kenny c
Well-known member
Be safe
Custom Mopar ????
- Thread starter Torchie
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Torchie
Well-known member
Always. Even if I don't look like I am.
Pulled this gem out from the shop rafters. I got this 49 Plymouth rear bumper for the custom truck build but never used it.
I've wondered if it would work on the Dodge being as the Dodge is a wider car then the Plymouth.
Sort of fits......[S
More of a arch to it then the Dodge and perhaps a bit short.
Thinking of a way that I could de-arch it with out destroying it. That would also push the ends out from the body a bit, I believe. Perhaps with a press?
I like these bumpers , plus it picks up some of the elements of the rocker trim.
We shall see.
Torchie
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Dr Crankenstein
Rocket Surgeon
I think it will twist and buckle before it flattens.
I like it the way it is. Make the pan match and walk away.
.
I like it the way it is. Make the pan match and walk away.
.
Torchie
Well-known member
I think it will twist and buckle before it flattens.
I like it the way it is. Make the pan match and walk away.
.
Lol. My concern isn’t the pan it’s how close the ends are to the rear fenders, Doc.
I agree with you that there could be twists and such given that this isn’t a 40’s type flat face only bumper. This a a heavy u channel shape.
I have another option that I will post up later.
Torchie
Skip
Well-known member
I am wondering if it is the same thought that is bouncing around in my head...
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- Nov 5, 2015
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If you stretch the upper and lower lip, it will not buckle or twist. I`m sure you can get it to fit nice and tight that way, but it will destroy the chrome. Using a press will probably destroy the chrome too...and the bumper.
Torchie
Well-known member
Check the link below and see, Skip.I am wondering if it is the same thought that is bouncing around in my head...
That would be some serious metal to stretch, dutch. I suspect a torch is involved.
[dddThis a thick/heavy bumper. Mostly sure how ever I do it it will ruin the chrome.
Here is a link to another option that still gives me the ribbed look.
[dddhttps://www.brizbumpers.com
Torchie
Bamamav
Well-known member
Here’s a wild idea........change the body notch to fit the bumper. What’s a little more cutting and welding, eh? That way, the chrome bumper stays virgin. Extend or make a new gravel pan to fit.[P[P[P
Torchie
Well-known member
Here’s a wild idea........change the body notch to fit the bumper. What’s a little more cutting and welding, eh? That way, the chrome bumper stays virgin. Extend or make a new gravel pan to fit.[P[P[P[/
Thanks Bama. Not wild at all . That will most likely happen wether I Use the bumper as is or de arch it . The wrap around ends on it are quite long which is why I used two 49 Plymouth front bumpers on the truck. In this case though I like the long wrap around.
I am considering not only moving the bumper inset on the fender but making them a bit more pronounced as well . Giving it a bit more of a custom look. I want it tucked in as close as I can get it.
At this point it’s still all imagineering as MAC likes to call it.
Thanks for all the response’s everyone.
Torchie
Dr Crankenstein
Rocket Surgeon
You could make a couple relief cuts and hide them with a plate frame.
.
.
Skip
Well-known member
This is what I was thinking. I see Torchie is onto it and then some. I kin'a' like Doc's suggestion, too. Pretty sneaky.
Torchie
Well-known member
LOL. I can always count on you, Good DR. [ddd
To elaborate a little bit more on my answer to Bama.....
In the first pic you can just see a bit of the stock Dodge Bumper ends.
The next 2 show the Plymouth bumper ends. Bear in mind that at this point the bumper is just laying on the gravel pan so the height is off.
Last pic show the Mopar gravel pan. Unlike Ford or GM this one has skirts which I believe were used to keep road debris from building up inside the bumper.
What my thought are is that this pan will get molded into the body. The bumper will get tucked in as close to the body as I can and then once I move the inset to match the bumper position I will build up the lip of the inset and mould that in as well.
All traditional custom touches.
All has yet to be revealed....
Torchie
[dddTo elaborate a little bit more on my answer to Bama.....
In the first pic you can just see a bit of the stock Dodge Bumper ends.
The next 2 show the Plymouth bumper ends. Bear in mind that at this point the bumper is just laying on the gravel pan so the height is off.
Last pic show the Mopar gravel pan. Unlike Ford or GM this one has skirts which I believe were used to keep road debris from building up inside the bumper.
What my thought are is that this pan will get molded into the body. The bumper will get tucked in as close to the body as I can and then once I move the inset to match the bumper position I will build up the lip of the inset and mould that in as well.
