Jeep Engine Build

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can't tell from the pics of the ports, if you spray a little penetrating oil in there the aluminium won't stick to the carbide.

are you sure you don't want the big block in the Crosley, and shoot for some 10.10 et's?

Thanks for showing as interest in my project, bluenorther.

Nah, I don't want to go that quick anymore. More fun for me trying to squeeze performance out of the Jeep 6.

I have some single flute cutters that don't load up. I can't take the entire lump out because I'll grind through the top of the port. Already cut through one of them. Probably will take 4-5 hours to do the job.

The Big Block is ready to come out of the Bantam except for the bell housing bolts. Gotta take some of the floor out to get to them.

Finished the first coat of blue on the rear end.
 
Nothing too exciting. Final coat of blue on the rear end and assorted bracketry. Spent a couple hours grinding welds left over from the brackets I cut off the frame. Only a few hours more and that dirty job will be done.
The Big Block is all disconnected and ready to pull out of the Bantam. Odie just has to show up with the money.
 

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More chassis painting going on.. and on... and on.

While measuring for the Jeep engine install I discovered the pinion is offset two inches to the passenger side. With a 23" driveshaft that could create u joint bind. In reading and watching You Tube presentations I concluded it is best to install the engine and transmission 2" to the passenger side to maintain straight alignment. If I remember correctly, I ordered the rear end from Currie with the housing centered so it would look symmetric from the rear. Wrong move, apparently. This might be the cause of the ill handling the Crosley exhibited.
 

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More chassis painting going on.. and on... and on.

While measuring for the Jeep engine install I discovered the pinion is offset two inches to the passenger side. With a 23" driveshaft that could create u joint bind. In reading and watching You Tube presentations I concluded it is best to install the engine and transmission 2" to the passenger side to maintain straight alignment. If I remember correctly, I ordered the rear end from Currie with the housing centered so it would look symmetric from the rear. Wrong move, apparently. This might be the cause of the ill handling the Crosley exhibited.
Can you say, "Kardashian"? I knew you could. [ddd :D
 
I don't see how the pinion not being centered would cause it to handle bad. Most pinions aren't centered from the factory. Misaligned, I could see that.:confused:
 
I don't see how the pinion not being centered would cause it to handle bad. Most pinions aren't centered from the factory. Misaligned, I could see that.:confused:

Just speculation on my part. The left to right positioning of the pinion is 2 " off the centerline of the chassis and of the engine and trans. I haven't measured the angle (nor can I now that it is disassembled) but with the short driveshaft it is a pretty good angle. Combine that with the u joint having to work up and down and you have the u joint working at an angle in two planes. The Crosley started behaving badly at half track at over 100 mph where little errors can result in significant handling problems.

So far, that's the only thing I can find wrong with the chassis set up. I am learning a lot more about setting up a four bar rear suspension so when it all goes back together it should be square and true and adjusted properly.
 
I am learning a lot more about setting up a four bar rear suspension so when it all goes back together it should be square and true and adjusted properly.[/QUOTE]

Who said an ol' dog can't learn new tricks ;):D
I'm confident you will get it figured out bob...

[P[P
 
The frame is purty Bob.

I off set the engine/transmission on our Willys to match the set up that the Dakota donor had. Old Iron spotted it in one of the frame pics I posted and it is noticeable looking at the motor under the hood. But I can live with that if it all plays nicely together..

I just felt there was too many angles going on with the engine centered. Plus it gave us more badly needed room for the vacuum booster and steering. And We were able to use the fuel tank under it from the donor. It seems like it was all part of an engineering plan. It all made for a pretty easy build really.

I'll be watching as usual [cl[cl[P[P:cool::cool:
 
I've been told lots of late model cars, especially Mopars have the engine toward the passenger side. Form follows function, especially in a drag car. There's room to move the engine over because it is a straight six. Gives more room for steering, headers and intake. I heard from Tator (Terry & Lee and a member here) by email. His low 10 second drag car has the same 2" offset on the pinion, a centered engine and trans and a short drveshaft. So probably that isn't the cause of the poor half track handling the Crosley has.

More frame painting tonight.

Thanks for following along fellas.
 
And now for something completely different

The attached video is a car built by my long time friend Don Groff. This page isn't big enough to list all the innovative cars he has built. The car in the video is a quasi Indy car that is for the street. Don built everything including the chassis, body, engine, etc. The engine is two Toyota Supra 6 cylinders crashed together to create a V 12.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OVyw8uOY4wk
 
As mentioned earlier, I'm putting the engine and trans 2" toward the passenger side so they will be in line with the rear end pinion and driveshaft. Today I cut 2" out of the trans crossmember and driveshaft hoop crossmember, slid them to the right and welded the cut out sections in the other side. The diagonal floor braces have yet to be reworked.

Got the rear end and all the brackets painted and ready to reassemble.
 

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Your friend is some kind of genius, that engine is nothing short of incredible! I couldn't even wrap my head around the amount of engineering an fabricating skill needed to pull that off, he must have one heckuva machine shop.
 
Your friend is some kind of genius, that engine is nothing short of incredible! I couldn't even wrap my head around the amount of engineering an fabricating skill needed to pull that off, he must have one heckuva machine shop.

^^^^^X's 2 ^^^^^^
[P [P [P
Torchie
 
Your friend is some kind of genius, that engine is nothing short of incredible! I couldn't even wrap my head around the amount of engineering an fabricating skill needed to pull that off, he must have one heckuva machine shop.

He has a Bridgeport with digital beams and a manual lathe plus a lot of sheet metal forming equipment. All in his basement. He worked for Gould Battery Co. and did this stuff as a hobby. Don has narrowed axle housings for me almost for free. That is the kind of guy he is. I believe there isn't a design or engineering problem he cannot solve.

I've looked at his Indy type street rod in depth and sat in it. That was before he got it running. Took him a long time to sort out all the electronics.
 
The adapter arrived today. The bell housing part is carved from 5/8" thick steel plate. The big aluminum disc seen on the left is about an inch thick. It bolts to a Mopar/Jeep flex plate and to a GM torque converter. Heavy duty stuff made for serious off roading. It should handle the rigors of drag racing without a problem.

More painting on the frame today. Sore back, can't do much else.

Also... The car has 10 1/2" by 29 1/2" slicks on it. With 300 hp in the Jeep engine I don't need all that rubber. Probably an 8" slick 27" tall. Car sits really low on the tall tires so I'll have to do something to raise it. That will throw the 4 link geometry off. Ain't this fun?
 

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