My 40 Dodge Truck Build - Maybe a 41 LOL

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Very nice work on the door bottom. You even put some of the ribs back in. Cool.
There are several ways to go on the frame, no one way being clearly superior, in my opinion. Especially if you want a traditional look. Look at pics, go to shows. Ask the owners what they like or dislike about their set ups. Ask them what they used, how they built it. Guys like to explain what they did.
 
Thank you Skip, Torchie & Soltz.

Thanks Bob W...... not sure what you mean about the door ribs....I'm confused :eek:)

Don't be confused. I'm the one that's confused. I saw pics of patched door bottoms but it must have been on another thread.
 
Ahhhh easy with me I confuse very easily these days.

I do have 2 cut outs of the ribs from some donor doors....maybe that's what you saw. I think 3 or 4 ribs. I'm going to paint them a contrasting color and attach them with some fancy fasteners. Skull license plate bolts or pointy studs, something of the sort.

This what I'll be using and what you may have seen: (so your not crazy)[cl
 

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So some progress..... more questions lol. I loosely assembled my front end tonight, set the cross member on top and mocked up some 26" high plywood "tires". The cross member is about 4" above my engine rail. Couple pics below.

My spring set up is over the axle, not behind.

So I believe these are my options:

1) Raise the front Z (Z at the cab firewall) 4" but this will also raise my motor / drive shaft / tunnel ect up. Unless I can snuggle the motor down between those rails

2) Z or stack the engine rails in front of the motor / radiator. This will keep my motor low but might look like crap

3) Weld in a plate shaped like a upside down "T" and weld the cross member to that. That keeps my motor mounts low and allows me to still taper the leading 12" of the rails like the blue truck

Any idea's or thoughts?

Thanks much guys

I was hoping to taper the front edge of my rails like the blue frame below, that leaves out option 2
 

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Lousy Drawing to Help Explain

Maybe this will help....see lousy drawing below.

Not much of an artist as you can see, but thing it will help.
 

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I'm wracking my brain with this but think I'm getting somewhere....

First... I could give up an inch on my ride height

Secondly...The weight of the motor (331 Hemi) is going to load the spring some...maybe an inch or 1.5". I'm guessing.

That's 2.5"..... need another 1.5". That "T" sticking up 1.5" would be better than 4". 1.5" would also be easy enough to accomplish with a few pie cuts and bending the frame rail up and re-welding.

Not sure which process makes more sense.....

Whatdatink?
 
I measured the difference of height of the front of the frames, when I dropped in a flathead V-8 and it went down 2 1/4". That was with coil springs on twin I-beams. My Baby hemi dropped the frame about the same amount. Your 331 should be heavier, [unless you have aluminum heads].
Also, when you raise that crossmember that high, that raises the centre of the spring four inches so the heavily laden ends of the spring will hit the bottom of the frame at every bump. The bottom of the frame will be at least seven inches below the crossmember, and the squashed spring will want to be about four inches low.
What if you fabbed up a C-notch in the frame right where the 'T' is? You were going to make the 'T's anyhow so just make them more different.
This is only my opinion.
 
Good Morning Merc!

Thanks for your ideas. My 331 does have aluminum heads. I'll be picking up the motor today. I'm going to try to rig something up so I can lower the motor down while on the engine lift onto the top of my cross member to get a measurement of how much that spring will compress.

It looks to me that I will need a c-notch if I keep the frame at that level.

Thinking about this in my sleep..... lol, I may be able to change the level of my frame rails. I wanted them to be lower than my cab rockers and corners to protect my body work but I do have room to move them closer to the cab floor. I wanted to gain the extra 2 or so inches of foot well area but don't want to end up with not enough suspension travel. I could always weld in some sliders to protect my rockers.

I gota leave to pick up the motor.....I'll be back later today.

Thanks for your idea's

Couper
 
So I'm gona leave the frame at the level I planned on....

Gona pie cut the engine rails at the stack and bring the rails up on an angle to what I need. I'm thinking 2". I'm going to put the motor on the lift and gently lay her down while on the stand to get an idea of how much she'll compress that spring. Definitly need that C notch Merc.

So here she is.... 331 Vintage HEMI. Bored 60 over, 10:1 Pistons, ARP Studs, Rotating Assy Balanced, Isky Cam, Aluminum Hot Heads and other misc goodies. It's not sitting at the proper height...just rolled in on the engine stand. Builder says she's good for 600 HP??? That make sense to you guys? I yet have to get 2 carbs, distributor, starter, headers, pulleys an alternator, water cross over w thermostat housing and other small items. Of course suggestions welcome!

Time for bed... 10 hours of driving to pick her up today.
 

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Little Mock up for you. Motor at proper height and the original grill that I modify some.....the bottom of the grill will mirror the top for an oval look.
 

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