I need help identifying this setup.

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Got Ya.....

sarge i sent you a pm with some links on the olds and the buick. never saw a small block caddie and the only small block pontiac is the 301. i guess the best way to compare the olds is like the big block chevy to the tall deck truck motor, the reg. big block intake will not fit the tall deck.

Thanks again for the info.....
 
As for me, I don't need a powerhouse as long as it runs out ok. Its not what I would have chosen, but its whats there so I'll try it. Just seems like more to go wrong to me, since I'm not that familiar. I've alwys has 350's/396's.
I got it to turn over yesterday after replacing the solenoid. Then pulled the carb for a little cleaning. What I dont get exactly is the cooler hoses. The one coming from the waterpump, that would usually go to the heater core goes to the back of the engine where it Y's. One going to the back of the base of the carb, the other going to the back of the engine. The port on the front of the manifold next to the thermo housing that I would normally think goes to the heater core, does not have a hose on it. There is also a nipple on the "front" of that carb base that does not have a hose. I 'm thinkin a hose should connect those two?? Although I don't need a heater to get it going, I am still puzzled where that come into this puzzle. Maybe in and back out to just befor the "Y"?

Thanks,
Perplexed in Spokane
 
I have a complete and original car with this engine in the backyard slated for restoration so can get any pics you need if you can take pics and description of what you are asking.
 
I may have muddied the water by asking about the heater hoses as well, but I don't care about that right now. I just want to see if this thing runs.
There is an open port (hose nipple) on the intake manifold beside the thermostat housing. And there is a nipple of the same size coming off the carb base, or more acuratley, the reservoure??? under the carb. It seems obvious, but I want confirmation that i should run a hose from the manifold to the carb base. I just don't fully understand this setup. It seems alien to me to run water under the carb. A quick look at that beautiful rebuild on page one will show you what I'm referring to, excepy there are plugs in the carb base where I have a nipple and a drain petcock.
If I'm wrong and you're laughin at me by now, I'll take my licks.
 
The picture in post #3 is actually a motor that I built for my NHRA stock eliminator car. I've gone 12.14 @ 109 mph in a 3650 lb. Firebird. #1 qualifier at the Arizona Nationals, top 10 qualifier at many National and Divisional NHRA races. Remember STOCK, as in no head porting, no aftermarket intake, no holley carb, even a stock lift cam. I've been working with these 301 engines for some time now, and like any other engine they work fine in the parameters that they are designed for. I've had lots of good luck with this style of motor. Lots of misconceptions out there as I read in this thread. I've lost a couple of engines over the years, but NEVER to the crank. It's the blocks that are the weak point. Pontiac took out 55 lbs out of the block to make it lighter, the block actually twisted and lifted the head both times I lost a motor (fyi, that has been resolved) Pontiac also took 19 lbs. from each head. People wanted the V8, but also wanted gas economy (this was right after the gas crisis) As for eating bearings.... well, that happened once, and it was caused by ME, and I ran it into detonation. I've run these motors with loose and tight bearing clearances, and only when detonation came into the picture did it have any effect on the bearings Any turbo motor will destroy itself in detonation, it's the nature of the beast. When you take a motor out of it's designed parameters there will be issues..... you don't take a BBF to 12,000 rpm, or SBC to 15,000 rpm? well, you will, but only once.:)
 

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