All traditional custom touches.
All has yet to be revealed....
Torchie
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DozerII
Well-known member
That is a really sharp looking bumper and the plan sounds solid., not sure if I missed it it do you have matching one for the front?
Torchie
Well-known member
Dozer.
The 49 Plymouth Bumpers are one of my favorite stock bumpers and have been a custom staple since first introduced.
All I have at this time is 2 rears. The re chromed one and one that could be generously called a core.
[dddI had 2 sets (One re chromed) when building the truck but due to the amount of wrap around on the corners I used a front one for the rear bumper on the truck.
I'm on the hunt for another front. The biggest problems with getting one off the internet is... A. Shipping costs. 2. Everyone that has them seems to think that the front and back are the same (Which they are not ) so I'm at the mercy of pics only when buying.
Time to put the bumper away and move on to other things....
Torchie
Torchie
Well-known member
Some days it's just not worth putting your fake leg on. Today has been one of those days.
I answered the question about the condition of the frame on the DS today.
Pic 1. Shows Jack stand under the frame.
Pic. 2. Shows jack stand inside the frame. Punched through it like tinfoil.
No lowering blocks. Just plain old weak springs with no shock. Under weight that rear spring is almost straight.
So it's back to square one on the frame. I will spend the rest of this winter stripping off the parts I need from the donor. Trying to sell what I don't need that has any value. And dong what body work I can to the custom body.
I don't deal in Shoulda/Woulda/Coulda so I won't even talk about not keeping the Olds.
Torchie
I answered the question about the condition of the frame on the DS today.
Pic 1. Shows Jack stand under the frame.
Pic. 2. Shows jack stand inside the frame. Punched through it like tinfoil.
No lowering blocks. Just plain old weak springs with no shock. Under weight that rear spring is almost straight.
So it's back to square one on the frame. I will spend the rest of this winter stripping off the parts I need from the donor. Trying to sell what I don't need that has any value. And dong what body work I can to the custom body.
I don't deal in Shoulda/Woulda/Coulda so I won't even talk about not keeping the Olds.
Torchie
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DozerII
Well-known member
Wow that really sucks Torchie
kenny c
Well-known member
Oh well. All is not lost. I'm sure there are parts you can use. May be time to start looking for a more modern donor frame again.[P[P[P
BillM
Well-known member
Sorry to hear about your luck Torchie. I'm sure you'll come up with a plan though.
Torchie
Well-known member
The frame being good was always a crap shoot Dozer. They are like body panels in so much as if you find a make car with a rusted out fender chances are you will find a lot of the same cars with the same rusted out fender.
Indeed Kenny. Not complaints about the donor car or the price especially looking at 49 Dodge Coronet part prices on places like e-bay.
This just points to why I don't go to the local casino Bill.
Most likely going back to a G body frame. Hoping to find one that's already had the body stripped out. I just can't let the junk build up on the property. Especially when it comes time to plow.
I found one but it's in Chicago.
Thanks for the comments.
Keep moving forward.
Torchie
Torchie
Well-known member
In keeping with my policy of doing something everyday on the project....
Broke out the sawzall and removed the gravel pan as well as the weather strip channel and the area beneath it.
I need all of this area ,plus the gravel pan for mine as it's a rust trap on every parts cars I have seen so far. Kind of like the frame. [ddd
I can bend up some simple channel for the weather strip but much like Doc's Chevy coupe I would have to do multiple bends to duplicate this area. Or do a series of pieces welded together. Like Doc did. Which is my back up plan.
So it's worth give this a sand blasting to see whats left to work with first.
I can also pilfer channel and possible the corners from the upper lip of the trunk opening.
Once this is all cleaned up and repaired I will cut mine out following the outer edge of the raised area and weld the donor one in.
Thanks for visiting....
Torchie
Broke out the sawzall and removed the gravel pan as well as the weather strip channel and the area beneath it.
I need all of this area ,plus the gravel pan for mine as it's a rust trap on every parts cars I have seen so far. Kind of like the frame.
[dddI can bend up some simple channel for the weather strip but much like Doc's Chevy coupe I would have to do multiple bends to duplicate this area. Or do a series of pieces welded together. Like Doc did. Which is my back up plan.
So it's worth give this a sand blasting to see whats left to work with first.
I can also pilfer channel and possible the corners from the upper lip of the trunk opening.
Once this is all cleaned up and repaired I will cut mine out following the outer edge of the raised area and weld the donor one in.
Thanks for visiting....
Torchie
