Bamamav's 1947 Lincoln Club Coupe build

Looks spic & span.

Two more pieces of the puzzle

A new pick and pull just opened up about 35 miles from me, so while the truck is in the shop I went down Friday and checked it out. Got a Saginaw power box off of a S10 as well as the shaft off a Cutlass. Box looks new except for being oily from a leaking line I suppose. Have got to R&R the Pittman arm toward the front for it to work right.





Wife spotted a yard sale and wanted to stop, so since she went with me to the yard, I figured make her happy. She didn't buy anything, but I did! Guy had a box of older tools, I started picking out a few, he told me I could have the whole box for $50. I dug through it, countered with a $40 offer, he accepted. I should have snapped a few pics but didn't think about it. The contents were mostly brand name tools:

New Vice Grips
New Vice Grip welding clamp
Kline linemans pliers
almost a complete set of Craftsman metric 3/8 drive deep well sockets, 10mm-17mm
several snap on, Craftsman, and Blue Point 1/2 drive sockets
A long handle Snap On 3/8 ratchet
a Snap on 3/8 drive pull handle
a Snap on 1/2 T bar drive
several 3/8 drive extensions, 3" up to 12"
several 1/2" drive extensions, 3" up to 12"
several 1/4" sockets, ratchets, and extensions, different brands
An ancient metal case orbital sander that need brushes, runs but weak
a new framing square
a new chalk box
and probably some things I forgot.

A good day!

Well that was a haul for $40

A mid week update?

Yep!


A mid week update........I need to go back to work!

Spent the better part of the day on the steering again. Here's the shortened shaft and column:



And it hooked up to the box. I know, the angle is not right, everything is still loose:



Here you can see the column drop bracket I fabbed up :



And a shot of the dash and new column tightened up and in place:

Different view



I've got a few ideas for the horn button later on.

Still lack the lower column support and taking the box back off to drill the final hole.

If the shaft between the steering column and the box doesn't work out, one from an Astro van with U-joints works perfectly. You can even salvage parts from the original rag-joint shaft to make it long enough. I found a piece of double-D shaft and made mine pretty.

Bamamav said:

Still have to work out some kind of idler for the accessory drive, or get a shorter belt:

Click to expand...

I have also de-EFI'd a late 5.0.

This photo is a couple years old, I have since cut off all the unnecessary bits of the brackets and deleted the clothes-peg, but the shorter belt wasn't a problem.

I can't remember the applications, but there were a few belts within the range of adjustment.




Quite a tidy engine without all the EFI gear piled on top:

Skip said:

If the shaft between the steering column and the box doesn't work out, one from an Astro van with U-joints works perfectly. You can even salvage parts from the original rag-joint shaft to make it long enough. I found a piece of double-D shaft and made mine pretty.

View attachment 130646

Click to expand...

I walked right by a Astro van the other day at the yard, looked at the shaft, and told my wife I wanted to get it after I found a box. Got carried away getting a few parts for her Expedition and I walked out and forgot to get that shaft!

I think the one I have is going to work. I was able to get the column and box pretty well lined up straight. I'm hoping if it's off a bit the rag joint will cover it. It steers easy, with no hard spots or bumping, so I think it's ok. Will check it again when the box is tightened up.

wendle, what did that engine come out of, the bracketry looks different than mine. My AC is where your power steering is, and your idler/tensioner is lower than mine.
I did away with the air pump on mine, and I think a shorter belt will work out fine.

Bamamav said:

wendle, what did that engine come out of, the bracketry looks different than mine. My AC is where your power steering is, and your idler/tensioner is lower than mine.
I did away with the air pump on mine, and I think a shorter belt will work out fine.

Click to expand...

I'm in Australia - it's out of a late 90's Ford Falcon.

I believe some US F-Trucks of the same vintage use the same setup.

wendle said:

I'm in Australia - it's out of a late 90's Ford Falcon.

I believe some US F-Trucks of the same vintage use the same setup.

Click to expand...

OK, that would explain the difference! Mine supposedly was from a Mustang, but I pulled it from a F100.

wendle said:

I have also de-EFI'd a late 5.0.

This photo is a couple years old, I have since cut off all the unnecessary bits of the brackets and deleted the clothes-peg, but the shorter belt wasn't a problem.

I can't remember the applications, but there were a few belts within the range of adjustment.




Quite a tidy engine without all the EFI gear piled on top:

Click to expand...

Nice! Cosmo looks like he approves.

endicott_jb said:

You can make your own HEI system Bama. All you need is a GM ignition module(like a 79 camaro), a high energy coil(94, 95 mustang), different plug wires, and set the gap differently on your plugs. I had that setup on my old 87 dodge ramcharger and it ran great.

Click to expand...

I did the same, used a Duraspark II dist. Easy to wire up and works great, plus no huge fugly chevy distributor.
I think the efi is from a crown vic sized car. They had a different intake, as did truck, and also Mustang. I used one of those lowers to build my twin carb on the rpu's 260.

Willowbilly3 said:

Nice! Cosmo looks like he approves.

Click to expand...

Cosmo has been the sole witness to a vast number of metalworking mistakes!

Box is bolted in today. Steering is smooth without drag link hooked up, still have that to do. Hope to build the lower column support box tomorrow. Then I get the fun task of wire brushing the firewall, frame,and inner fenders for new paint. After all that, I can test fit the new engine! [cl

It's getting there, one step at a time....

Bamamav said:

Box is bolted in today. Steering is smooth without drag link hooked up, still have that to do. Hope to build the lower column support box tomorrow. Then I get the fun task of wire brushing the firewall, frame,and inner fenders for new paint. After all that, I can test fit the new engine! [cl

It's getting there, one step at a time....

Click to expand...

Cool! Glad it is working. I had the original S-10 rag joint at first and it had a bad "bump" in it. I didn't have a straight line shot from the column to the steering box. The U-joints on the Astro Van shaft are clocked about 30 degrees out of phase, and it fixed the "bump" in my system. The three pieces are pretty much on three different plains. I got lucky.

Got the steering finished up today. Didn't even have to change the length of the drag link, it lined up perfect with the new box straight ahead. Got the outer cover in place on the firewall, ran out of screws. It will disappear when I paint the firewall, you won't even notice it.

Got the old mounts cut off this week, wire brushed everything, and painted. Gloss black firewall and side panels, flat black on the frame. Went flat on all of it to start with, but it was too drab, had to have some gloss in there! Got the truck out of the shop and got a load for Monday, so progress will slow again to Saturdays. Next is putting the trans on the engine and setting it in so I can start motor mounts.

You'll be goin back together with it before ya know it.

This is getting to be work.....

After taking the last two weekends off, got back on the car today. Spent 3 hours trying to get the transmission and motor mated up, it's still not right. I can't figure out what's going on, it acts like the converter isn't seated, but I felt it drop in two distinct times. Got to pull it apart again anyway, so I decided to sit it in the car. And that didn't work as planned, either. Took a little finessing, but got it in, just not where I wanted it.


Right side fits great



Front clears the cross member, but I wish it would go back about 3 inches more



Here's why it won't go back any farther, the factory welded in cross member. Trans pan is literally 1/4" to 1/2" from it.

And heres how the left side mount ended up, right in line with the steering box. Damn.




Plenty of room between trans pan and wishbone