the link (read the entire thread) I think I'll just go to a single full leaf (maybe flip it) and use the bags.

How would you suggest I mount them? Mount design? Can I weld a mounting plate to the spring it self or will that mess with spring temper and flex?

The upper mount will be easy enough to just fab onto the side of the frame rail.

Seems to me the lower bag mount would be easier to make & work better if I went right over where the spring mounts to the axle (correct me if I'm wrong)
 
Looks like those bags are 5-1/2" lift. They are designed more for load than for lowrider. Probably best for your app. though since you'll still want to haul. You can also get more lift out of them if you put them on the bones rather than over the axle. Also, those probably don't have internal stops, so you don't want them to carry weight when totally deflated.QUOTE]

These do have a 6" lift. I uses these because when I was looking at the size and dimensions these fit the best used all 4 the same.(Not alot of airride around here to compare to)

The trouble I had (used a 69 GM truck rear w/ph bar)with the travel was that with such short trailing arm the axle arched during travel --) and would want to twist the panhard bar and bind it, so I put a heim joint on one end of PH bar to allow for the twist and all worked fine.
reading your post sounds like that guy may have been having some of the same troubles.
 
I got this pair at the scrap yard, the guy bought them new and never got around to using them & ended up loosing one of the base mounts, I paid .20 cents a pound for them.

Gonna use these on the front and get some bigger ones for the rear.

Since this is my everyday driver I'm gonna go the easiest/simplest route & mount them on top of the axle at the U bolts so it's not down more than 1 night. I will still remove all the extra leafs in my leaf springs.
 

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